Projects A late introduction-Junior Conway coupe build

I'm being impacted by the part of a project like this that has always been detestable to me. While this thing was in the womb everything was reasonably simple. Now that the birth must be prepared for all the things that I'd put off (out of mind) about how to protect this thing must be dealt with.


Because it must go to the muffler shop and the upholstery shop things are starting to get complicated. I have a muffler shop that's close by that can do a traditional type exhaust system. Remember Jr just took it to the muffler shop and said do it. Same for the upholstery shop.

I'm remembering that I discovered in the 80s that I enjoy the journey much more than the destination. I had a steel, full fendered 32 roadster that just needed upholstery, wiring, and exhaust to be finished and I sold it. Strange (maybe) but true. I had people tell me that called on it there'll come a time when all you'll be able say is you owned a 32 Ford. My work was not driven by the need to be seen in these vehicles.

So here I am realizing that the very near future is full of the dynamics that I've always tried to avoid. The need for secure transport. The problem of insuring a car of this stature. Dealing with the need of the family (that's you) to see this car. Do I buy a bullet proof towing setup and take a year off? I'm being cornered by all the unintended consequences. The fact that the tow experience to get it painted was terrible (resulted in damage) doesn't help. I don't like this part.

I'm keenly aware of the sentiment out there that starts with, the poor guy.


There, now do I feel better? a little. NO!


Does anybody out there understand this? This can’t be that bizarre (sick?).
Do I need a physiological evaluation?

 

Yes...but only for getting involved with hot rods in the first place.

The rest you can live with...given a little time on the couch.

It's looking great, Jer! You can be proud of your accomplishment, regardless of how it goes from here.

 

Just read this thread from start to finish. Your dedication and attention to detail is awesome. Have you solved the brass issue yet? I've done a lot of work with brass and might be able to help you out.

 

The brass is at the plater. Every time I attempted to explain what else I've tried it was met with "I CAN". So we'll see. He is just going to clean and polish.

I told him that I wanted to spray some clear eurthane on it myself. As you know the issue is with corrosion that keeps creeping back. What would you do?

 

Brass, especially if it has been stored for a long time and has got some water or other liquid on it will develop that brown/black verdigris. It can be hard to get rid of as what can happen is the zinc in the alloy can react with the liquid and form a type of electrolysis with the copper (zinc being the sacrificial metal) and leave micro pinholes in the surface. These won't really be cleaned by a chemical process so the stain can return quite rapidly.

What you need to do is to sand down through the contaminated surface layer to new metal underneath, then redo the surface finish i.e polish, semi-satin, satin. Then apply the protective coating as soon as possible. As brass can oxidize in hours, treat the brass like a paint surface before painting. Don't touch with bare fingers or chemicals. Only use clean water and clean cloths. Get the protective layer on immediately.

If you say exactly what finish you require and how it will be mounted I might be able to give more specific advice.

 

This sounds exactly like the experiance I'm having with this stuff. It just came to me that I might have some success lightly sand blasting the back (rough) side to remove the corrosion, and then polishing the front (smooth) side and clear coating both sides.

Do you think that would work? I do have some remnants that I could experiment with. If successful I would retrieve my pieces from the plater and do them.

Regarding the finish-an aggressive polishing with fine steel wool gives the desired appearance. Its mounted by sandwiching between the upper and lower mldgs.

I would like to use double back clear tape on the exposed ends at the door opening as they have a tendency to resist laying down flat on the surface. Would that promote corrosion later?

I can't say how much I appreciate the help. Thanks.

 

Right, fine steel wool sounds like a semi-satin finish on the outside. Machine polishing will tend to "drag out" the holes to funny oval shapes, so I wouldn't recommend that. You will need to get rid of the corrosion on both sides, shouldn't take that much sanding. Then re-finish the front; if you start with 240, then work it down to say 1200-1600, then polishing should be easy. Just remember to use a little water/detergent with the steel wool for the best result. The hot water (hotter the better) rinse and dry with a clean cloth.

The problem as I see it is that you are going to get is dirt/polish build up in the holes if you mount it straight over the painted panel, especially if you use double sided tape at the ends and let the rest of the panel float free.

Is it possible to make thin sheet panels painted to match the basecoat, then fit the perforated sheet tightly to that then (thickly) clearcoat it in one piece, bonding them together with the urethane almost like fibreglass? This will give you a nice low maintenance result.

 

Nofin thanks for gettin involved. I'm showing a pic (#1) of the back side (partially) sandblasted. The next pic is of the front burnished with both sides clear coated. If it would stay like this it would work. Historically it hasn't. But Iv'e never done anything other than try to chemical clean it. What do you think?

Once everything is mounted it would be separated from the other painted surfaces by the mldgs.I'm well aware of the polish in the holes issue. there wouldn't be any polish near them. They would just be "dusted".

