Rather than a washer either side of the axle, I normally turn up a fatter spacer and put it under the axle for that extra 1/8" drop...
Hi friend! I originally had it set up like that but my thicker spacer wasn’t quite thick enough to fill the gap. For whatever reason I wasn’t keen on stacking washers so I split the difference. Good eye!
Does anyone have information on this accessory “STOP” light? My good friend Hitchhiker Matt at Seattle Speed Shop managed to source a bucket and bezel in his stash, but no lens. Spencer is smitten and brings it up whenever we’re working on the car. “It says ‘STOP’! Why don’t new cars say that?” Good question, kid. I’ve been looking for one since before I owned a ch***is. Ha. Any help appreciated! There was a similar one with a blue lens too, but I’m not sure you can run them with modern laws…
Only ones I have seen are for a Model A You could ask this guy: http://www.taillightking.com/ and check your PMs!
Tell Spencer to save his pennies: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1158868903...8ZZFVBkntqz7hRPK59gIUgDxY=|tkp:Bk9SR_C4qKy_Yg https://www.ebay.com/itm/2656977493...VjthhS2braSuhdXjfzhOasAzw=|tkp:Bk9SR_S4qKy_Yg https://www.ebay.com/itm/2754844072...Nv/eBtShd52SmpKvmVqZ**0CzT|tkp:Bk9SR_a4qKy_Yg https://www.ebay.com/itm/1449292622...dVGwltmwcycOEqJwXd49H82qo=|tkp:Bk9SR_a4qKy_Yg and up You could probably get someone with a 3-D printer to make you one. I might know a guy...
Hey @RyanAK I have one that is like the one, that was mentioned about from Matt @Hitchhiker It even has the mounting bracket as well, and the lens isn't broken. If this interests you, and if it will keep the kid happy, PM me and include your mailing address and I will donate it to the project. Don't let the "JESUS" name badge cause any confusion, it was just stuck on that big piston. Enjoy from Dennis.
Geez Seattle people are great. Must be the salt air and evergreens. PM inbound Dennis! Great leads, Jeff! I’ll take a look at my inbox soon!
Hey @RyanAK I replied to your PM, the light will be boxed and sent in the mail tomorrow ! Thanks from Dennis in Seattle.
Totally agree the cool factor is high. Wonder if Spencer would want to build an airplane from nothing… Isn’t there wonderful people in this life? Say ‘pre-war’ and the clan rallies to get one of these cars built. Add in a special kid with a vision and drive to do work on the car, and ALL the clans rise. People have been super kind and generous. ‘5window’ is a neighbor and friend. He helped amp Spencer to the idea of building a car by giving him a tour and providing enough old hot rod mags to fill the trunk of a ‘63 Olds. Still have your trophy from Spencer’s car show, Jeff? Special people. Thanks everyone. And know Spencer recognizes and appreciates the kindnesses.
Hey, Ryan; When you get the new lens n light, you could make(cast) a duplicate of the lens. Could possibly use the broken one, but I think it'd require a couple castings to get the crack outa the final lens. For extras in case one breaks, or someone else needs one. I know gl*** is best(or at least most wanted/preferred) - in which case I'd have a gl***blower duplicate it after making a proper mold for it. Since plastic is easier, go to Smooth-On plastics. They have all kinds of plastics, & the silicone material to make a perfect casting. Not all that expensive. You might want to experiment w/tints to get a good yellow, then for the red,(I'm ***uming you'd use one of the clear plastics), if you don't want to cast two pieces, use model-car candy red paint on the backside of the lens. Just lightly & completely sand the backside 1st where you want to paint, & the candy will come out great(no primer, no base-coat, & no sanding marks will show thru. If you would rather mask, then sand, tape & candy w/yellow & then red. Trick I learned eons ago for model car windshields, side n backlights, headlights, etc for anything made of clear plastic. Of course, the plastic-type has to be able to hold the paint... I realize you're short on time, but in winter, maybe? Spenser could even do it. . Marcus...
