It will be really interesting to see how the 216 responds to the new gears. Don't under estimate the potential there. After all that is the engine that Wayne Horning built his first 12 port heads for. Also remember they came new with shims in the rods that can be removed to adjust clearance as the bearings wear. Drop a line from the high point of the wheel cut out and line the axle with it. Chevy pickups were 1 1/2" forward. It had to do with the closed driveline and the hinge arrangement where the axle bolted to the spring. Or maybe they used the same length drive line on everything.
inlines can make a bunch of power i am really impressed by the 292 especially with better manifolds, carburetion and a cam,, lots and lots of torque, only bad thing is the offset motor mounts, but hey, you gotta fab em anyway,, right?
Hi Buddy,I've had to move the rear back a half an inch on all the early chevys i've had,cars and trucks.thats just the way they all were
No AC this old car is to remain as much stock it can and still run turn and stop as well as be safe no AC. I do have it in my 37 streetrod. Love your 38 by the way very nice
I took off work yesterday went to decatur swap meet. I bought a complete 261 said to run. Got back on the coupe today got the rearend moved back and lowered 2" looks good there going to try and get the front coils cut tomorrow. I also got around to building my drive shaft this afternoon. Tomorrow will 28 days on this project I will try and get some pictures asap. For now I want to learn a little more about this 261
The oly thing I remember about 261 is that you gotta pay close attention to head bolt length. IIRC, there is one bolt somewhere in the head bolts that is a little shorter and if you screw up and put the longer one in ti will tighten up, but it blocks the oil flow to rocker arms. Dave
got he cross member done and installed this morning also pic of the drive shaft I made yesterday is day 28 not going to make the 30 days if I dont take a day off work HMMM
Ok guys what do you think now? I centered the rear wheel using a plumb bob. I lowered the rear 2" and cut one coil off the front. This is the look I was after. and now for real horsepower the big 261 LOL
I'm really liking this build, and the new stance is better! ...But since you asked- I really like these cars with 2"-3" rake in them- the just look fast sitting that way, IMHO. The pics look like the rake is minimal, maybe even level? Keep up the great work!
That's just gross man! I bought a 63 Dodge farm truck a few weeks ago with that same problem. I was shaking rat **** out of that truck for three weeks. It never looks this bad until you dig into it.
Looks good. I'm with 38 flattie on the rake ........ or the front needs to sit up about 4" higher if you have a healthy V-8 and fender well headers. But that's just me.
We have options but for now I think this is the look I am after. No problem to slam it or raise it for that matter. Thanks for the input guys
Finally the weekend. I got on the brakes today we are useing the old master cyl as an actuater for a power brake boster and dual master cyl. This way we still have the old pedals in place with new brakes. I hope this works out I will have to incorporate an offset because the booster will be lower than the old master cyl was. Now lets do some brake line plumbing old master cyl new piece I made old spring from the orignal master cyl used as a return spring all ***embled and ready to install more later now installed and hooked up now PS pump mounted I mounted it low to try and hide it I plan to put a generator over it to help cover it Woo Woo hot rod parts
Your work is handier than a Three Dollar Bill! Love what you and your Dad are doing to your car. Nice buildup.
Back at it this afternoon got a little done almost done with the rear brakes. Brake line Plumbing is nearing an end. power steering plumbing is done. I had to machine the axle hubs down because they were to big for the holes in the wheels I plan to use. Front sheet metal goes back on tomorrow I hope. Coming right along. Thanks for looking Buddy now that fits like it was made for it
The 261 had a air compressor mounted on it for air brakes I removed it so I could see the head casting number, It is a 848 There is a rebuilder tag dated Nov 1963 shows .030 bore .010 mains and .040 rods. I would like to find a better crank to start with. I have a line on a .010-.010 I might try to buy if it is fresh turned .010-.010, not worn out. I feel the bore is worn out because it turn very easy by hand. I think a complete rebuild is in order. thanks for the intrest Buddy
Inline sixes make awesome TQ, I have had a few, one was a 230 in a shoebox nova with all Clifford components, cam, intake, exhaust, little ****er hauled ***,, i've heard about 261's, believe that is a GMC truck engine, here is a couple sites for reference: http://www.stoveboltengineco.com/ http://www.inliners.org/ and here is an ad from inliners: (he is in Oregon tho) --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Buy,Sell,Trade inline Chevy/GMC engines and parts. http://jjinlines.com James~503-740-6783 --------------------------------------------------------------------------------- also goto stovebolt.com and search for 261, lots of references there, and parts too, might find that crank you need, cant wait to hear a video of it runnin,,
Is your real name "Willard?" Maybe you should name the car "BEN" http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ds-3H34Szz0
Day 42 some lube install a battery, the front sheet metal and were off for a ride!!!!!!!! at long last. We took her out and while dad was driving it caught on FIRE!!!. Seems as if one of the rats hid his nest on top of the exaust manifold and filled it with peach seeds which will burn. We saw lots of smoke jumped out found the source raked it off with a screwdriver had a good laugh and drove home. It was a great time. Now I will start trying to get some of this primer off. heres a few pic of it now. Dad putting his finishing touches on it and thats how you do it Now that was fun see ya later Buddy
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