Technical ADDING A WATER PUMP DISC

The only way you'll notice it "working" is if you don't overheat and stay at the thermostat temp.

 

The lower impeller is a better designed impeller! That being said, that crude tin impeller may move more water at low speeds , but might cause turbulence. A lot depends on if your pump housing has a cu****er and where it is located. Also the location of the water coming into the pump housing.

PS: also the upper impeller would be more effective at lower speeds. The lower impeller needs a little speed to be effective.






Bones

 

Did you have your fan on your water pump?




Bones

 

Cheçk out mopar 440 water pump test in Google. A gent did a bunch of testing of 440 water pumps.

They measured only flow and output and surprisingly those with the vane design like the lower impeller did the worst, the best was a old factory hemi style. But its an interesting read.

 

Yes.

 

More than likely the increase fan speed was the major contributor to cooling your car, while in traffic.






Bones

 

The automotive water pump is a centrifugal pump. The inlet water enters at the center of the impeller, the spinning impeller flings the water to the outside where it is discharged. The efficiency of a centrifugal pump is largely based on a tight fit between the impeller blades and the housing so that the water can't leak around the blades. On the stamped steel impeller shown above there isn't a solid back. The riveted disc is supposed to enclose the back of the impeller so it is more like the cast impeller shown above. This should help to reduce the "leakage". It should make it more efficient, ie: more water is moved for each revolution of the impeller.

 

Not a doubt in my mind.

 

About 30 years ago I had some conversations with the guy who started Br***works, can’t remember his name. His premise was to reduce cavitation and any excess air in the cooling system because coolant without air bubbles or air pockets is the most efficient. I believe he came up impeller disk modification and then developed the Flowcooler line of water pumps. He was also an advocate of using a coolant recovery system to also eliminate excess air in the system. I have a Flowcooler pump and Br***works radiator on my ‘37 and it has never over heated in 30 years.

 

The Zips Riser has a screw in the top to bleed air from the system.



Randy told me about adding a GM vent valve bleeder to make it easier. HRP

 

I also like to use a 17" engine driven fan with the Zips riser, the sedan never runs hot, even in heavy stop and go bumper to bumper traffic, HRP

 

I replaced my fan with one like that.

 

I finally found the photo of the new pump, the one with the aluminum disc installed seems to have a deeper spaced impeller unlike the one I removed which hand a thicker cast metal disc. HRP



This is the one I removed, it was starting to make a lot of noise, it sure sounds a lot better. HRP