Ok, I've been saving and waiting for the right A coupe to show up. I found it and will be trying to grab it next week. It's a bone stock 30 model. It's all there except for back fenders, that I don't care about. The plan is to go through the running gear (brakes, steering etc). Try to get the banger running and play with it while I build up my 50 merc flathead. I'm going to get a dropped axle from Sid or okie joe to the tune of 4" and pull a couple leaves from the rear. I'm not going to split the bones, I don't want to slam it. Keeping the mechanical brakes. Looking to get a 40's salt look with a 5 inch chop and minor suspension drop. 16 inch Steelies or wires and bias ply firestones. Questions are, will my merc bolt up to the banger*******,or will the three speed ford trans I have work on the merc. And what all will I need to make them work together. Check this thread out. http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/identfy-my-trans-clutch-and-bellhousing.759346/ Going to build the merc to handle 2-2's so I think the banjo will live. I'll go through it too. All guidance will be greatly appreciated. This is new territory for me. Thanks Dustin
i have a 30 coupe and did my car in a 40's hotrod style. no chop..litterly just ordered a new front drop axle and spring and a T spring in the**** end. i was going to put the flattie in it but chose to hop up a "30" 4 banger...everything but the OHV. it hauls**** (for a 84 year old car) enjoy the build......
You can run the mechanical brakes if they are in good condition, I still have them on my 30 pickup with a warmed over banger and can lock up all 4 wheels. I wouldn't run them with the flathead since you will be running at higher speeds. My avatar is flathead powered and I'm building a 30 coupe with an 8BA flathead. The stock rearend will work with the flathead as long as you aren't too rough on it, I ran one in my avatar and am using one in the 30 with the flathead. The trans you have won't work with the closed drive rearend, you need to find a truck adapter from a early 50's pickup and 36 - 39 trans to use the banjo rearend. Sacramento Vintage Ford has the parts to run stock wishbone and clutch and brake pedals with the V8 trans. Vern Tardel has a good book on how to build a V8 A, might want to check it out for information.
You will probably go back and forth a couple of times before you decide what you will finally do but since you mentioned mechanical brakes and steelies I wanted to be sure you knew you will need an adapter. I have heard you can also solve the problem with a little bringing and/or machining but I have also heard that his approach won't work. They are both 5 on 5 1/5 but the earlier drums had a mounting surface that was at two different levels. Just bolting the wheel on CAN RESULT IN A SITUATION WHERE THE WHEEL MAY COME OFF OF THE CAR! You can see what I am talking about at: http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/40-ford-wheels-on-a-model-a.750368/#post-8330045 You can safely run wire wheels through 1935 (including the after market Kelsey wheels that I like) on the stock mechanical brake drums. If you later go to hydraulic brakes and still use the wire wheels you will need a different adapter. Charlie Stephens
If you can post several detailed pictures of the car BEFORE you buy it you might get some valuable comments. Set you camera on the lowest resolution and they will be easy to post. As an alternative set the resolution for the camera on high and then change them to low resolution using image processing software such as iPhoto on a MAC. The most important suggestion I can make is to be sure the paperwork is clean. The seller should be able to show you where the number on the paperwork matches the number on the car. A number on a home made plate will not cut it with DMV. The number should be factory stamped on the engine (if it hasn't been registered for several years) or an an official plate installed by the DMV. Another location for the serial number is on the top of the left frame rail (under the body). Yes, you will have to lift the body to see it and DMV may ask you to do that. If you don't think this is important search here and on ford barn under "VIN". If the numbers don't match I would walk away from the deal but that is just me. Good luck, and I would leave the banger in for a while. Charlie Stephens
Here's the car. It's 18 hours away so I'll have to buy it sight unseen and have to trust the guy. They post in the classifieds here so I think they're honest and you get what they say it is. http://www.rufusranch.com/30coupe15.htm Also scouring the hamb adds
I would think hard before trying to use the original transmission behind your V8. You,ll have a totally unsyncroed box. Slow to shift and built originally for 40 hp. Also I have found from experience that the original rear is great for 40 Hp but iffy when you up the power. Just my 2 cents Les Bliss
I think you would be much better buying a car close enough to you that you could see it in person. The price (to which you still need to add shipping) seems a little high for a coupe in that condition. Keep looking but look closer to home. Try contacting the local Model A clubs and see if they will put a wanted ad in their newsletter. The national clubs are at modelaford.org and mafca.com. Charlie Stephens
Awesome thanks for all the info. I was thinking $4500 on that car. I'll check around with the local guys and see what's up. They buy and sell a lot between them selves and the carsnever hit the market. Thanks for the trans advise as well. I'm thinking I may put a T-5 in and open conversion on the banjo for drivability. I don't want a power house but I want to drive it. A LOT.
If I was going to drive it a lot I would forget the open drive conversion on the stock rear end and use something like a Bronco rear end. Although the stock rear end would probably hold up it would definitely be a weak point. The banjos sure look nice use the early cars but I think I would update the rear end. Charlie Stephens
Is there a way to not split the bones and use a T-5? I really like way the cars look with the wishbones up underneath. This is what I'm after
Are there no ways to "beef" up a banjo. I wouldn't be hard on it and the merc will only have around 120-150 horse maybe.
Not that bad of a start for a project but I'd agree with getting in with the local Model A guys as one may have what he sees as a "parts car" that is perfect for what you want. I just drove through West Texas a week ago and 18 hrs from Amarillo is a hell of a long ways in Texas mph.
I think you are right on the edge (a lot depends on your definition of "I wouldn't be hard on it") and I must admit I don't have enough experience in the area to comment. There were a lot of cars driven with the combination you propose. There are some things you can do but you still have the weak point of no support on the end of the pinion gear (this support to the end of the pinion gear was added in late '32). Probably be a good topic for a new post with a****le that would attract attention to the exact question. My thought was that by the time you go to the trouble to convert a stock Model A rear end to open drive and then install it with support bars (since you no longer have the torque tube) you might as well go with a late rear end. If you were going to retain the closed drive line by using an early Ford transmission I would probably lean the other way and say to run the stock rear end. I would like to see what other people say on the topic. Charlie Stephens
As far as the rear end goes, you can run it with a flathead. BUT you have to take it easy. I speak from experience, I ran one in a '28 pickup. It ran fine with street tires but then I got real smart and put cheater slicks on it. I broke a couple of axles and a wide****ortment of axle keys. Then one day, KABOOM.
I would use flat V8, 39 trans and rear. I would swap the axle tubes from side to side and run the spring in front of the axle using a T spring and shorten the torque tube. This should give you a durable running gear unless you like to rev it up and side step the clutch. As for using an unsplit wishbone you can use a 32-34 as they are longer and will mount to the trans mount. I am working on a 28 Sport Coupe and we are using a Daggles frame and X-member flat V8, C4 trans, 8" rear. The X-member stiffens the frame a lot. Jim Ford
Check this out for your T5 swap. The kit used comes with everything needed to just about bolt in the new trans without anything else needed. http://lainefamily.com/ModelAFiles/ModelAT5.htm
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