*Competition Dashboards* *Edit* The ABS dash pictured below has been identified as Crackle painted Aluminum I know ABS plastic was invented in the 40's, but is there any record of the 3/16- 1/4" thick Haircell panels being used to craft lightweght dashboards/gauge panels for competition before the 70's and 80's? My 60 falcon gasser had a beautifully curved dash from the factory, but the face was crudely cut off just under the top curved edge. (bottom pic on day I got it from the barn) I have another stock dash, that was cut out about 3 inches from the glass, but dont know about my skill level or ability to rent someone else's skill to graft the 2 together. I'm not sure I want to go with a tin dash like what I got it with, either. So there's 3 options I see: 1. Try my best to stitch the 2 stockers together, leaving cuts for cage down bars in the corners. 2. Use a different material like the black ABS Level Haircell board. 3. Create new or re-rivet the old tin one in the bottom pic back on. a. I do enjoy a competition look, and the weight savings over that hefty stocker would help. b. I have a couple of nice stock instrument clusters that can be used in Options 2 and 3, but I have no interest in actually restoring the function and look of the factory dash controls outside of using a stock cluster itself, which would affect the turnout of Option 1. Was it ever used in the 60's? -rick
Tack some dzus fasteners tabs along the bottom of the existing dash top. Then trim the new lower piece (leave it longer to cover the seam) and make holes to insert the dzus. Race cars don't need a working glove box!
The Vette at the top is crackle painted aluminium. If you want that sort of dash I see no reason to try and use anything but aluminium.
Oh wow, you're right. I couldn't zoom in on it enough from my phone where I snagged the pic, but I can now that it's posted here. I thought of your vette when I saw this one. Thanks for the input! I have no idea what i'm doing when it comes to this part of the build, that's why i'm asking questions while still working on things like how to put a steering box and starter in the exact same point in space, and other items on the list. Thanks again!
If the second dash you have has the upper dash, to the point it curves back then turns straight down, I believe I would build from that point. If you need to notch that to clear roll cage bars, do so. I would probably build the flat bottom part out of aluminum or flat sheet metal rather then from ABS. Since the Falcon is a Gasser, I also think I would keep the gauge count down to the minimum number of gauges you need for the intended purpose of the car, and I would limit the size of the gauges you install to fit within the eyebrow of the driver side pod of the dash. I would probably incorporate the lower roll the Falcon dash has, it adds a touch of class, and provides lower dash support. The modern dash pictured appears to be a road course car, that requires larger diameter gauges, and needs to monitor more things then what would be required of a Gasser. In my opinion, the number of large gauges in the modern dash is just going to look out of place in the Gasser.
True! I have no intention of putting in all those gauges. I do have a vintage temp trans gauge that was a gift, but now i'm switching to a 4 speed, so.... I would like to upgrade the stock cluster to contain a couple of gauges, I do have 2 nice ones, so I could experiment with one: but I might also see about putting a compatible sender in the mopar engine I'm installing to see if the falcon gauges function. That lower roll is nice, but i'm not sure how i'd go about adding it to flat stock. I'm nowhere near the craftsman that other guys on this board are. So much talent.
Is the car going to be a drag only car, or will it see street use? Will a speedometer be needed? Instead of using the Falcon gauge cluster, you could make an insert that fits into the same space and install the gauges that you want into that insert. If you want to use the Falcon gauges and they are electrical, you only need to make the gauge sending units for the Falcon gauges fit into the chosen motor, and attach the needed wires. If the gauges are mechanical, then you just need to fit the mechanical tubing ends into the chosen motor. The gauges them selves won't care which motor they are monitoring as long as they have their own sending units. I can't tell from the pictures, but personally, I like gauges with real numbers on them. Lights in place of gauges are pretty useless unless the lights are attached to gauges with real numbers on them. I sure like my Speedhut gauges, they are not cheap, but come with everything you need to install them, and you can get the Speedhut gauges with high and low warning lights. Speedhut gauges are USA made, you get to pick the bezel colors, the gauge font, and the face background numbers colors, check them out www.speedhut.com
Forgot, you can add the bottom roll the same way you are going to add the flat part to the top of the dash. Add 4 tabs to top of the bottom rolled piece, and insert screws, or whatever through the flat part into the tabs attached to the rolled bottom. A couple of angled pieces at each outer edge (to fit around the roll bar tubes) will add a bit of extra strength. Just wondering, who will be building your roll cage? That same person could weld the dash frame together, then all you need to do use self taping screws (like Ford did) or use dzus fasteners to attach the gauge insert.
Under the dash pad of every 65-6 Ford Pony Car lurks a 64 Falcon dash that they spot welded a dash pad support too. Shelby took that stuff off on the R Models. I think the width is the same as tjhe 60-63 Falcon.
My Dad did exactly that; swapped a whole Mustang interior into his CoMalcon (a Falcon with Comet front clip); he put the dash in with sheet metal screws. Laid the Mustang floorpan right over the Falcon one. Yikes. That mustang dash did look good in there.
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