I am pretty sure i have read every post so far, studying all the variations of the build, I have noticed 3 distinct methods of hanging the rear, suspended, welded directly to the frame rails, and flanges welded to the rear with bolts horizontly p***ing thru the rails. the very first thought that came to my mind was use of spring perches with a center pin p***ing thru the rails verticly as in the rail had replaced the leafs of a more modern car, am i missing something? the pin would certianly eliminate any fore - aft motion, and a simple plate could be easily welded to prevent any pinion rotation should the need arise,
Check out our build album link, pics #24,31 & 36. That's how we ran our rear end for the two seasons prior to shortening the gearbox and frame (at which time we went to plates & bolts). It worked just fine in spite of the tech's raised eyebrows. Eventually we decided the plates would be fractionally lighter.
There are alot of ways to mount the rearend of your car.. Look for a means that is safe, Easily removable, and with enough of the correct bolts to hold it together. Remember, Even with a stock engine, The rear axel has to be able to withstand the rotational action of the torque...Remember, for every action, there is a reaction..I still build my mounting plates like the late model funny car guys do.. They withstand 3000hp. It should take what our little 200hp engines put out..JMHO... ****.M.
Along these same lines... I have been leaning towards t******* off the back ends of my channel frame rails, and welding stock '50 dodge u-bolt plates (1/4" plate) vertically to the rails. Then re-welding the stock Dana 44 axle pads vertically to the front side of the axle tubes. Bolt together with u-bolts, just like stock, only vertical, and no springs. Will this work, or will it allow unacceptable axle wrap?
I think the only objection of the techs had on Old6's car was the U bolts holding the rearend on.. Am I correct on that one **** ???....
Actually they only commented on'em, didn't give me any grief specifically. And they worked fine, no untoward movement at all. That said, the '09 NHRA book says three 1/2" bolts per side for solid rears on "dragsters". Don't yet know if that'll be appiled to HAMBsters in their overkill zeal so we went that way as we'd been wanting to anyway.
Old6, Thanks for the "heads up". I have 2 5/8" bolts now. Guess I'll add a 1/2" bolt while it is easy to do. No point in giving the tech guys any unnecessary ammunition.
reading this, though, in theory the two u- bolts per side would be lacking one bolt on each side. Perhaps one regular bolt through the perch and the plate would get less sideways glances.
A argument might be made that there are 4 load surfaces under the nuts, but why argue, I am going to weld an extension off the front of the perch to satisfy the 3rd bolt as well as rotation control. AND i might have that tach combo, check monday.
The Jalopy Journal