Spencer is clearly thinking at a different level than a lot of other kids. Just the single word actually means something and is part of a concept about safety/warning that is lost on many. His mind is working on similar tidbits all the time he is working. Maybe a plane is in his future. How cool that people here step up. I see it in lots of threads where the build captures the readers. This one has done that!
Quite a few folks have won a Ridler or AMBR. But how many have one of these?? Slightly the worse for wear from display.
Jeff, that’s just amazing! Thank you! Marcus, great idea. Matt and I have actually talked about doing something similar. Six Ball - Spence is thinking on a different level. He’s an old soul and very considered with a reason and logic many on the Spectrum exhibit. And there are some cool cats stepping up here to bring this car - and Spencer’s vision - to life. Wonderful people. We’ll need to find a way to honor all the contributors. Maybe something like a timing ***ociation tag on the dash with everyone’s name stamped into it…
A complete front end… that I’ll likely need to take apart again. Sheesh. The tie rod isn’t perfectly straight. What’s my tolerance here?
Hey @RyanAK The package is on its way, I sent you the tracking number in a PM. The package should be there on 8/21/2023 Keep wrenching on that great project with Spencer! Thanks from Dennis.
Other than looks the critical part of a tie rod is the distance between the ends. A perfectly straight one might be a little stronger.
Wow- another one you need to consider for the Friday art show, tell me it is alright, and I will post it up for all to enjoy.
Feel free, friend! Share anything I’ve posted… just attribute to me or Spencer and point people to this thread.
Thanks, pal. Aside from building a car with the kids, I do hope this thread will show that a traditional pre-war car can be achieved by someone willing to learn and wrench. My job imposed time restraints. My home imposed workspace constraints. My skills and knowledge base placed additional restrictions. And I imposed a budget. If a knucklehead like me can get a car built under these cir***stances, a nice, traditional hot rod is likely achievable for the willing no matter the box they’re working in. I will say this… the single most important tool is community. I’m in very rural PA and still have found a few guys that have become friends relatively nearby. Others are far flung. The H.A.M.B. community has thrown support behind the rallying cries of ‘pre-war’, ‘achievable’ and ‘kids’. These cars can be built. They can be period correct. They can be affordable. And they can be achieved… but not without community. I brought the first ch***is home last September 15. My goal is to have the rolling ch***is complete and the body mounted. That will give us a ‘car’ that we can ***le. Not too bad considering the challenges of the past year. I’ll do a recap of work and spend then, just to see where we are. It should be enlightening!
I need tires. I’ve found affordable 19” rubber… and I have 19” wheels. Can put tires on for ~$650. But I think this car should really be rolling on 18” or 17” wires. Seems the tire situation there is super spendy. Anyone have suggestions on reasonably priced tires in 17” or 18”?
Good luck with the tire search. They'll pop up if you keep looking. Looks like a furnace or boiler where you work, we insulate all that
Have heard good things about Blockley Tire(s). Seems they have some for 16,18,&19", all priced sorta similarly. Not sure if those're considered affordable, but Lester also does old-style, as does Lucas. Not horrible on price. & then there's the "NO-SKID" tires... . Marcus...
I have a set of 19" for my '26 Chevy roadster project. I got all four tires on eBay. The fronts are 400x19 Goodyear Eagle D/T motorcycle tires. The rears are 4.75-5.00x 19. They say UNIVERSAL on the sidewalk. I didn't spend a lot on them but I can't remember how much. Decent deals are out there but it may take time to find them.
Here’s what I’ve found… 19” Lucas Olympic 475/500-19s - 29.88” OD - $119 Lucas Blackwall 650-19s - 31.50” OD (not sure these will mount on stock Model A wheels…) - $199 Lucas Nokia (“Euro” style) 550-19s - 30.50” OD - $149 Universal (Coker) 475/500-19s - 30.00” OD - $142 18” Lucas Olympic 450-18s - 27.38” OD - $119 Lucas Olympic 525/550-18s - 29.38” OD - $139 Lucas Blackwalls 600/650-18s - 30.50” OD - $169 17” Lucas Olympic 525/550-17s - 27.50” OD - $139 Pretty much the next step up is into the ‘name’ tires with the matching pricing. $270-$350 for Firestone, Goodyear, BFG, etc.
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