I need to paint my engine bay ( White).. I have used Acrylic enamel long ago and have some materials for that still....I've never used BCCC (and do not have any materials for Bccc) I need advice on what to use. This car is going to be a driver , no show car for sure. My budget is tight. The rest of the car will be painted at a later time, not sure when. I was thinking of using Acrylic Urethene..but after reading about all the risks if you don't have propper air mask (which I don't) ..think it's not worth the risk. At this point I just need to get the engine bay painted, so I can make the car usable again. Money is tight. This car is garaged 99% of the time. Is Acrylic Enamel all that bad ? My 68 dodge was painted with Acrylic Enamel in late 80's and look great. Has the Acrylic Enamel paint changed over years and become less durable ? Or is it just that BCCC is SO MUCH better ? Going to be painting a solid color ( no metallic). What about spraying clear on the white BCCC,....does it enhance the shine much ?
Acrylic Enamel fades and gets chalky in the sunlight. It hasn't clanged any over the years, modern paints are just that much better. It'll be fine to use under the hood out of the sun.
IF you add hardener to acrylic enamel it stays glossy without chalking for a long time , but then your back to the nasty chemical thing . Under the hood I'd grab a couple spray bombs ( Rust-Oleum enamel) & be done with it , Way less muss & fuss & $$$$. Can't see it going down the road ..
Just another thought, you might get a quart of implement paint. Its usually cheaper. Easy to spray and from my experiance holds up well.
Yep, Tractor Supply or Farm/Fleet can have some good stuff. Designed to be painted on single-stage onto equipment that lives outdoors 24/7. Takes a long time to cure fully, so plan for a couple days at least to cure.
& implement paint will chalk fairly soon, exposed to the sun & weather. Use Japan Drier as a hardener for it, will help to improve the hardness & curing time, flow-out, & gloss-retention, & non-chalking. Afaik, they use a clear base & add pigment to that. Always wanted to find out for sure, & use the base-clear w/hardener as a clear-topcoat. & esp if a UV-inhibitor could be added. Still, none of which you want to breathe, just like any paint/chemical. <shrug>. Marcus...
With the acrylic enamel, you could add your clear into the last cup of white, and spray 'em together. Essentially white tinted clear as the final coats. If you have it and it's still good, I say use it!
You're at the same point I was back in 2003. I did a 53 Chevy truck. Did the cab in lacquer and stopped for a while. The paint was already going to pot in a few years of sitting outside. Point 1: lacquer isn't the same as it was in the 60's and 70's. I was looking at options without spending a lot of money. By then Centauri was a thing of the past. All of us old guys knew that any paint that was outside continually faded. Point 2: I found Kirker Automotive about then and talked to the head engineer for quite sometime. We discussed the difference in modern paints. He told me that the life of urethanes was quite substantial as compared to any of the newer formulations. I ended up painting the truck in single stage urethane. It sat outside and in less than 3 years was faded just like old enamel. Point 3: some will dispute this but single stage has no uv protection. It's all in the clear. One of the things that The Kirker man and I discussed is are you done painting or are you going to keep doing it. If the answer is yes to continuing, by a Hobbyair system with the hood because the hose comes of the rear and you won't drag it across the fender and be done with it. I think you can use cheap paint on a firewall that is covered and it will be fine. Chemicals will age it. If you clean with brakekleen, you may not like what happens. If you are not done with the hobby, I feel like you have 2 options, one is to invest in the air system, or 2, find someone to shoot it for you. Many have found out they were really reactive to the chemicals. Those chemicals never leave your system so when the build up becomes critical, it attacks the central nervous system. I have exp. with most systems except waterborne. Good luck with your decision.
I shot the firewall of the Stude (as well as the interior for light reflection especially under the dash-after the interior was installed the only white visible was under the dash) with white rustoleum, that was over five years ago, it looked the same when it was loaded on a trailer headed for Florida a month or so ago.
Thanks for your replys. I think my biggest problem is myself, having not done much painting..and being it was so long ago. I have a fear of screwing it up...not saying I would mess itup...it's the fear of messing it up ! And at what materials cost. I'm sure I can do this.....I need to get past that fear, and I guest it's time to try and learn to spray BCCC. But I still need to do this on a budget. Watch some videos youtube..I see that Omni and Nason paint might cost less. Will I need to buy reducer ?...I guess I will need sealer also (what to buy ? ). And then there's the clear ?????????????. Like someone long ago said, the only thing to fear..is fear it's self....and maybe the cost of materials
Acrylic enamel is just as hazardous as new materials, add hardener and its a lock, nasty stuff. Do you need a full body suit, filtered air supply respirator and lab-like conditions to spray it? No. Maybe if you're a finisher for a living to quell exposure, but a simple good respirator is adequate for occasional spraying, and never forget ventilation. The purge is the most vile as the solvents and chemical compounds evap into your air space. As long as you ventilate during that time it'll be ok. I use Gerson respirators. They fit well, about 20 bucks, they're charcoal filtered, come in a resealable bag. I get a good amount of use from them, toss em and get new as needed. I'd say they're good for probably 4 or more completes in a well vented area. Without hardener acrylic enamel stays sticky for nearly 2 days, some are worse than others. I hate that shit. The big win with modern materials is that the catalysts cure it fast and complete, in some cases as quickly as overnight or less. Pick your poison, and remember you need just as good a respirator for enamels as you do for any other refinish material. And YES, that includes plain ol implement paints as well. Good luck...
I would use acrylic enamel in a heartbeat. I did an OT custom car, 80 Regal, back in the 90's in AE and it looked great for 5 years, until I got rid of it. But I used the 2 part hardener with the paint. So you would need a respirator, at least. But going to BC/CC, you will need one as well!
Cheap paint suit Cheap head sock Basic paint respirator Gloves Well ventilated area if you smoke regularly, have no fears
I find that acrylic enamel will shrink after a few weeks and show 600 grit sanding marks in the right light. Never had that issue with polyurethane base paints
Limco makes a pretty good acrylic enamel that's very reasonably priced, at least the last time I bought some it did, and has held up for me very well. Definitely use hardener with any enamel. I highly doubt you're going to need to leave it sit outside with the hood off for a decade, so base/clear is not really necessary if you're on a tight budget. I've got an O/T car painted with Limco enamel 20 years ago that looks as good as the day it was finished, and I never had to re-buff it but it is kept inside when not being driven. Definitely need a good respirator and ventilation no matter what paint you're using. I even use a respirator for spray paint if I'm in a fairly confined space. Respirators are way cheaper than lungs.
I used acrylic enamel with hardener in my engine bay and it looks as good now as when it went on. X2 on using a good respirator. I do my painting in the out-of-doors so venting by Mother Nature. I generally stay upwind.
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