Adding electric fan

Hello, would appreciate another opinion on which fan to buy. I have a 1961 Belair with a Chevy 385 Fastburn in it, aluminum radiator from northern and aluminum belt driven high output water pump. The trans cooler is in front of radiator. I have a five blade driven fan with a clutch on it now and it works great for cruising in town and the highway, but every year when we go to back to the fifties and try to drive around (going very slow in traffic thru grounds) car gets hot. Wanted to switch over to electric fan with a fabricated shroud, will one 16 inch fan pulling 2500 cfm be enough or should I go with the 16 inch black magic fan that pulls 3300 ccm. big price difference between fans, 125.00 to 289.00, thats why I asked, thanks.

 

I'd try a good shroud for the mechanical fan. But, if you have to go electric, more CFM is always good. Can't have enough airflow, IMO. I'm looking to make a metal shroud for my T this summer. Just need to get off my ass before it gets hot here.

 

Have you tried it without the clutch. As big as your radiator is you might need two smaller ones to cover more area.

 

Just buy quality like a Spal. Others advertise cfm but it is false!

 

I'm running the Flexalite Black Magic 3300 CFM fan with a Meziere 50 GPM water pump on a supercharged 392 hemi. In stop and go traffic on a hot (90*+) day the engine temp will stay at 180* with the fan cycling on and off (thermostatically controlled). I put more emphasis on the electric water pump rather than the fan. Its pumping 50 GPM regardless of engine RPM.

 

Hands down Cooling Components Inc - just installed one each on two different cars and they are really quiet, pull like a freight train and are only 2 5/8" deep at the motor. they will fit where nothing else will. I have used SPAL, Maradyne and others - nothing, but nothing in aftermarket fans comes close to these puppies. But use a 70 amp relay - these puppies pack some punch....




www.coolingcomponentsinc.us.com/NewComp/shrouds.html

 

My set up is a Summit Aluminum Radiator, one Pusher from the front controlled by a switch when I need it on ( towing, 4 wheelin etc.) and one pullin from engine side t-stat controlled. Both are 16's, no shroud,with a 190 degree T-stat and out here in AZ desert I have yet to see the temp get over 190. That puts my SBC 350 at optimum warm up / operating temp and keeps it there. This is the second 4x4 Ive done this to with the same consistent result. ( both fans are the AutoZone brand and really work well) Ive run it this way since 2006. Hope this helps. God bless.

 

Or you can go this route,fans and shroud all in one:http://www.fordmuscleforums.com/cooling-articles/482048-junkyard-upgrade-dual-electric-fans.html

 

I prefer to use 1 large fan over two smaller ones, seems to be more efficient. It is also important to have a good shroud that is sealed to the radiator and allows air to be pulled from the full core. if you don't do this then no electric fan will help.

 

Here's a few tips:

1) For dimensions look at the catalogs available at the parts counter for Dorman brand fans, they list photos dimensions and specs.

2) A lot of the guys running electric fans in their pickups (its a rage around here) are running 2005/2006 Impala radiator fans, seem to work the best.

Having said that, and the reason for this, is that if you buy a replacement fan like a Dorman, it is a lifetime warranty item at places like oreilly's. Just my 2 cents.

 

X's 2
I would make/buy a shroud before anything else. The shroud should go all the way back to the center of the fan blades when looking from the side of the fan for best cooling. I just made one for my 50 Olds.

 

I put a Spal dual fan set up on my 64 Chev that is running a bored 348. It runs hot. The fan comes with it's own enclosure and was an easy install. I have it kicking on at 190 and it drops the temp back to 180 very quickly. I have been very pleased with it although it was expensive as I recall. The Ford Tauras or Merc Mystiques look to be a good deal if you have a yard near you.

 

I'm going this route-some good info.
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=486504

 

My choice is always SPAL, and put the biggest single puller version on that you can fit, wired through a relay.

Don

 

Have you thought it might not be your cooling components? I've read some threads on here where guys were having overheating problems at idle or slow speed but at higher speeds the car would run cooler. A couple of reasons for running hot at idle were using the wrong vacuum port on the intake for advancing the timing on the distributor or using a distributor that had no vacuum advance. Engine runs cooler when timing is advancing and hotter if timing is retarded. Just a thought.
It happened to me on a Buick 455 using an aftermarket Mallory distributor. Couldn't get the thing to run cool at idle but freeway speeds no problem. Nothing worked until I read about the distributor and advancing timing. Installed a stock HEI distributor and the problem was solved.

 

Have you checked to see if your clutch is working properly on your mechanical fan?

 

i agree. I have used several spauls and have not had any issues. higher priced but worth it.

 

You might consider an auxillary cooling system. My buddy's Austin gasser heated up whenever he idled in traffic, so he went on Fleabay and bought two large heater cores for under $15 ea. shipped. Used the heater loop on the engine to route hoses to each core and mounted them high inside the front fenders, with a 8" Spal fan on each core. Now when he gets stuck in traffic and the engine temps start to climb over 200 he flips the fan switch on and it drops back down around 185 and he can idle for hours without issue.

 

Spal,Spal,Spal.

 

I wanna throw a couple things out there.... I was heading down this same road, with my 40 over heating, after I put A/C on it. I have in front of my radiator, my A/C condenser, and a tranny cooler.

My flex fan was totally inadequate, I had an electric fan, then 2. The only thing they where, was a voltage drain, especially in slow traffic.. I have a thread on here called "which is better, 1 or 2"

My fix was a steel fan from speedway I think 17 inch, with 6 heavy pitched blades, which made a difference, but the real fix came when I made my shroud. There are some great threads on home made shrouds. The one I liked was made out of a steel garbage can. I made mine out of a recycling bin.

With my shroud in place, A/C on and 77 degree day I used to run about 190 to 210, now I am 160. The only other thing I might consider, is, In the 60s into the early 70s the pulley on the crank and water pump where the same. I may go bigger on the crank and smaller on the water pump, thus spinning the pump and fan faster at low speeds.... But I will only do that if I run hot this summer. I am running a stock copper radiator out of a 57 chevy truck....I almost spent the money on an aluminum, but man I am glad I tried the shroud first...

 

Noisy, noisy, noisy which is why I have now switched to Cooling Components Inc., which have all the pull of a big SPAL, have many factory shroud options and are whisper quiet - oh did I mention 2-5/8" deep at the motor. If you can't fit one of these then you just don't have room for an electric fan. I used to be a diehard SPAL guy but not any more....

 

If you can hear the fan over your motor you don't have enough motor.

Don

 

Shroud is best, but if going electric, Cooling Components Inc is my favorite.

 

Another thing to check, remove some of the webbing on the back side of the fan housing. All those little cross bars add up to a lot of resistance.


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