Technical A Kid's First Project: 1957 Fairlane 500 Town Victoria.

If you still want the plate mount, let me know and I’ll get it in the mail.

 

i think since i dont need it, that its alright if you keep it .
quality repro parts!

im currently waiting on a new tube to arrive for the old housing so i can press it in. which i removed yesterday. aswell as a gasket to install it because the new housing tore the gasket.

 

WOOO finally the other muffler bracket has been shipped! took only an extra 23 days for it to ship.
now to go find all the hardware i need.

 

while waiting for parts, i did a couple things. headliner, and vent window seals. this turned out way better than i anticipated...

 

The bows are color-coded from the factory, the used ones I got the color was shot. If you take them down, be sure to number them.

 

mine somehow are still color coded, i only took one at a time down however.

 

frozen, and installed!

 

Yesterday i adjusted my valves for a final time (engine is a lot quieter now that its actually at 19 thou) fixed my passenger side exhaust manifold smoking issue, (oil drain on the rear was clogged with a piece of valve seal) and flushed the radiator, new coolant is in, i barely fit the 9.5 quarts of straight coolant into it.

 

You might have a heating problem. Straight (100%) coolant has a lower specific heat (the ability to transfer heat to the radiator). A link:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/ethylene-glycol-d_146.html

Scroll down to: "Specific Heat of Ethylene Glycol based Water Solutions" for a discussion of this.

Also: "Note! Distilled or deionized water should be used for ethylene glycol solutions. City water may be treated with chlorine which is corrosive.

Russ

 

the total capacity is 19 quarts, after almost entirely draining the block i first poured 9.5 quarts of straight green coolant in, then let it settle, then filled the remainder with distilled water.
my water is well water, the risk is sulfur more than chlorine. i made sure to use air to flush as much as i could out.

 

i also have 5 or 6 gallons of coolant i need to get rid of, how would i do that?

 

https://epa.ohio.gov/make-a-difference/safe-disposal/dispose-hazardous-waste

Try the local auto parts store. If they won't ask them who does.

 

i guess i need to pour it into containers?

 

Well, you could try holding it your pockets...
Yes, containers and I'd ask first (phone or person) before dragging it in. This is supposed to be something they do since they sell the replacement, but just like old computers, smoke alarms and other waste, most retailers don't really recycle. They aren't making any money for the hassle of storing the stuff and having a recycling Co. come collect it.

 

Some friendly type repair shops will recycle it for you.

 

Pour it in the toilet. Won’t hurt a septic tank nor city sewage.

If you’re on a septic tank, by the time it leaches over to the grey water side, it will be so diluted by the time it dribbles out the leech line.

 

only the highest quality coolant waste


i also went through, tapped all the untapped holes for the muffler brackets, and installed all the hangers. feels good knowing whats happening next week, hopefully these smithys turn out as good as i hope.

on the last thing i did today, i stuck a hose in all the holes on my frame and washed all the mud dobber nest and crud out of it, aswell as a few mouse nests. this and the headliner completely removed the mousy smell from the car haha.

 

My chassis was choked with spider nests, yes NESTS. I got bit on my hand when taking the rear brakes apart.

I borrowed a pressure washer, blew the crap out of the frame rails, anywhere I could get the wand into. There was quite a pile on the driveway when I was done. I especially did the rocker and fender drains.

 

luckily all the mud dobbers in mine were long since dead.

something ive been thinking about changing are my valve springs, i cant rev past 4300, it just falls flat on its face and valve floats at around 60mph in 2nd, which according to my calculator is 4350 rpm. this winter im doing my valve seals, and figured while im in there with all 16 valve springs removed, i might as well upgrade to a stiffer spring, but i dont know how stiff i would need. a stock y block should be able to rev to 5000, and with a stock cam and stiffer valve springs be able to rev to 5500. i dont want to wipe my cam, so i cant go too stiff, i know the original valve springs are 135 foot pounds, but i dont know how much stiffer i should go. the factory seat pressure is 90 pounds, how much more can i go without damaging the heads or valves?

 

I’m not sure that you want to rev that thing that high, you aren’t going to gain any power just stress that poor engine.

 

ive been doing research, it absolutely shouldn't redline at 4300, however i might check my points first and see if im a little wide.

 

Ok….

 

Cat
Remember the advice I gave you when you first started this thread, Listen to the members. If they care enough to post in your thread "for the most part" they are trying to help you being a young guy. So, listen to Fargo or you're going to throw a rod, your old gal is not a NASCAR. " Said with caring and all due respect" LISTEN

 

alright, i'll treat it with a little more respect... but i figured out the real reason it wouldn't rev, the car let me know haha.
it went BOOM out on the road.
IMMEDIATELY revs quicker and is faster to react. passenger side exhaust was clogged.

 

she didnt notice until i sent this next picture haha


took a video on the drive home, was cozy listening to the radio and having the heater on medium.

 

Is the steering wheel that far off center?... triggered my OCD... but it sounds good.

Pick up another 292 and go through it at your leisure, that one should get you past 5000...

 

if im building a Y i think i'll get a 61-64 truck 312, stick 1957 312 heads on it, and find me some redds 4 tube headers, and a tripower. i dont know what cam id run though.

and yes, it needs an alignment.

 

We all dream of a monster motor that starts on the first twist, revs to the moon and pushes you back in the seat any time the pedal is pressed, even in neutral!
Just get it safe, then reliable, then hop it up.
Safe includes brakes, suspension, steering, tires, exhaust leaks, glass you can see through, controls and seating that are secure, doors that stay shut and open easily and electrical that keeps the smoke in. You have some or most of this. Keep at it.

 

next on my list is getting the tires balanced and front end aligned, this winter im going to replace the valve stem seals and door seals, aswell as start patching some metal