I am going to install an A/F meter for tuning and then possibly keeping it installed for the long term. My question is, what A/F meter do I want? I know of the ”Wide Band” meter but there are others as well, it gets confusing.
I’ve been using this one for the last 8-10 years. I’ve even used leaded fuel with it, which you’re not supposed to do and it hasn’t had any effect so far. https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=L&ai..._jUyvySAxU1ODQIHZ87HsIQ5bgDKAB6BAgLEBU&adurl=.
I use the same one on an OT vehicle. No issues with it. There are wideband and narrowband O2 sensors. If you want to do tuning with it, get a wideband sensor and gauge,
I find myself starring at the gauge more than anything else when going for a drive. I cringe when I first accelerate uphill and the gauge drops to 10.5 afr until the pump shot clears. Generally I can get 14-14.5 on a light 30-40 mph cruise, that’s with a 950 hp Holley.
Narrow band oxygen sensors can tell if you are running rich or lean, but not much about how rich or lean. They have been common in cars since the 80s and do an excellent job of managing fuel economy and emissions while idling and cruising in those cars - when the sensor says it's running rich it reduces fuel until it's lean, tehn fuel is increased, and it stays just around lambda 1. They are unfortunately not very useful for tuning anything, as you generally don't want to tune it for lambda 1 just between rich or lean - for example, at full throttle you need it rather rich to give max power, and that's outside the senor range, you know it's rich but how rich? Not much help. Wide band sensors are an improved design that can tell you exactly how lean or rich you are running. This is what you need.
Speedhut is what I use, https://speedhut.com/categories/gau...-gauges/complete-air-fuel-wideband-gauge.html I'm really happy with the gauge and customer service I received over the years.
AF as a diagnostic tool I understand but mounted on a traditional hotrod or even a traditional style hotrod? Really? At least mount it in the glove box or behind an ash tray door. I got barked at for using a plasma cutter. go figure.
Name brand & Wide band Just remember Carb is not EFI . O2 great help for tuning tool , In non performance witch carb You will need to decide what of 3 basic Circuit you want to tune , & where enigine will spend most time @ . Idle, cruise, Wot . Afr are going to mover around Rich / Lean / Rich /Lean 14.7 gasoline goal point but not in stone. Below 14.7 is richer 14.7 - 9.0 Above 14.7 leaner 14.7 - 20.0 In a performance Application & only using One O2 I like to use O 2 on leanest Cylinder , So No burnt piston . & still want to tune So not to lean @ Wot Around 12.0 - 13 ish Not over 13.5 If you would use a O2 on each cylinder Or EGT on each cylinder You could tune try by balancing each cylinder what it needs , staggering jets Different spark plug heat ranges per cylinders , Air bleeds & other air fuel adjustments With carbs that allow , More likely more then what you want to know about . Me if I was doing for a D D I would focus on cruse 14.4 - 15.0 leanest cylinder But not @ Wot , Wot 12.5 -12.7 safe on leanest cylinder The other will be little richer , but you will not burn the that lean cylinder . Intakes play big part on Afr on each cylinder . EFI much more controllable also depends on the system Sequential , bank to bank , ect
I run one on my coupe, blown 421` CID SBC. Is very useful tuning. However, don't get to hung up on the numbers or you will drive yourself crazy. It will get you in the tuning ball park.
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