Because they are torque to yield bolts they don’t have the same elasticity when you reuse them. Different than the old stuff we are used to. It has nothing to do with tightening just enough or strength, torque to yield is way more accurate clamping force across all the fasteners, traditional torquing results in widely different clamping loads.
The angle of rotation is based upon the pitch of the thread that determines the overall stretch. Go beyond that, game over for sure in regards of reusing them. So, how far did the prior installer twist those bolts is the real question.
Tons of reused headbolts on boosted LS engines out there. I bought new GM TTY head bolts, but ended up getting a deal on some ARP head studs right before I was assembling the long block, so I went with those for a little more assurance.
There are reusable ARP head bolts available, studs are also a popular option. I did the low buck method just to see if it works, and so far it is doing fine, even with boost. Working with the LS platform is just so different than a SB or BB chevy as far as wear items or overall wear of the parts. I am doing a cam swap in a 6.0 today with close to 200k miles, original lifters, original pushrods, even the timing set is in excellent condition and not getting replaced. Engine was taken care of and nothing shows wear. New cam, springs, and a new front cam retainer plate ( has the oil galley seals on it so good to replace). That's it. Even the timing cover seals could be reused if you wanted but I am putting in new. Stuff I would never dream of doing on an older engine with even 100k miles.
I found scuffing on about half the tops of the pushrods and in the rocker cups, and significant odd wear on the valve stem tips, and some of the rocker tips. I got the ends of the valves ground, and ordered new rockers, and already had a set of 7.400 pushrods from another project. I did reuse the timing sprockets, but put in a new chain. Old used lifters and trays on the new cam. The cam bearings looked nice, we'll see how they do. I didn't open up the oil pump, just put it back on.
A new Melling M295 pump is cheap and easy while you're in there, but not neccesarily neccesary. I do like to use the aftermarket oil pickup tube retainer clip for peace of mind (Melling M29500)
This sounds like such a fun project. I have a strong 5.3 with a "stage II cam" in an Avalanche that has serious frame rot. The truck is awaiting parts salvage. With parts stacking up from replacing parts on important projects, I have a complete drive train for a project now. I was thinking maybe I could join Jim on the quest to a low buck project if I can get the 2 under way completed. Would it count if I dropped the 5.3 with turbos in the 81 vette? I have begun to understand why everyone keeps saying put an LS in it. As kids we would put as much HP in the cars as we could with our limited budgets. And LS engines seem affordable (don't want to call them cheap) and they can make some serious HP if only for the short haul. Keep building Jim. Maybe start doing build videos and grow a following. Some of those people make serious project money from viewers watching. And we'd all be able to say we knew Jim when.
thanks I've though about making videos, but it's too much work, and I don't need the money...and I'm not into "sponsorship" which is what many of the videos turn in to
Did you find the football like looking wear on the tops of the pushrods? That seems to be the most common wear pattern, had 3 on my last engine, replaced with good used pushrod and rocker arms.
Did you catch Freiburger's video yesterday? I liked what he and Finn said about starting up on YouTube doing car stuff. They essentially said it's really hard to be successful and you're unlikely to succeed because the market is saturated and the costs are high. Personally I'd rather wrench on my own crap without having to document it all. Turning hobby time into a job sounds awful to me.
heh...me too! been tinkering with stuff...seeing how it all fits together, where lines go, where wires go, how to make the exhaust crossover, mount the alternator, etc.
Move the o2 sensor to the downpipe and plug that hole in the log manifold. I literally just had a conversation about this last night with my friend that is a Holley tuning guru.
U put that O2 in the down pipe better never leak any oil from turbo; will lean engine to massive blow. Would love little more info from Holley tuner
yeah, I was wondering about that. but my plan for the "downpipe" is going to be an up pipe, with a stack flap on it, and a 2" stock exhaust Teed off it. Wonder where the sensor should go, right after the turbo on the big pipe (1), or in the smaller pipe (2) that feeds the muffler? I guess I have a little while to figure that out.
