I also lowered *** a TAD and brought the rear down a bit . You could say me and POPS met on middle ground.
Cool, keep the pics coming. I am ready to locate my two lower trailing arms and I was concerned with having them in so narrow since these axles are so wide. How long are those arms from mount to mount point? Very nice work.
Super build,,,AGAIN!! And a sedan to boot,lovin it big time. So how did the rear end work out in the width department? I am looking for a 9 inch for my car and keep getting different info (31sedan). What wms to wms did you go with and now that you got the body on, would you change anything?
65" and I have an 1.5" on each side right at the tire bulge ( with it sitting right at the belt line) . It's perfect. A 67" rear would be OK too., I went a tad under, because I can always space out if needed. Thanks for the compliments. Getting fab time in this year has been TOUGH. Working 12 hours a day and my younguns are 2 and 4, so they get almost all my free time ( since they "want" to hang with dad right now)
Planning on a FULL day tomorrow in the garage. Should have the sub frame complete and body / cage mounts complete. I decided to do a bolt in cage. the mounting plates will also be bolted to the body mounts ( no rubber ).
well, I didn't get as much done as I wanted. I ran into a big snag up front. Not enough room for 3 pedals and a cage. Just need to stare at it a bit more. Parts are starting to pile up
First of all great build,been watch this sence it started. Don`t know if it will help with your peddle problem.But some ideas that might help.I see you have framed out around the gear box. I find you lose alot of needed space by framing out you trans tunnal.I alway leave around the trans till last and build the floors up to the box and then build the tunnal in 3 section. in your case only two. your bell housing is outside the fire wall. Here is a link to a pic of a chevy II I did with the same ideas.It has alot more room but you get the idea.Now for a idea for the roll bar. maybe make it part of the door post at the bottom and move it to the outside of the body more.I see with the door post and that cross member there must be 3 or 4 inch there that can be used.Anyway hope this helps. http://www.islandrodandkustom.com/projects/chevy/000_0222.jpg
Move the cage. You're giving up like 2" where you've got that downtube positioned. Put an arc in your a downtube, get it out father, behind the door post. Gets it out of the way, and lets you s***ch the post to it, doors close like Mercedes that way
Yup... Once I get the pedal ***y, I can start playing with the down tube placement. Initial PIC was a starting point.
Please take some pics of you sitting with you feet on those pedals you are getting so we can see how much room you have to go from brake too clutch, too gas. Car is cool build but it looks like you will be giving up comfort on your lower legs against the seat to try an make you feet work with the pedals comfortably and safe so you don't get you feet caught in between the pedals.
well that tilton set-up was going to be over a grand, so I opted for a MUCH cheaper wilwood 2 pedal. I went with a tandem master vs, 2 singles to save space... It's all going to work out. Can you say LAID BACK ? ****py cell phone pic below
Man that thing looks sweet. Looks like you are doin everything right. Very nice fab work! Keep it coming.
That blower motor looks sweet in there! It looks very similar to the one I built to put in my 28 A pickup. Whats it like to see around that air filter scoop?
I opted to mount the alt on the 9". I picked up a chevy crankpulley from kragen and started slicing it up.
Those will look great! juice throttle? May I ask where you go your dimple dies? There kinda pricey and I'm trying to find an affordable set. I may just spin some up on my own if I cannot afford a set.
I was noticing on the upper 4 link bars the angles at which they are attached are differant. Wouldnt this cause a bind? I have the same kit on my 50 chev with a 9in and I fought those brakets that you used on the frame untill I tossed them and made my own to get those angles the same. Did I waste a bunch of time? I know I read it some were?
I got the offset diff part figured out. It was the brakets on the axle compared to the ones on the frame. I thought the angle of the bolts should match? the ones on the axle look to be almost level but the ones on the frame look about 30deg.? now I me be answering my own question here but the differance I see compared to my setup is yours looks to be a heim joint on the ends? therfore not making as much as a differance? Looks great by the way I'm building a sedan too. I Should have read the whole post before I started typing. you fixed what I saw when you added the heims. Sorry?
Heims and I used HIGH mis alignment spacers, from a rock crawler After seeing your ride, I am now convinced I shouldn't run a 32 shell, but what POPs want's POPs gets...
Radiator, shell and headlights can get checked off the list. I took an already chopped 32 shell, cut another 5" out of it and made it all fit. I pushed the shell out and headlights down for a bit of a different look. Many won't agree with it, but I dig it. Also snapped a pic of pops questioning the height of the shell, don't know why but I am getting the impression he thinks it's too low up front I can always cut more out.... Originally I wasn't too thrilled about the 32 shell, but after I chopped it up and pushed it out, it's starting to grow on me.
The Jalopy Journal
