I found a seized up 8BA out of a truck (intake manifold has '8RT' on it) for pretty cheap and decided I'd try my hand at rebuilding it. I've got a 51 F1 with a tired 226 6 banger that I thought the 8BA would be a good replacement for.. Anyway, I've got the thing almost completely tore down, but have 2 questions.. First, the oil pump is stuck, stuck, stuck and so far has barely budged vertically even though the shaft & casing do rotate 360* pretty easily (large pipe wrench). I've built a 'mini-press' but that broke the top of the case casting, which then brought out the BFH since I didn't have anything to lose at that point. I've read on a couple threads that heating it would melt the sludge and the thing would pop right out. I've tried the plumbing propane torches and those don't seem to get it hot enough to loosen up anything.. I guess my next step is acetylene, but wonder if heating it up that hot would cause the metal in the block casting to become brittle and crack or if there were other negative effects that I need to be aware of.. ? Question #2: Cam bearings.. According to Ol' Ron @ Fordbarn.. flathead cam bearings are the best lubed and subject to the least amount of wear of any bearing ever made.. Do I leave them in the block for hot tanking and magnafluxing or have the machinists remove them? Thanks in advance for your help.. ! These forums are great and I'd never have gotten as far as I have with this without them (those valves were a bitch!) Anyway.. I must have the bug pretty bad as I find myself spending a lot of time scouring regional CL listings for things like merc cranks and more flatheads!
Cam bearings...most but not all hot tanks will kill them. Ask. There isn't anything to clean behind them if your machinest's tank doesn'r eat soft metals. I would press them out with my handy KRW cam bearing set, after marking them for position and orientation, but you likely don't have one of those. I think some of the parts stores will lend the hammer drive types... Joblot has the bearings for around $30.
I would recommend a pressure test in addition too magnaflux. Since your engine was stuck it provides cheap insurance of cracks that are not visible. I just built a 59A and took the advice regarding pressure testing from a thread I read here. My block was in great shape and tested good but since the rebuilding expenses add up fast I'm glad that we verified the block first.
when I did an 8BA last year, shop had a great hot tank (Dave50 on the HAMB) and then we did magnaflux and a air drop test. You're gonna have considerable money in the motor to do it right, so make sure you have a good block. We had a buddy who did a 59AB, had it all assembled in the car, went to fill cooling system and water ran out of one of the exhaust ports. That kind of crack may not be found with magnaflux, hence the drop test.
On the pressure test...think about the exhaust passages hidden inside there. Magnaflux is useless because you can't see in there! Pressure completes the picture.
Poof! Alas, poor zinc... In myex perience, machinests also tend to remove and lose anything that is not part of the casting...take out the vent stack and the clipped-in baffles along floor of valley so they don't get a chance! Front plug in oil gallery, rear plate over oil pump drive, etc.
I was thinking that rear main retainer didn't look to be part of the casting, good call! vent stack, oil gallery plug, baffles, rear plate cover, check, check, check, check...
Just as a thread closer here, I finally got the oil pump out last summer. I ended up prying it up a little from the small end with a crowbar and some small wood blocks leveraged against and to protect the block casting. It moved about an 2" and stuck again. Shining a light into the cavity from the other side, I could see pieces of the shattered oil pump casting lodged in the passageway next to the pump. Once those were removed, the pump slid right out.. but now need new pump. Live & learn... Block is now thermal cleaned and at the machine shop awaiting delivery of some 3 ring Egge .125 oversized pistons and boring.. Assembling parts now, new water pumps, new radiator, considering putting a PCV valve in as opposed to the original down draft tube. Also a dual 94 carb setup...
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