Cool. A couple weeks ago, I decided to strengthen a couple brackets on my T Bucket. It called for drilling through the frame. Underneath was the brake line. Now, in my infinite wisdom, I decided NOT to remove the brake line because I was sure I could stop the bit just as it went through. Hell, I didn't even bother to put a block of wood under there. Result? New brake line and I ended up bleeding the whole system while I was at it.
I did, JX101 is what he recommended. It's one of them Taecko gecko lizards[blue body orange spots] that escaped a couple of years back. he would bite the crap out of you and make a screeching noise if you tryed to catch him. My son dropped him once when he bite him and he's been on the run ever since. We see him from time to time but I just let him roam. He is really my attack lizard. He keeps all the bugs ate up in the shop.
Your paint supplier seems to know his stuff. I always keep 2 cleaners in my shop...Prep Sol to clean and remove wax/grease in the beginning, as it dries slower, but also contains petroleum products that can sink into primer and haunt you later. Then when it's in primer stages and right before paint, use Pre Paint cleaner. Dries faster, with no residue. The "one hand wet, one hand dry" method is correct.
I use Coleman stove/lantern fuel or the equivalent. I have used it as a cleaner and degreaser successfully for years. It's fast-dry, leaves absolutlely no residue, like turpentine and mineral spirits do, and I often times clean my plastic eyeglass lenses with it. http://zenstoves.net/MSDS/Coleman.htm
JX 101 is just fine. I prepped the panels for paint on a $300K Packard with it. Ya think that's good enough for this crowd? I'm going to say no on the alcohol idea. It can dig into the primer sometimes depending on the wetness and product used, age, etc. I have some alky soaked wiping cloths that were given to me. They'll remove overspray if you get on it the same or next day. I'm a big supporter of the PPG Shop Line products for all home builders. The things eliminated from it for price don't mean a thing to a pampered resto or hot rod. I spent a mere $330 for ALL of the color on the one I'm doing now. In DBC or DBU, closer to $500/gal. I spend the $$$ on clear. Painted my 1st complete at 14yrs old, now in my mid 50s. As much as things have changed over all these years a lot of it is still the same. Wax n grease remover is one of em. And for the rest reading, acetone WILL remove catalyzed material, and with a wife in the beauty biz I get gallons of it when it's on sale for like $11.00. Mix it with ATF and you have a powerful penetrant for rusty shit, something we all encounter. Good luck, and follow the 'rules' of auto refinishing.
I think the sales person should have courageous convictions and be willing to do a little demo degreasing the hood of their car with acetone.
Well just leave the little bugger in the room when you do your painting and the fumes should slow him down enough to catch-maybe slow him down to a stop
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