 

Chemically cleaning will mostly effect the surface, and needs to be rinsed thoroughly to stop the chemical process before protective coating, but will not solve the underlying problem.

If that is the finish you want and it stays like that you are in! The clearcoat should seal it off from potential problems. You can get specific application brass lacquers (try marine supplies shops).

The problem with lacquered brass is that most lacquers/ clearcoats etc only have a limited lifespan. They will usually last for a year or so then will need to be redone because of temperature/atmosphere/scratches etc, which is why I suggested bonding to a backing plate. But if that is the finish you want and don't mind re-doing it from time to time then that's fine.

Sorry if my posts aren't clear. I have been tracking this thread in my local bar...

 

Jr said that the clear (lacquer) wore off over time. This is eurethane. I'm hoping that will make a big differance. I've been at this point before except for the cleaning process that i'm hopefull about.

I'll go as long as things stay coherent on your end. Then it's time for bed??

 

The urethane will last a lot longer than a lacquer, especially if it's a two pack.

Not time for bed yet (only 11.30 pm here) but I´m working on it

 

I'm going to get those pieces at the plater tomorrow. Hot dog!

 

It's been said before and it needs to be said again. THERE AINT NO PLACE LIKE THIS PLACE!

 

We're gettin ready for the first big outing since gettin it painted. We're goin to the muffler shop tomorrow and gettin an exhaust system.

The ragged rear bumper will help locate the tips.

 

Very impressive Jer. Junior has got to be proud!

 

Thanks. Jr is busy, busy, busy, busy, busy, busy, busy, busy.

 

We were unable to make the muffler shop today because of transportation so its on for tomorrow. I got the brass back from the plater and for the first time I feel confident about it.

 

Hey Jerry!

I don't know if you've selected a striper to finish the car yet, but let me recommend Ken Smith of Ft. Worth, TX. His company is called Old School Art and he is, in my opinion, the best there is.

He is an active HAMBer, an old-school car enthusiast and has many, many years of professional striping experience as well as airbrush, flames, graphics and lettering.

Ken's shop is 6401 Midway Rd. in Fort Worth, and his phone is 817-831-8644. He was in Salina, KS at the KKOA gig last weekend, and due to be in Sturgis for Bike Week soon. You might catch him at the shop, but I'd call first to be sure he's there and not on the road somewhere.

Ken has an appreciation for old customs as well as traditional rods and the way things used to be. Take a look at his work. I think you'll agree that he'd be the perfect guy to stripe Junior's car.

 

Thanks Eric. There have been stirrings of a solution to this problem. Part of me feels that because this car belongs "to the ages" that there might be a group of talented stripers that would each claim a portion of the car. And of course there's that part that thinks I might be out of my mind.

Although the car photographs well its far from ready for striping yet. That's probably going to be one of the last tasks to deal with. The next big issue is the upholstery. And now that I'm at the threshold of getting these pesky mldgs taken care of its on the immediate horizon.

 

Wev'e gone from a tow truck driver that can't get out of bed to a downpour just before loading this morning. Tomorrow is another day.

 

Updates!!! We want updates!!

 

Keep your pants on! Wev'e gone from casual onlookers to investors. Jeeeeeeez. Thanks again Kid.

 

No Problem. I just can't wait to see it done!

 

Wer'e learning that if you want things done you have to do them yourself.

 

All lowered cars have special challenges. If you prepare for them during the build life becomes a bit easier.

The goal is to keep the pipes/mufflers tucked up level with the frame rails because of the clearance issues. The normal muffler shop reacts to a job like this by locking the doors when they see you drive up. Phil not only welcomed the work, he made it look easy. Everything was friendly, including the price.

These shots show the car on the lift and, yes we have to go through there

 

Phil cleaned up the muffler work on my Buick and did a wonderful job.

The previous owner had run the left pipe underneath the frame rail to get clearance around the master cylinder! It hung 'way down below the car and was smashed nearly flat from being high-centered on speed bumps, driveways, etc. It was a disaster.

Phil took one look at it, cringed, cut it off and set about building a new pipe in one piece that snaked around the master cylinder in a way that neatly mirrored the opposet side. The new pipe was tucked up tight, ran smooth and looked really, really neat.

You picked the right guy to build your exhaust. Phil is a master craftsman...and, like you said, is affordable as well. Good choice!

 

Jivin Jer, looking great !!!! wow !!!

 

Phil uses a welding rod to make the shape (pathway) of the exhaust pipe. Then transfers that shape to a piece of pipe on the bender. If you look close you'll always see that rod (template) with a pipe on the bender. He'll go over and fit the pipe and come back and tweek it a little on the bender and fit it again.

If you have someone like this in your neighborhood there's no good reason to be trying to do this at home. Unless of course your vehicle isn't transportable. It's too cheap to do this at home.

 

Cutting, bending, fitting. I asked Jr what did you put on it Smitty's, or...? His reply was, "whatever was on the shelf"

 

Wer'e closin in.