1) there should be a small bolt where the ground runs from on the alt.... look for a bolt/screw on the back that seems to serve no purpose and that is where you need to run your ground.... 2) follow the directions that you have and splice wire #2 close to the battery between the ign switch and the batt... do not splice it in in front of the ign switch... 3) does your vehicle have an indicator lamp? HC-
#2 does not need to go near the dash.... It just needs to go from the altinator to the battery between the ignition switch and the batt.... You can just run this wire from the alt to the "HOT" lead wire that goes into the dash and too the ign switch.... I think that "in theroy" you can run the #2 wire to any positive lead that has full time power, but in order to have the correct circuit you need to have it on the ignition "hot" lead.... Can anyone else confirm this??? HC
The # 2 terminal can just be a couple inches long, and connect to the Bat terminal on the alternator. Usually, you don't even need to ground the alternator, it's bolted to the engine, and grounds itself.
Choprods is right, Just make a short jumper wirer from # 2 on the pig tail over to the bat. terminal. Go get a cheap volt gauge and run the #1 from the pig tail to the gauge and your done. I think it's a good idea to run volt gauge with an alt. You'll always know what shape your chaging system is in.
Ummm...guys... If you run the exciter wire (#2) to battery power, it will be trying to energize the alternator all the time...even when the vehicle isn't running! I run mine to KEYED power. (Accessory side of the switch works fine). Seems to me that you'd have a draw on the battery, and possibly fry diodes in the alternator if you just ran the exciter wire to battery power (hot all the time). A true "one wire" alternator just uses the big battery wire and is activated by rpm, but the typical GM internally regulated alternator shown here is not rpm activated...that #2 terminal is what makes it charge. Also, you don't need a ground wire run to the alternator, the bracket does that. The diagram just indicates that the case provides the ground.
Ok ,I hope I can do some 'splainen here. The wire can be hooked at the Alternater to the big battery wire.This is how a one wire alternator works (with a resistor) The problem with that is it will read the alternator output instead of the battery voltage. Wow thats confusing ,Ok when we wire race cars ( I know you don't have a race car) the battery is in the rear. The battery + lead is long and has a voltage drop.If I run the wire from the alternator all the way to the battery it reads voltage at the battery. If I hook it to the battery lead at the alternator it will read battery voltage -minus resistance drop in the cable from the battery. It depends what your resistence is but the voltage available to run the car and accesories will be different depending on where you tap the current from. We like ignition systems, Radiator fans,fuel pumps ect to get 13 + volts instead of possibly 11.5 volts. The Idiot light is pretty simple ,any light that has a wire ground( no grounded bases) will work anywhere. What happens is hook the + lead on the light to current when the switch is on . Then hook the ground lead to the alternator. When the alternator is not charging it will make the ground and the light will light,when it's putting out current ,no more ground so the light is off. Hope this helps, I'm a lot better at showing than I am telling. Oh ,and an alternator doesn't care which way it turns,just mount it when it's easier.
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