The baby Lincoln is basicly the same as the bronco, and the brakes are junk for racing. Good luck finding rebuild parts for those calipers. If your still thinking GM, find a 12 bolt and use the c-clip eliminators on the axles. But finding a 12 bolt set up for leaf springs is going to bring big bank. Have fun fighting the camaro guys for one.
8.2 10bolt will ****ter with a 4speed, I ****tered one with a 300hp 350cu 4speed and 3.08 rear gear on a 295/50/15 street tire, in a gutted light straight axle car. Go with a 9in. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Thanks for the reply What gears for 9in would be = to 3:42 Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
They make a 3.70 ratio which is real close and I think Richmond Gear makes a 3.75 ratio, 3.70 would be good with a taller rear tire and the 4speed, if you,run a shorter rear tire you might consider a 3.50 ratio, heres a 3.70 ratio gives you idea of the price for a new ring & pinion: http://www.speedwaymotors.com/9-Inch-Ford-Ring-and-Pinion-370-Gear-Ratio,32507.html Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
An 8.8 out of an Explorer will probably work too, but won't have a drop out center. Most come with a 73.73 traction lock, although 3.50 or 4.11 are out there. They are narrow, albeit perhaps not traditional
What taller tire size u think for 3:70 but what rpm u think it would run at 70 with the Muncie ****** Have 327 with 375 hp Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
In fourth gear with your muncie you'll have 1 to 1 ratio, as saltflats said a 8 3/4 would be a good choice too if you can find one, it does eat less horsepower. I used a 8.8 out of a 87 to 93 Mustang 5.0 in my car. I used Drums off a 5 lug Ranger from a U-Pull-It yard and a 31spline trac lok out of a 98 Ford Explorer less than a $100.00 for the drums and 31spl trac lok, bought Moser 31 spline 5lug axles stock lenght for a 87 to 93 Mustang $220.00 shipped to my door on sale, my aluminum slot rims are uni-lug, so I didn't have to change rims and my quarters are radiused, so the 3/4in. difference didn't matter, as the car is a g***er. I bought the stock Mustang 8.8 from a bud for $50, re-used the 3.27 ring & pinion from the stock rear, new seals and crush sleeve and pinion nut, and axle bearings and gear oil with friction modifier, the rear is 3/4 inch wider per side vs. the Nova's stock rear which is 57.75 vs the Mustang's 87 to 93 which is 59.25 inches wide, the 8.8's pinion is a hair bigger than a 12bolt,Carcraft had a good article about the 8.8, and with the 31spline Moser axles it will take some serious abuse, there are a few rearend covers/girdles that when bolted to the 8.8 allows it to look like a lot like a 12bolt, they don't eat horsepower like a 9in does. If traditional is what your after then a 9in or the 8 3/4 are some of the acceptable choices, along with the big Pontiac rear. I build my stuff on a tight budget, so I learned what to use from the junkyard, people mistake this 8.8 for a high dollar 12bolt all the time, what they don't know won't hurt them, lol. Oh I sold the 28spline stock posi to another friend out of the Mustang's rear for $50, ended up with the housing and ring and pinion for free, Tractor Supply has heavy duty spring perches for 5000pd trailer axles for $10 a pair, once you cut the factory four link brackets off, the 5000pd spring perches fit the 8.8 Mustang housing like a glove and fit the locater pins on the leaf springs. You can order axles with the Chevrolet lug pattern for extra money and redrill the Ranger drums for the Chevy lug pattern if thats a concern. It's a great strong rearend that can be built very reasonable if you don't mind U-Pull-Yards and checking your local craigslist and websites, I got a little under $550.00 in this rearend with good 31spl axles, Posi, and Girdled, I've beat the snot out of it for 3500 miles already without a hickup, and I didn't have to shorten my driveshaft, I used the rear pinion flange off a Mustang driveshaft and a hybrid u-joint from Napa and the Mustang 8.8's pinion is centered so no offset problems to worry about. I am putting my aluminum headed 420hp 406cu and Super T10 in it soon and i'm not worried about breaking it, many Mustangs have been into the lo 9sec, high 8 sec range in the quarter mile with this rear with good 31spl axles, the Mustang housing has cast in bosses on the top for the top control arm bushings, I cut them off with a sawzall with a good 18tpi metal blade, clean the edges up and you'd never know they were there. Once you do that they look a lot like a 12 bolt Chevy rear with the right rear cover. I had a friend jig the housing up and weld the tubes to the center housing so I didn't have to worry about twisting the axle tubes by breaking the factory spotwelds.So really it is all up to what you want to spend and how traditional it has to be for you to be happy. Here is a good website for you to play around with, using tire size, gear ratio and rpm to see what gear you might want to run: http://www.ringpinion.com/Calculators/Calc_RPM.aspx Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A caution on the 12 bolts. There is a car and truck 12 bolt. The truck 12 bolt has 12 spline axels and that severely limits your choice of limited slip differentials. Avoid the truck unit.
There is a reason 9inch is the most popular rear end. Also, probably more gear ratios for it than any other rear end around. Easy to work on. If a lot of chevy guys are using them that should tell you something, a lot of chevy people would rather die than use a ford part!
Really, how much h.p. is one going to loose using a mopar over a Ford? Has it been proven on a dyno? The strength of a Ford IS proven. And like mentioned above, there is a ton of gears available.
Here is a article that shows difference between a 12bolt, Dana 60 and a 9 in. With Dyno results, not enough difference that I would worry on a street car, but if you need every bit of power you can get trying to set a record drag racing then maybe there is something there to sway your decision: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0806_chevy_chevelle_rear_axle_swap/viewall.html Why I went with the 8.8, I can build one way cheaper and the complete ***y is about 50 pounds lighter than a 9 in., in a light car with not a lot motor it makes a difference and once you upgrade the axles they are plenty strong, where I live you can buy them dirt cheap. Good article on Ford 8.8's: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_ford_8_8_rear_end/viewall.html Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
you can break anything we went from a 12 bolt to a 9" to a dana 60 in our ot racer before we stopped breaking axles but in your case use what you have and 3.55 gears go to after market axles and c-clip eliminators and you shouldn't have problems we ran a nhra legal blue printed 350 sbc with a 50lbs flywheel 9" x 29" slicks for 4 seasons and they only problem we had was oil seeping between the tubes and the case where the factory plug welds are, we welded the tubes to the case and no further problems
If your breaking a well built 9 inch you must be pulling some horsepower!! I have one set up for 1200hp with no problems.
I've had good luck with old used Ford gears, but you have to make sure they look nice before you buy. Usually priced around $50-75 a set.
I think I'm just going to change gear set in the ten bolt for now but what brand is good to get? Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
A lot that I read about richmen gears people say the are loud but strong Can't find anything about moser gears if they any good Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
moser is like currie build and sell axles and diffs and parts Richmond gears are ok you need street not drag or circle gears it was the weight of the wheel and the cold weather that broke them oval track late model on ice pulled the front wheels coming out of the corner.
to help figure out what gears to use search on a site like project33.com and click on calculator. a low buck 9" is pretty scarce around my part of the world. search kevingstang.com. what percentage of time going to drive on the street vs strip? street use in town only, or some freeway travels? how deep is your wallet?
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