Technical Advice on Wiring Looms, specifically universal 12v packages

Hi all,

After some recent run ins with the previous owners ‘handywork’ on my ‘51 Styleline.

I have come to the conclusion it really would benefit from a re-wire. It has been very crudely converted to 12v and it’s a fire waiting to happen.

A few friends have used a number of the available ‘universal’ wiring loom kits out there, all with a good degree of success. I’d like to keep it 12v as all the hardware is there and in good condition.

Thought I’d ask if there was a consensus here on a good product?

Also any tips and tricks for a good install, or tips to give it a more traditional look. As I appreciate these are marketed as quite ‘Street Rod’ friendly.

Obviously in an ideal world I’d like to make one from scratch but having a young family means I’m tight on funds and time.

Whilst I’m asking too, thoughts on turn signal switch units? It currently has a cheapie universal one and I’m not that keen on it. Should I try to find a factory unit?

Thanks in advance fellas

 

There are a couple of 12 and 14 circuit ones on Ebay for around $30! I bought a few now for budget projects out of curiosity and to be honest it's just as good as the $189.00 one. I've had no problems with it whatsoever in four different cars. No frills but they have good wire, decent fuse panels and are nicely put together. I can't buy the wire for $30. The ones I have use decent quality copper, not just coated, wire and all leads are clearly marked every six inches or so and properly sized. No idea why they're that cheap.

I will say that Painless uses a better quality insulation on their wire at the $400 plus price point but nothing I would have reservations on. All depends on what you want.

 

Rebel Wiring. USA made, great tech support, AND an Alliance vendor as well. I've used 2 and would buy one again but at 72 doubt I have another major project in me. JMO

 

Kwik Wire. I’ve used it on two vehicles.

 

Another idea is what I used. I used s centec fuse panel and a removed wiring harness from a stolen recovery Lincoln Town car. I was working I a Lincoln-Mercury dealership and a guy walked by with a huge ball of wiring, headed for the dumpster. I stopped him and asked about the wiring. Seems the car was stolen and the thieves removed all the electronic and electrical components but cutting the wires just behind the connectors. The insurance company popped for a new, complete car harness and the mechanic was told to toss the old one. Well, I was wiring my roadster at the time and grabbed the harness. I used all the Ford wires correct for each circuit and correct color coding. Next guy who get my car after I croak can easily diagnose any problem using a Ford Factory manual. T was cheap, reliable, and correct for Ford. You might check with insurance companies or GM dealers and see if something is available cheap. But, even if you don't do that, most aftermarket wiring harnesses default to GM color coding and wire gauging.

 

Thanks chaps, that's definitely a help!

Il look into the Rebel Wire kit.

 

Rebel will be fine

 

I have used both the Rebel and the American Auto wire 12? circuit. Both were good quality but I prefer the AAW fuse box design better

 

Rebel. Done. Problems? Call em, they talk to you like they're your pal. Wired my whole car for less than $200 including stuff not from them. Turn signal switch, hard to beat the tried and true Signal Stat still available at NAPA. There's a part# in my build thread. I made changes that added addl work like maintain the column twist light switch vs an unceremoniously added push/pull. Wasn't hard, and as to how to keep it somewhat "true" just cover some sections in the lacquered loom available from restoration supply shops. Not cheap but not out of most budgets. There's some of that visible in my build thread too.

 

I used a EZWire kit for my '65 f100. Reasonable price, and the quality was good. Converted to a one wire alternator while installing the kit. Pretty easy to do and I'll be danged...everything worked the first time! The hardest part to figure out was sorting g the Ford turn signal switch wiring. A conversion diagram was supplied, but instead of using the GM style connector, I used an 8 pin Deutch connector. Even that worked the first time!

 

I've used three Rebel kits, happy with all three. That said...if you are really down on money and long on time @deucemac suggestion is pretty good. The first time I wired the 38 Chevy I used the wiring out of a 57 Chevy including the fuse panel, that was 50 years ago

 

I'm at the same decision point (replacing wire my way) with my car. I've read nothing but good comments and good service from Rebel. I will be purchasing my Rebel kit this Winter. And as someone mentioned they are a HAMB vendor so you can get a discounted price. Good luck and happy motoring.

 

There are a couple of really good wiring threads here. You should read them before continuing. Whether to home brew or buy a kit, the advice in them is good.

For a more traditional look, get some lacing tape and use that to bundle your wires instead of the more common and non traditional zip ties.

 

Another vote for Rebel kits. Simple, good quality and easy to customize. I've used two 9-3 kits.

It depends really on what you want and what skill level you have.

I also bought wire from Rhode Island wire (cloth covered) to build the harness for my A. I think after the smoke clears I'll have more money into building my own, only because of the specific wire I wanted to use.

I also won a cheapo harness from a poker run and I'll try that on another car.

 

I used a Painless kit on my Model A. I'm currently finishing up an American Autowire kit on a 66 Olds 442. If I have to do another I'll use a Painless.

 

I bought a Speedway kit with the micro fuses. Yet to fit it but looks to be good enough quality.

 

Good god man, don't say that when talking about electrical stuff!

 

Here's a thread for you. Lots of good stuff here...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/rebel-wire-harness-diagrams-and-wiring-info.1120201/

and here...

https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/threads/wiring-101.843579/

 

Check out Coach Controls. A bit pricier but very nice quality and gives a bit less 90s era GM wiring vibes.

 

Rebel on this end!!

 

It is probably the most expensive option on the market...and the one I have used in my last two builds on the HAMB. This is the one in my 41 PU. I mounted it in the seat riser, if you're lost. All of the relays, flashers and circuits needed to build anything you can imagine...and then some.

 

I called Rebel because they are a HAMB vendor and only 20 miles down the road from me. Since my Model A is very basic and it's 6 volts, I got their 8-circuit kit with heavier wiring. When I start on my '46 Mercury, I'll go back for a kit with more circuits. Super nice people to deal with.

 

On my '48 Stylemaster, I just got a kit from Speedway. Worked fine.

 

buy 1/2 inch copex that is already split use 1'' bits for setting out
when you are finished place in the long lengths and pull up tight
get a short length of fatter copex
get some bullet connectors for the headlights
buy a gm style floor dip switch if you havn't got one on the column
fit a relay on the starter circuit
if you have a high demand ooga horn - fit a realy, especially if you have split the steering columns earth / ground route, you do not want high ampres running over the br*** horn contact
something about an aftermarket ignition switch and the accessorie tang, and dont use it

oh and IF you want to try and keep it factory and use the steering column flat plug BEFORE you start DO NOT TRY as they use the middle version of connector, designed for gm applications where the hi-lo dip switch is on the floor, hazard and turn in the column bell / switch, the connection spades are specific to that year of column, and the juice IS NOT wot]rth the squeeze, simply fit a modern molex type connector.

 

^^^Not to be harsh; but that black plastic split loom does not have any place on a hot rod.

 

That built in light is clutch! Love it.

 

Does if the owner wants it!

Ben

 

Nylon zip ties have been around since 1958

 

Split loom, that does not look like a 1980's GM car:

https://www.wirecare.com/category/braided-sleeving/split-tube-wraps/f6-woven-wrap

 

^^^^Damn that stuff is hard to use when you have arthritis. My hands hurt just looking at it.