First I cut down the lifter bores 3/16 " to get at the adjuster bolts. If you have a good rotorey file it won't take very long. Saves time in the long run. I use a piece of .063" thick aluminum bent 90 degrees for my center punching gauge. Set it on the oil galley. Holes will be as low as possible and in a near perfect line. I use a 1/8 " pilot drill. Never broke a one. I adjust one lifter and lock the caliper at that size. Set all the rest on the bench. You will not be very far off on the remaining 15. Some times a few will be right on. I use a Cheaters Pete adjusting disc. One side for 8BA the other side for 48 and earlier. I bought two. About $55.00 each on ebay. Northern Tool 7/16" wrench with edges ground thin for even more clearance. Allen wrench works good for holding lifters that are not hollow. Not too fancy pointers.
Very good write-up; complete and very comprehensive. Adjustable lifters are traditional on the "hopped up" flathead, and I did a bunch of research and thinking about them. Since I am both lazy and cheap, I came up with an alternative method that should merit some consideration. That alternative is to use stock lifters. When I did my last flathead, I had concerns as to the quality and cost of the current aftermarket adjustable lifters. I had heard stories that they lacked the proper hardness and would come out of adjustment during use. The last thing I wanted to do is tear down a otherwise perfect engine and re-adjust the valves. I was able to get a set of NOS 8BA lifters from Southside Obsolete. They have the advantage of being much lighter and cheaper than the current adjustables. Then, the ***embly is just the way they did it back in the day; grind the valve stems to get the proper clearance. With reground cams and 75 years of wear, the stock valves can sometimes be too short. The solution is too either weld additional metal onto the stems, or, my preference, use replacement Chevrolet valves. These are easy to find, relatively cheap, and just enough longer than the Ford valves to get around the adjustment problem. Plus, it will take many tens of thousands of miles before they go out of adjustment. Finally, I just don't like the idea of drilling and grinding on a fresh block. Just another way to go.
that's the ticket. wish i'd known about chevy valves when i put a 400jr in my '70s-era shoebox. had to gap the stock valves at .020 instead of .018. pretty iffy!
Built 22 flathead engines in the last 3 years. Not one problem. I have 4 more GOOD blocks. Putting one 274 C I D together now. Going slow without help. Also have a **** 293 C I D ***embly in stock.
Would you mind sharing your source of adjustable lifters? There are a lot of "iffy" ones out there, and it would be good to know of a supplier of quality parts.
The engine I am building right now I am using hollow lifters from H & H. I only ordered one set to check them out. I am going to order 3 more sets tomorrow.
Also obtained lifters from Reds Headers 760 343 2590 or Red Hamilton. Speedway lifters the bolts fit so tight I didn't have the strength to turn them so I added this to my flathead ****nal. S S extension.
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