Technical Advice on Crankcase Evac System

I think the Idea with the collar is so you can adjust based on the valley on various setups. This is what they sent from Hilborn because of the 3 piece intake and shallow valley pan I believe.

 

Leakage past the rings is where the pressure originates. It may be more because the engine hasn't seated the rings. It may be more because you have a broken ring or poor assembly. You may have some bad or hard to seat rings.

The best thing you can do is to perform a leakdown test and see what the results are. You need to be sure that you don't have a major problem before looking for other solutions. If you have 11 to 1 compression, and poor ring seal..............Not what you wanted to hear, but its the best starting point.

 

Get it out and run it hard , get it hot ! it will clear up or blow up.

 

SOURCE - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase_ventilation_system

The above is a basic tutorial.

Without proper ventilation, oil becomes gasoline saturated and will not lubricate properly (breaks down). Water is also a by-product of combustion. Mix that with oil and other strange things begin to happen.

Somebody (and I won't mention names as he is still p!ssed at me it seems), has it figured out very nicely.

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The reason the DIST install is leaking is due to no o-ring (as does FORD Y-BLOCK) and excessive crankcase pressure (no ventilation).

 

Now that you changed the Breather to More Free flowing then fist Pic,
Do you Valve covers have the baffles under Breathers ?
Leak down test , Like others have said ,
Each cylinder,
You can all so run a vent off Fuel Pump block off plate ,,
& You can use a 0-15 psi gauge to see if Pressure buildup and what the number is off Fuel pump block off or Off dip stick,,, Waybe One of the cylinders
pressurizing the oil system slight blown head gasket but not blowing coolant out,
On one of my tunnel Ram set ups , I ran vents in Lifter Valley of the intake.

 

Its about a wash. Remember the pump is pulling oil from the separator which gets air from the valve cover anyways. Important thing is that pump must be able to make more vacuum than the separator sees or it can't remove the oil. The little pump will do 24" of vacuum.

 

You said it's not broken in yet- that's what i would focus on for clues - was it ever run in on a chassis dyno or engine dyno? There is a very short window where the rings have to break in with the crosshatch on the cylinder walls. The absolute best way to do that is wide open throttle putting good pressure on the backside of the rings. If that wasn't done on either a dyno or serious road blasts, then I would suspect that-depending on how many miles you have on it already.

But yes, please do a leak down test to confirm, once it's broken in. I wouldn't idle it much until it's broken in, either.

-rick

 

We’re out of town and been busy so I haven’t had a chance to comment again until now. You might consider applying some RTV to the inside of the split collar and also where the two halves meet. That won’t cure your crankcase pressure issue but it will help with the oil escaping there.

 

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Don’t run an evac system with mufflers. Creates too much back pressure. You’ll overcome your seals and gaskets. If you romp on it you’ll blow oil through your dipstick and possible blow the dipstick out of the tube.