Figure out what which way you are going to go as far as controls. If you are buying a Holley Teminator system see what inputs they want to make it work. There are so many people using the Holley you will find what you need very easily. I am using a factory PCM so I am running 3 O2 sensors, narrow bands on each bank and a wide band in the down pipe for tuning the VE tables while in open loop. The wide band will never be used as a PCM input, it is just a data collector for tuning. Once back in closed loop after my tables are set then I can use the narrow bands to control fueling when out of boost. The Holley system is much easier to work with for boost, I am only not using it because I plan on multiple turbo builds and I want to learn to do the controls myself with factory hardware. Lots of info out there, I studied up for weeks before I got going and still lots more to learn. This stuff is super common, trick is to figure out what works and will last more than 3 times around the block LOL. Good luck!
been busy. The engine is together, the transmission is back together, finished welding the motor mount brackets, dropped it in. spent some time exploring the intercooler location and plumbing options. Might be able to trim the middle/bottom out of the bumper, and mount it kind of below/behind the bumper. The drive shaft I have left over from Plan II, before I added the GV to it, is 4 inches too short to fit Cheep. But the driveshaft in my truck behind the GV is exactly the right length! it's also 1350 joints at both ends, so it should bolt right in. I was planning to take the GV out of the truck, anyways...the control system died, and I don't really ever drive it very far from home any more, so doesn't need OD. I kind of want to put the GV in Cheep, but that would make it too valuable (and nice) the new front wheels/tires also look too nice, need to get it driving and go off road a bit to get them dirty? also now that the engine is back in, I can set the pinion angle on the rear end, weld the perches, and finish making the traction bars, put the axles and brakes back on, etc.
Come drive a couple of laps around my block - Unimproved, rocky dirt roads - It will quickly supply the dirt and test all the welds... Russ
Jim, I´don´t know you personally , but I´ll go out on a limb and say that procastinating is none of your habits... you must be working at Mach 2 or warp speed...I have nothing else to contribute as I know nothing about turbo chargers and fuel injections, so I´ll just keep sitting in my corner and watch.
thanks! now things are moving along pretty well. Oldest son visited today, we worked on a few more things...got the rear end brackets tacked in place, ready to weld it up. I'm considering welding the tubes to the center. I've read/seen/heard lots of ways to do it. I think it apparently works to just do it with MIG, using some preheat and insulation to slow cooling. Just have to get it clean clean clean first. after pulling the rear end, set the car on stands at the predicted ride height and rolled the back tire into place. It sits up proud, eh? put some gages in, decided they'd be OK out in the weather. working on the cold side plumbing. Cutting tubes to length with a hack saw, and rolling a new bead on the end with a cheap bead roller made for the job. Also started a to do list, the cardboard sheet on the windshield. It's two columns, almost out of room, so better get busy!
Yeah, most recommendations with that log manifold say 4"-12" from the turbo works best. There are some folks who put the o2 in the supplied hole on the log manifold and they say it's fine, but that would cause a false rich reading due to the pressure buildup pre turbo because the o2 sensor is not pressure compensating.
No, the engine won't lean out and blow up from a compressor oil leak, nor a bad/dirty/missing o2 sensor. If the o2 were to go bad or get dirty the ECU goes into open loop, just like it normally does when starting up cold.
thanks, I'll probably put it at the beginning of the up bend on the 4" tube. Wastegates are also a bit confusing. My current thinking is to have it mounted on the crossover kind of near the starter, so it is set up to bleed off pressure from the driver side manifold. Do you see any issues with this? I know there are a lot of competing ideas. I guess the important thing is that it works well to control boost pressure, which is hard to know until you get it running and see what it does.
As long as the wastegate placement it in a "priority" position, it should be good to go. Basically when a wastegate is too small, or placed in a position where it doesn't get directional flow dead heading against it, it won't function as intended, meaning the springs won't be as accurate, and supplying dome pressure to control boost will spend more time compensating for the bad placement or wrong size, than actually controlling boost. Basically it'd be fighting itself, open/close/open/close, etc etc. Placing it in the curve of a bend, or kinda like a "Y" merge will allow it to operate as it should and easier to control using the wastegate springs, or additonal dome pressure. What you have drawn will work fine as long as it's in the bend, and not a straight "tee" off the crossover pipe. Many of the cheaper aftermarket turbo kits put the WG in the crossover at a "tee", and it works, but it's not optimal. Since you're making it from scratch, make it right. Atleast that's how my brain is working this out in my build. The only concern I have is that when using a single turbo with the wastegate in the crossover, the wastegate is only controlling 1 bank of the engine's exhaust flow. Again, it works, but is it impaired by being in this position? I don't know. I'm just trying to do a ghetto garage version of racecar shit. FWIW, I'm cutting the T4 flange off my log manifold and welding the 90-degree adapter I have (it moves the turbo over for AC Compressor clearance, Clarence) directly to the log manifold. Since that adapter has a 90 bend in it, I'll install the wastegate on the outer edge of that bend, facing straight up.
The Jalopy Journal
