I have window regulators greased and ready for use. Whatcha think, Blue plexi? All windows except windshield?
personally, I would go with glass and if you want the side windows and rear windows blue, then use blue tint film.
Tuff call between the two, the blue plexi is the look, but function says glass for me. AND, eventually that plexi is gonna scratch and the glass will always look good. How about glass with blue tint???
I've gotta get in line and say that transformation is nothing short of amazing.You done yourself proud- talk about dedication! Holy Smoke! .If it runs as good as it looks, you're gonna be kickin' some serious ass at the strip! Congratulations on your Masterpiece. Mike from Mass.
Or maybe no blue, just clear? Keep it somewhat stock? Clear glass (factory tint)is really my number 1 choice, on my cars anyway, especially if your gonna drive it on the street, and great visibility at the track if you end up doing any night time racing too!
My report from Mark Engle and my 392: Good Morning Jeff, Hey I didn't get much done yesterday except degree the cam and decide to replace the front cover seal. The machine shop called me and said we have 4 bent exhaust valves and 1 bent intake. The intake valves are old stock steel (not stainless) so I OK'd him to get us a new set to start with. I tried to instal the cam, but the cam was too tight, so I had to measure it against the old one, and polished the journals in the lathe, re cleaned it and installed the cam. The bolt and washer to hold the gear drive hub on the cam was bunk so I re-machined a new allen bolt and made a washer custom to make this all work. Lastly I checked bearing clearance, .004" and ring end gap .030" top steel ring and .026" second iron ring, and installed #1 piston. Today I plan on timing the cam and getting the front cover on and the other 7 pistons installed. Keep Smiling, Mark Engle
Not much to report on the Willys, I brought some parts to a chrome shop, WOW they are expensive!! Mark Engle said I have too much bearing clearance on the connecting rods. .004 .005" measured, so he ordered some -.001" H bearings where I only have P bearings now. With new aluminum rods I want to be on the loose side which is .003-.004" planning on them closing up when they get hot.
Aluminum expands when it gets hot. Ron Shaver (himself) told me on brand new (Aluminum) rods, to run them wider because as they grow outward and inward to have an extra thou of clearance for this phenomenon. Ron worked with Bill Miller trying to make aluminum rods work in the sprint cars years back, ran hundred of hours of dyno testing and ran thousands of laps at the races. We are also going to run 50W racing Valvoline or Lucas for oil school bearing clearance film filling strength. So I think we are good, the pistons are down in the hole, I ordered .051 gaskets too for a little de-compression and more clearance for all considerations. We are good, and I hope to assemble the heads today, then waiting for head gaskets, and rockers to keep moving. Mark
Drumyn29, Whose bearings are you using? I'm working on a blown 392 street motor right now that's having a low oil pressure problem at warm temp's. Still not quite sure what's going on with it, it sat for a long time (like 10 years), then the previous owner got it out and cleaned up to sell. It was good when I got it, but the hot oil pressure has gradually dropped off over a season of running. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Good Morning, Hey there are many things that can contribute to loss of oil pressure. Worn bearings or too much clearance is one, worn out oil pump, all the moving parts in the engine (if they are worn) can lose oil pressure. We are using Clevite standard bearings, and we have big block chevy size rods and bearings in our engine. I would suggest 50W racing oil and see what the oil pressure does, most likely something is going away, (wearing out) thus oil pressure dropping off over a season. So better check it and fix it before it really cost you repair it. Mark Engle
The Jalopy Journal
