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Technical Adding a vacuum can to wipers: is this right?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Hillbilly Werewolf, Feb 3, 2025.

  1. Hillbilly Werewolf
    Joined: Dec 13, 2007
    Posts: 562

    Hillbilly Werewolf
    Member

    Hi guys,
    I am trying to add a reserve vacuum tank under my dash to give my wipers a little help.
    I have a tank and a check valve, but am not sure the way I am plumbing it will work right.
    20250203_175529.jpg
    Check valve allows flow in the direction of the arrows.
    Am I thinking about this right?
    Canister only has one port, but I could add another if need be.
     
  2. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,682

    RodStRace
    Member

  3. TerrytheK
    Joined: Sep 12, 2004
    Posts: 1,564

    TerrytheK
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    You got it. Did that on our '39 Ford coupe years ago. The reservoir was one of those ugly "fruit-juice-looking" metal cans from an early 70's Ford product. Just had a "L" type fitting on the top of it and I plumbed it right inline from the engine vacuum to the wiper motor. I never used any check valve. Shut off the engine with the wipers running and they'd make nearly a full swipe before they quit.
     
  4. woodiewagon46
    Joined: Mar 14, 2013
    Posts: 2,476

    woodiewagon46
    Member
    from New York

    I did something similar back in the early '70s on a '40 Ford, but I also used a six volt vacuum pump from a boat windshield wiper controlled by a toggle switch. I isolated everything from the car vacuum and only used the boat vacuum for the wipers. I couldn't believe how great it worked. The only thing I wanted to do but never got a chance to do it was figure a way to make the pump "cycle" when it had enough vacuum rather than have it run all the time. By the way, in 1946 Ford actually offered an accessory vacuum storage tank that mounted under the left front fender, it's a fairly rare accessory.
     
    Hillbilly Werewolf likes this.
  5. Hillbilly Werewolf
    Joined: Dec 13, 2007
    Posts: 562

    Hillbilly Werewolf
    Member

    Thanks guys!
    The tank I have is a little different than the one @RodStRace linked, but was similar in price, I believe it is from a '90s jeep of some uninteresting type.
    The Dorman check valve I picked up at a local parts chain, and it is not particularly impressive in its performance. Hopefully it is good enough, but it definitely doesnt seal 100%
    @woodiewagon46 I like the idea of the electric pump. I see that ebay is full of mini 6v pumps, i wonder if they would have enough 'oomph' to work the wipers. Would you only toggle the pump just before using the wipers?
    Screenshot_20250203_193054_eBay.jpg
     
  6. RodStRace
    Joined: Dec 7, 2007
    Posts: 7,682

    RodStRace
    Member

    I wouldn't trust any buck sumptin' pump for a safety operation. Especially when one is Brand New and the other is Pre-Owned and both are from 'that place'. Are they really selling a good used pump half way across the globe, or is it to avoid the filter? Hmm.
    I'd guess that the better ones should have a CFM rating or something, but have no idea how that would translate to "does it supply enough for my 60 year old car part". Something tells me the tool to measure and compare costs more than the part!
     
    Hillbilly Werewolf likes this.
  7. Steves46
    Joined: Sep 23, 2008
    Posts: 560

    Steves46
    Member
    from Florida

    For what it’s worth, in my previous car I applied white lithium grease to the wiper linkage pivot points and got remarkable results. There were instances when I thought the blades were going to fly off. . May be worth a try.
     
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  8. G-son
    Joined: Dec 19, 2012
    Posts: 1,475

    G-son
    Member
    from Sweden

    Look at the motor size on those pumps, compare to the motor size on electric wipers. Add the extra losses of going electric->vacuum->movement instead of right from electric to movement, and ask yourself if it looks like the pump is going to be powerful enough.
     
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  9. Budget36
    Joined: Nov 29, 2014
    Posts: 15,035

    Budget36
    Member

    I think a reserve will be all you need, well, depending on the roads you drive on. Ie up hills is when they mainly slow/stop, the reserve helps eliminate that, until it doesn’t.
    I’d start with just the reserve canister, then see if you need to improve it.
     
    RodStRace and Hillbilly Werewolf like this.
  10. alanp561
    Joined: Oct 1, 2017
    Posts: 5,326

    alanp561
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Here's the one that came on my '48. Looks to be factory with the little pancake check valve.
    20250204_091919.jpg
     

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