i'm about ready to start plumbing my brake system.. here is what i got- Model A Truck- 40 ford front brakes, rear are 59 ford F-100 dual res. master cylinder(new from pete and jakes), 2, 10 lb. residual valves- i have a few questions.. the first being do i need a proportioning valve? secondly- can i run a Tee off of my front drivers side through frame fitting, or do i need to have equal brake line lengths coming from the front brake line Tee(see crude renderings)?
I'm no expert but have built a few hot rods. I think a prop valve is mostly used on disk/drum setups to keep the rear brakes from locking up first. You could easily add one later, but I dont think you need it. The lines don't need to be equal length. Your diagram looks good to me.
i thought the same thing on the proportioning valve... if either rendering looks good than i'll go with the simpler layout(bottom) thanks-
You guys and your dual res MCs - It takes all the thrill out of brake failures. I had a 58 caddy fail at a 5 way intersection, on a friday at 4:30 in San Diego once - Thanks to the drive thru liquor store, everybody lived.
Light car! Pretty good brakes on rear. That proportioning valve MAY let you fine-tune those rears. Fronts NORMALLY do most of braking. DD
Brake line lengths make no difference once completely bled of air. Don't need a proportioning valve. I never used one on T-buckets I have built even with disc front and drum rear. Your bottom drawing is fine.
Yep..I'm running a floor mount MC.... For the brake light switch I was either going to run it off the tee fitting for the rear brakes it's switch on the brake pedal... The real challenge is going to be routing the front ... I'm running a Olds 324, with stock exhaust manifolds..and a 37 Ford steering box(set up for side steer) the drivers side is way too close for.comfort..... The pipes are pretty close to the frame rails(boxed) ... Too close for a brake line..I'm concerned of heating the brake line up too much... One solution would be to run part of the line inside the boxed frame rail... I'm certainly open to suggestions??? Thanks for all the input fellas.. Stay tuned for a image...
The bottom drawing is fine. As mullskull said, keep as clear of exhaust as possible, and you'll have no issues. 4TTRUK
A couple things about the threw frame fittings, there was some talk about them trapping air that could not be bleed out in it's cavity, will have to do a search and find it. The other thing is I have 2 or 3 sets of them and they are all for the 37deg. Stainless braided hose. Is there a threw frame fitting that you can mate up a 45deg. rubber hose?
here is my clearance between my exhaust pipes and frame rails.. driver side 1/4" passenger side 5/16 like i said, i think the driver side is too tight... and i'm not sure 5/16 is enough (1/16 between 1/4' line and exhaust pipe)... i know it's not ideal to run brake lines where they can't be accessed.. but i'm not sure i have many other options??? brigrat.. i have Some pete and jakes tf fittings..they have a #3 AN male thread on one end, and a female on the other.. they have a not sure what you are referring to with 45˚ and 37˚... are you referring to a double flare fitting and a AN type thread fitting? i was planning on running a steel braided/teflon hose from tf to the wheel cylinder... forgive my ignorance.. but can you carify???
You answered one of my questions, you are running braided so no worries and stainless lines? Or your running an adapter from the stainless braided to double flair regular brake lines? I would still do a google on bleeding with the threw frame fitting................
I was thinking of running braided from the tee to the wheel chlinders.. Steel lines from the MC to tees... I'm imagining that someone.makes an.adaptor fitting+?++
Ok...you right you don't have room to run the lines between the frame and ex pipe. Pull that motor and put a sbc in there, sorry just kidding... If it were me, I'd run them under the frame for a short distance, so as to miss the pipe. I'd get some nice brake line clamps and route them nice and tight under there and be done with it. Do a nice job and nobody will notice, if they do, they'll think your as smart as me.... Damn this margarita is going down good tonight.
No valves needed on 4 wheel drums. What is needed is proper adjustment more often than just when changing shoes. I like to listen while spinning drums forward and adjust them all to the same "drag" sound and feel. Test the car in a hard stop and readjust if necessary. I read in a 1966 Dodge FSM the Mopar cop cars with 4 wheel drums did not come with automatic adjusters and called for the mechanics to adjust the drum brakes once a month. Job security!
Well OK but.... You should have a 10# resid valve for drums whether the MC is under the floor or on the firewall.
no access besides me drilling a hole or two....even though it'll be a pain in the ass i would rather do that than run the line under the frame....
Most Drum to Drum M/C's come with a resid valve installed internaly, so if OP has one leave it, if not add them I quess. I dought this is his problem though..............................................
Personally i would fit the prop valve as it enables you to fine tunes the brakes rather than putting up with a little lock up now and then I definitely wouldn't run the line under the frame, not good !!!
This is an older thread but I think the OP's drawing may have the lines switched at the master cylinder. I think the primary port of the M/C is designed to feed the front brakes. Maybe the brake experts can weight in here.
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