A very stupid AN fitting question... screw the heater....

I don't know what the size is, but you can get plugs from the hardware store to block off the outlet/inlets. It's a standard pipe size and thread. I just took one of the fittings in to the hardware store and matched it up. Cheap fix.
r

 

Ryan, on the 62 i plugged the outlets with brass plugs(hex head) polished.

Jim

 

I'm guessing you're going with an SBC?

If so, Earls makes an anodized NPT plug in both hex head -fairly thin hex, looks nice - and Allen plug style.
They call this one "Internal Wrenching," but it takes a regular Allen wrench.

Install either with Never-Seize or the careful use of Teflon tape.
Do not, I repeat, do not use Loctite's PFT pipe thread sealant. The stuff works good on brass and steel, but is a total bitch on aluminum.
It will glue the aluminum fittings in and you'll just about destroy them taking them apart.

You won't have any problems blocking off the water pump and intake manifold heater holes.
I ran my late Buick like this for several years and no problems.

 

I think stock SBC is 3/8 pipe at both fittings.

 

[ QUOTE ]

Do not, I repeat, do not use Loctite's PFT pipe thread sealant. The stuff works good on brass and steel, but is a total bitch on aluminum.
It will glue the aluminum fittings in and you'll just about destroy them taking them apart.



[/ QUOTE ]

Somehow that sounds like knowledge from first hand experience.

So I'll back it up, I "glued" in an aluminum plug in an aluminum manifold and it ain't coming out!

I think if it was mine and I was going to be replacing parts soon, wp etc. I'd just run th heater hose from the inlet to the outlet. and not have to deal with fittings.
That's the traditional way to do it, for me anyway.

 

Another option that I've seen used before is a rubber "cap" that's available in the HELP section of some parts stores. Basically looks like a short length (about 2") of hose that is capped off on one end. Simply slip it over the inlet and tighten down a hose clamp on it.

Not the cleanest of all fixes, but better than a hose from the water pump to the intake.

 

Ryan, the holes in the intake and water pump are 1/2 n.p.t. That's a pipe thread. The plugs are easy to get, even Home Depot sells the brass ones.

Good advice about the coating of the threads to avoid siezing.

The rubber caps like Bass is talking about crack and split after a few months.

 

If you DO want to go with AN anodized stuff, summit has a pipe plug kit (summit brand) that come with 3 3/8"npt and 3 1/2"npt plugs, in blue anodized AL. Neat thing is, it's the same price as 1 plug from a brand name company!!! (around like $6)

 

Yeah, I've never actually ran the rubber caps on any of my cars, I've just seen them used for this application a couple of times. Needless to say... if they crack and split, then they would only be a temporary fix.

 

Actually, the most traditional repair would be a rusty bolt shoved in a 2" section of heater hose. The rustier the better.

 

If you are going with a polished manifold Summit has chrome plugs also.. I ran the connection tube like you mentioned for a while

 

Is this nuts or what?-I was under the impression that one should not use brass fittings/copper hose on an engine with aluminum parts...something about setting up a chain of events causing cooling system -corrosion/damage?

 

Ryan, I take it your Chevy has the Deluxe heater with the haeter core mounted in the bulky ductwork on the inner fender. An alternative to this is the standard heater used in 49 -52 Chevys. It uses a smaller fresh air tube like the one on the drivers side & the heater core housing is mounted to the inside of the firewall under the dashboard.

This would increase the space around your headers & still have a heater.

Billy

 

I've had one of those rubber "caps" on my car for about ten years and it still doesn't leak.

 

[ QUOTE ]
Is this nuts or what?-I was under the impression that one should not use brass fittings/copper hose on an engine with aluminum parts...something about setting up a chain of events causing cooling system -corrosion/damage?

[/ QUOTE ]

brass is fine, radiators, heater cores, sending units and water cross over tubes on some manifolds are made of brass.

I use the brass hex head plugs because I think they look better than the iron square head plugs but if this is just temporary I would consider the rubber caps as mentioned earlier.

if they are permanent maybe shoot the plug with some silver paint to blend with the aluminum manifold.

Paul

 

Don't use steel plugs in alum manifold. I got an old performer intake bought used cannot remove steel plug. Finally just ground it off smooth painted the manifold. Temp sending units are brass.