I did a total rebuild of my 97's. I removed the emulsion tubes with the removal tool from Vintage Speed. Can anyone tell me how to put the tubes back in place so that they will not leak. One of the tubes seems to not be seated tight enough and gas is dripping into the ventury. Any suggestions or help would be appreciated.
Dripping while running or sitting? These are held in place by tightening the jets. Dont tighting too much as youll squish the holes in the tube shut.
They don't really seal anywhere and shouldn't be able to drip normally. First, check your fuel level (not the float level). I posted something on this maybe 10 days ago. If fuel level is not too high under the carb's normal operating pump pressure, pull the tube, make sure all of its holes are clear, and check the air bleed nole in carb casting within the bore on top of the casting that holds the tube. Also check idle bleed hole next to the idle jet. Maybe you have a syphon from plugged air bleeds.
I tried to answer your Email, but we're having network difficulties here and I don't think my screed went out. If your fuel level is right the gas shouldn't be able to come out there at the level of airflow available at idle. If the various air bleeds are open, syphoning should not be possible. You mentioned that you had (presumably repro) aluminum tubes in the guilty carb, and something you said suggested the flow was AROUND the tube where it emerges, not through the usual aperture. Is that a correct interpretation? If so, my thought is that the strange tube is undersized or otherwise incorrect and is allowing flow around it, possibly powered by the idle airflow through the bleed hole...and that's a genuine wild guess. So, first check air bleeds in tube and main casting and find out where fuel level is--then perhaps swap out that tube with the good carb and see what happens. I found what I posted on fuel level, and here it is: The preliminary setting should be as stated, down around 1/4-5/16". Note the PRELIMINARY--Stromberg and the Ford rebuild info on this both call for setting by GAS level, not float level. Unlike the later carbs, the Stromberg's float valve setup was considered too weak and flaky to produce a consistent fuel level result from a particular float level. Ford set them after rebuild on a fixture under stock fuel pump pressure, which would be easy to do if you have electic pump. If you have good fire and health insurance, you could try the old timer's way of running the engine with tops off the carbs, or build a clear tubing device to screw into the lower jet port so you can read level in the tubing. This will read a bit high due to capillary action in the tube. The tubes sold for Model A Zenith fit those threads, or just drill and solder an extra plug for a tube nipple. You can also just measure after stopping engine, but who knows... Oh, yeah, numbers... FUEL level should be 15/32"-1/2" from edge of float bowl, measured away from the edge. Ford used a simple go-nogo gauge which you could easily make: One prong each for the two numbers, one should just touch fuel surface, other should be dry with the baseline of gauge bridging the bowl. Neither Stromberg nor Ford even gave a preliminary float setting--I guess they assumed normal stack up of dimensions with genuine parts would allow carb to function well enough to move on to fuel setting. The kits give a float setting because they have to give the poor customer something he can comprehend, I guess. Remember, the carb is now 65 years old and has been hammered on by generations of mechanics, hot rodders, and idiots, probably is made of mixed parts from several rebuildings, and likely has at least some damaged parts and some off spec repro parts. You may have to tinker the level a bit to make your particular carb happy.
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