Be sure you show how you do your ft brake line connection .Are you going to use a small plate for the line ,or go thru the frame? Looks real good. Know you are pleased with the paint behind you. Thanks, jim
Are you going to use rubber hose? If so let me know the number for the fitting you will be using. Just got the r/e back from the blaster. Hope to clean and paint tomorrow or wed. Thanks, jim
This build is inspirational for me. I really need to get my butt in gear and start back on my 29 Coupe. Wish I had heat in my garage lol.
Thanks guys. I have been working on the transmission and gathering brake system parts. I also took the Merc block to the machine shop. I hope it checks out good . Hopefully I’ll get a video posted after the holidays. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Be interested in hearing about the transmission rebuild. About ready to reassemble mine. Been using the Vanpelt guide which has been very good. —louis
Hi Louis, I have been using the Vanpelt book also. I like how it has the specification limits and other technical info other books don't include. It is a great guide. Aaron
Aaron.... how are you building your motor.... bore, cam, carbs?.... if you posted this before, sorry I guess I missed it. Hope you and yours had a great holiday...... Mark PS.... congrats on finding a good block!!!
Hi Mark, I guess I should have been more accurate in describing the "no cracks". The machine shop magnifluxed the block, no cracks there. I still have to get it pressure checked. I drive my cars a lot. I think it's better in my case to keep the motor bore where it is now at .060 over. I have a 4" Merc crank to go with that. I'll use the 1.5 and/or 1.6 stainless valves, isky springs, original Johnson adjustable lifters, maybe a 400jr cam, original Edmonds dual intake, new Stromburg 97s, and an MSD distributor. At least that's what I'm thinking right now.
Yup I like the motor plan..... save some of the bore for next time....4” crank is always good...hot cam for a light car....Looking forward to more videos....... Mark
Building old cars and using old motors has some challenges. I could not find any shop around me that had the fixtures to pressure test a Flathead block. Instead of dumping a bunch of money into a block that I'm not 100% sure of, I ordered the test kit so I can do it myself. Man I hope it passes this last test!
Good luck!!...Hope it tests good. A little air pressure and some soapy water. I bought one to test the motors I have. Gotta warm up before I spend anytime in the garage...... Mark
Can I borrow it to test mine? Where are you getting the machine work done on the flathead? My trans rebuild hit a major bump. Looks like I need a new case. What was supposed to be a quick freshening up has turned into building a new transmission. Hope yours goes better. Thanks, —louis
Come on down louis. We’ll get your motor checked. That sucks about your tranny. My block only needs the valve seats done. I have a couple of leads to get them done. The rest I’m doing myself. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
Thanks Joe, I'm glad you're getting some useful information out of this thread. The video is a little long, but it's hard to stuff a trans rebuild into just a few minutes. Hope you guys enjoy it, if nothing else maybe you'll get a laugh or two out of me fumbling my way through it.
Nice video. I'm not familiar with the Ford tranny, but I worked in the transmission room in a heavy equipment repair shop for years and rebuilt many transmissions. A tip I would give is to use petroleum jelly to lubricate the bearings as you assemble it, just pack those roller and ball bearings full of it. You could also use it to hold the springs and ball bearings in the synchro. Petroleum jelly will melt away and mix into the transmission oil as soon as it gets up to temperature first time it's put back to use, grease won't. The jelly will give the bearings some initial lubrication until the transmission oil gets into all of the rollers. We used to buy the stuff in 5 gallon size containers, and I kept a coffee can full of it on my work bench. It's also useful for holding gaskets in place and lubricating seals. Also, there's a rule to never blow air across a bearing causing the bearing to roll while you are drying it, or spin a dry bearing, that will damage it. Watching you assemble it dry, and then spin it with those dry bearings made me shudder. Another tip for installing gears that are a pressed fit onto a shaft is to heat the bearing up to ~300* F. We used a bearing oven for this, but you can use an old hot plate. When in the field we'd use a torch with a small tip, but that's a little dangerous, you need to be quick with it and keep it moving to prevent overheating the bearing and damaging it. We used temp sticks that melt at a certain temp to tell us when the bearing was ready to install, but an old trick passed down from the older mechanics is to use spit. Spit will sizzle at about 300 degrees. You can also chill the shaft to shrink it. Some guys put 'em in a freezer for awhile, but that really doesn't get them cold enough. It doesn't hurt though, but better is to use some dry ice, pack the shaft in a cardboard box with dry ice around it and let it set while you get things prepped, and while you heat the gear up, then when the gear is ready, it will slide much easier onto the cold shaft. Liquid nitrogen is even better! I love that stuff, makes assembly really easy. Anyway, good video, I'm sure that will be super helpful for guys, and I hope my tips will help as well.
Thanks Jim and Blues4u. Thanks Blues4u for the good advice, everything you said is true and very good advice for someone putting this trans together. I want to thank you for the time it took you to write up and share your knowledge, I know it will help myself and others reading this. I didn't explain it in the video, but I made the choice to assemble the trans dry because I didn't want to introduce any lubricant that would inhibit the sealant from sticking on the shafts and inside the shaft bores, causing a leak later. After assembling and letting the sealant dry, I went back and used a syringe to put gear oil into the roller bearings through the oil ports. I also used a spray oil inside to coat and protect the gear assembly until it's ready to install into the car. Aaron
I wish I could save this video in something separate. Watching it again. You have broken it down into sub assemblies, and that make it doable. Quite a valuable lesson.
Aaron uploads all his videos onto YouTube. They’re all there for you to view as often as you would like. You can send yourself any of the videos to your email as well by clicking on the share tab. Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
Aaron well done !! I’ve never done any transmission work ... all the gears and pins make me nervous. Fantastic video for guys like me who are a bit overwhelmed. Thanks for sharing as always Mike. Sent from my iPhone using H.A.M.B.
The Jalopy Journal
