Technical A question for 33 - 34 Ford guys

`I'd never give Edsel credit for something as beautiful as a model 40. I believe these are a product of the Murray Body Co.

 

you want to be different, you want a curvy firewall, does this work for you?

 

THATS RIGHT KEEP ALL 34 STEEL ------ HAVE A HAPPY NEW YEAR -----

 

THAT CAR IS BAD ***

 

Yep, that's what George does.

 

IT HAS THE RIGHT ---- look ----

 

The car is nice. That engine is plain F ing ugly.

And it needs a grille.

 

Would it matter IF her name was Henry?
Just as long as she stands in the right spot, & better if she comes with a sister or friend to stand on the other side.

 

Nope!

 

I don't see a hood in that photo.....................................what were we talking about.

 

I'm sure there was an excellent team of design engineers on staff at the release of the model 40. But if you read up on it, Edsel had just taken the reigns from Henry and wanted the swoopy lines and design of the 33-34. They pushed the larger interior room and several models to the public like never before. They were never meant to last long enough for us to cram a late flathead or sbc in one. So the OP has to modify, so be it. I would like to get an uncut original firewall sometime and replace the piece of **** in mine. By the way ,if you remember, it wasn't until the release of the 37 , that the public lost favor with the forward thinking of Ford. And we like the model now.

 

The bottom front also adds support to the front of the body to the frame.

 

as per usual, the topic of the post has blown off course.

My question was, does that area need to stay there for some reason? Seems like the answer is no.
I will be running a full hood, so the "looks" part of it isn't as important as the structural integrity is to me.
Some of the hood vents are in this area, and I had wondered in the past, if the shape of the cowl side panels had anything to do with cooling efficiency.

 

I agree with others, I think your engine is too far forward. The fuel pump stand is right up against the firewall stock

 

Sorry if I contributed to that.
I think the reason for the shape of the firewall is that there is this gracefull curve to the trailing edge of the hood side on a 33/34. On previous years the trailing edge matches the firewall. So ford stepped the firewall so the top is near the windshield, and the bottom is near the bottom of the curve on the hood side.
I think cutting the whole bottom portion of the firewall off, as jr30 did, and moving it back whatever distance you need would not compromise the structural integrity. That 1" or so flange where the firewall spot weld to the cowl side does not NEED to be there, but if you remove it, it spoils the flow. It's under the hood, no one will see it. Cut the ****** thing off and get that beautiful engine in already!
Cheers,
Stewart.

 

@Chris it can't go back any further. Like I said, I already trimmed the lower edge because it hit the engine.
This photo is before I trimmed it off.



the throttle linkage hits the intake manifold too

 

That's pretty slick.

 

Here You Go

 

As I said before, your engine is sitting to high in the frame, you crank pulley should be behind the cross member not on top of it! if you move the motor down and back you would not need to be having this conversation about cutting the firewall up. If you don't want to listen to me talk with Chris above, the oil breather tube should be almost against the firewall!

When setting up motor mounts in one of these cars you should take care to align the crank center-line with the hand crank hole on the spring mount. and the hole in he grille shell.

Read up on this post and look at the pictures, your motor is too high and too far forward

http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/need-help-positioning-flathead-in-34-frame.198995/

 

what part of it already touches the firewall do you not understand? How will moving it back make it clear the firewall???

Look at the photo of my motor (8ba) in the car, then look at the photo of Chris' motor (not an 8ba) in his car. Run a line across the sparkplugs, to the firewall, and they are sitting at the same height.

I did position the engine in the ch***is with the crank pulley behind the crossmember. I even had one of the pulleys of the dual pulley cut off to make more room. The right cylinder head hits the firewall when it's in this position, and the fuel pump is halfway under the firewall. I had to cut the indent area out when I attempted this, just to see how it fit.

I would post a photo of when I did that, but the JJ ap is worthless

 

Can you remove the splash apron, turn the wheels so we can see the height of the front motor mount...?

 

This shows exactly why you don't normally cut the wings off the firewall. The bottom of the bodies reveal line comes into that point. When you cut the wings off it looks like you forgot all about why a Model 40 is the prettiest Ford ever made. There's alot of things to do to a car to improve it. But in my humble biased opine less is more on these cars. It is your car though, but remember if you modify it and it looks or functions better and the m***es can't tell where you've succeeded.

All the best,
Tim

 

I am confused.
34 fords had a V8 stock so why is fitment causing issues? There are a bunch of different 8ba water pumps. find the right set to put the engine in the same location as stock. or why doesn't that work?

 

We went from knife edged cowl wings to water pumps

 

I know, right?!

um, "a bunch if different 8ba water pumps"??? there are 2, car pumps, and truck pumps.

believe me, it's as low as it can go, and still get a fan belt on the pulley.

 

I have seen 59a pumps I. Conjunction with 8 BA distributor location I know the belt just grazed the distributor

The heads and fuel pump location are same from a 59a to a 8ba , the bell is bigger so other than trim more for the bellhousing the relationship firewall to back of the motor should be the same as a stocker

Been a long time since I worked on a 34 but I found an old pic and that pulley is close to the crossmember so you are right for sure in that respect I can see things getting close there

Are you not using a stock frame and trans , I would think that would have set the position

People are just trying to figure out how putting a flathead in a 33 -34 could be soo complicated ... **** it ... Cut the firewall set that ***** back there like a fuel altered

How come nobody gas given you **** for that fancy
Alternator yet?..... The hamb is slipping ...

 

Yea..... This seems like waaay more effort than it should be.. There have been some great examples of how to and pics to back it up..? Yes??

Simple solution.... Here's what I did on my model A coupe.... Yea, I know,,,, it's not a 33-34 but follow along.

Leave the water pumps you have, have an early fan mounted generator converted to 12v, with a wiz wheel cut the original generator mount/slide off, grind and shape it nice nice ... Remove the locator pin, this will allow you to slide the newly modified generator back and forth for belt alignment, use the 8BA generator saddle and strap,,,, done. Now you have one belt, no fan sticking out in front of the generator.

You'll gain like 4 inches, it's a neat little fix all.

And the fan is still low enough so it won't even come close to the upper hoses.

 

Pics.