Customs AC help

I have a 49 shoebox I just installed ac but the sbc 350 is running over 220 when using air I live in phoenix so I’m using a single pusher fan with the champion 4 row radiator I was going to switch to a duel fan set up but my radiator isn’t wide enough talking with manufacturer has anyone made this work in a hot climate? With I have to totally modify the radiator support and go with a wider radiator? Any help appreciated

 

pictures of your cooling system...radiator, fan, etc, from a few different angles, will help us see what you're dealing with.

A pusher electric fan is about the worst setup you can have.

 

Running warm at driving speeds, or at slow speeds? It almost sounds like you need more airflow through the radiator, which is generally a low speed problem. But if this is at normal driving speeds, then your radiator is probably not enough cooling capacity. The condenser is in front of radiator to remove heat from the refrigerant, but this now warmer than ambient air, is what is going through your radiator. More airflow makes for better heat transfer in total.

 

Thanks or the reply I uploaded some pics if you have any other questions let me know im winging this haha

 

The shroud is blocking too much of the radiator for flow, fan looks odd too. To check rotation/blade put your hand in front of the fan while it's on, is it pushing air into the radiator or pulling air towards the grill. You can ditch it and install a large mechanical with a shroud. Also what temp thermostat are you running.

 

Ditch the pusher fan, mount the shroud on the engine side of the radiator, and get a 5 or 6 blade fan mounted to the water pump.

 

At 50mph its runs about 210 if I get stuck in traffic it’s gets 225 before I shut it off my car normally runs 195 without no AC but I just installed Ac a week ago and I’m in phoenix so it’s getting hot

 

I was thinking about a mechanical fan just didn’t know if they move at the same cfm as a high output electric which my current fan is only I think 1600 cfm and it’s already 100 degrees in Phoenix

 

I believe my thermostat is a 195

 

From the pictures it is almost like you have things backwards, this is like the setup I had in my 1954 Ford in Phoenix and had no issues with the A/C on, this would be better. https://www.ebay.com/itm/236308570064? Notice where the fan and shrould are located ? See pictures.

 

X2!

It looks like your water pump flange is centered behind the radiator with plenty of space between them. Jettison the electric fan and add a shroud and the biggest steel 6-blade mechanical fan that fits without touching either radiator hose. Something like this:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/...g9**UsSTelaAjBUgyw4--GTc4_t3DE7saAn-PEALw_wcB

 

When I was delivering for O'Reilly's commercial division a fair amount of shops would use the Red-Line additive, you can see how several of these additives may help by watching this video.

 

^THIS.

Those four square cutouts in the upper corners look like where rubber flapper doors on a puller type system is used. Thats a bad shroud design for a puller sytem, its absolutley unacceptable for a pusher.

There is some heavy looking hardware being used on that fan and shroud as well.

Temp fix
Ditch the shroud, and mount the fan with foam blocks and zip ties through the fins as a temporary means and test the system.

What are your temps like now?

Im no fan of pusher systems, but Im also no fan of fighting fans/shrounds when working on accessory drives either.

If there is no way to remove the heat properly, engine bay will heat soak anyway and you wont be in any better position.

 

I used to design mobile HVAC equipment for off-road, forestry, construction, m*** transit buses and I’ve never seen a fan push air through the radiator. Was that from an aftermarket kit?
Typically, your engine coolant temp will increase 1F for each 1F increase in ambient temp with all other things being equal, so for sure expect hotter coolant temps in hotter climates.
The issue with that setup is that the shroud is blocking air at “highway” speeds and is being forced through the fan opening. The fan itself might also be blocking air.
Also, if you overcharge your system with refrigerant, it can significantly increase your refrigerant high-side pressure, which in turn significantly increases the refrigerant temp, and with the condenser being in front of the radiator, that increase in refrigerant temp results in excessive air temps leaving the condenser and entering the radiator which increases coolant temps.

 

Looks like there might be room for a clutch fan? You'd need to carefully measure between the lower radiator hose and the center of the water pump pulley, to make sure there's enough room, that's usually what limits fan blade diameter.

You might also see if it's possibly to put a huge cross flow radiator in there, if that doesn't do it. Lots of square inches of radiator is most helpful. Like one that came in a truck or a 450ish CI engine in a 70s luxobarge.

Additives don't take the place of a large enough radiator, and a good fan setup.

 

What would be my best option in your opinion? Leave condenser in front of radiator and get a high output puller electric fan/shroud and mount I side engine bay? Or would the biggest mechanical fan / shroud be better? I’m also running a 4 row radiator would a 3 row be better in Arizona heat? Thanks

 

With radiators, the size of the core in square inches (width x height) is the most important thing.

I look at what Chevy used to keep their engines cool with AC. Starting in the mid 60s, they always used a clutch fan and shroud. Always. It works.

 

So you think I should run the biggest like 6 blade mechanical fan and shroud that would fit my 4 row radiator? Or would I be better with a 3 row with mechanical fan or better with a high output electric puller mounted on the inside of radiator? Thanks

 

Take things one step at a time. I would use a clutch fan, bolted to the water pump (make sure the water pump pilot extends past the pulley, so it will be properly centered). And remove the electric fan that's in there.

Also if you could measure the core size of the radiator, the part that air goes through, width x height, we could see how it compares to what was originally used with AC equipped 350 engines.

Some guys would rather use an electric fan behind the radiator, but if you do that, you need to get a really good one, which is hard to find. Notice that the one you have now is NOT that really good one!

 

I'm waiting in the mechanical clutch fan line. Looks like enough room for it. They're a little noisy, but those 6 blade plastic fans are dirt cheap and move a lot of air. For less than 30 bucks you could stick one in and see if it makes an improvement. If so you can advance the get up to a clutch fan knowing it's worth the effort.

 

In addition to fan/shroud modifications I'd change the 195 thermostat to a 180 degree thermostat.

 

Curious if that electric fan was originally a puller that was to be mounted inside? If it was, and you used to push in front of the radiator, you should have reversed the blades so the air is moving the correct way. Just in case...

 

Having been stuck on the 101 last week at 104 degrees I get it. I’ve got an engineer friend down in Tucson that did the clutch fan with a 16” fan on a 56 bird. He’s cooling ok, stopped or driving, to 103 degrees. If it’ll cool a bird with a Yblock, a shoebox with a sbc is a sure thing. So I’d say listen to Jim.

You may also have to address the mounting of the a/c condenser. A lot of those come with a separate electric fan mounted with them. But get the engine solved first.

 

Looks like you have ample room to add a conventional engine driven metal fan.

The fan below is what I use and it does the job. HRP