I used to use them on my T Bucket. They worked well. But I switched to modern disc's after my accident. (Not brake related.)
Those look like 175 series calipers. I really wouldn't put them on anything much heavier than a hiboy A on '32 rails at the most. The solid rotors do heat soak pretty quick and fade soon there after. That said, I do have a set of 150s running right now on a customer's Bantam that I built a few years back, and in that instance, on a very light car ('bout 1800 lbs) with minimal contact patch (T-Bucket wires) they work great! Skip the soft pucks though... They **** and quickly are done on a street driven car. Hard is the way to go. And yes, Speedway does sell the caliper and parts for these today.
I ran a pair on the front of my Willys and they worked great. One started leaking so rather than rebuild I switched them for a pair of new Willwoods I had on hand. I will rebuild them one day as they will be going on a future project.
WE have here three fellows who went off the end of Shannonville with Airheart puck failures. The one car was bent slightly and a customer of mine bought it. I built a fixture for straightening the CM unkinked tubing and he used it to repair the car. The front axle had to be rebuilt So he sent that out for repair and narrowing. He asked me for a brake solution. I used a set of Dodge mini Van brakes after calculations showed they were more then up to the job. I built a set of pad spacers that set inside the pistons to bring the pads out to the Simpson hats and a set of blank pads to back up the other side. That was several years ago. The car has had two NHRA tag inspections since and has p***ed for 750 easily. The only trouble is it stops so well he hasn't used the laundry in over 5 years. I used the best pads I could find. Whole conversion took less then a day once the brackets were made. Far safer. The cost was not the issue. Absolute safety was. The first owner sold it because he had it happen twice and his wife would no longer let him drive it. It is a Dragster currently an alky dragster. The glue on pucks are **** on the airhearts and if they fail the piston exits and all brake hydraulic pressure is lost. That is what happened to all three at our local track. Two were diggers I supplied powerplants for and one was a fellow racer with a Chevy II serious lightweight door slammer. don
i have some on a ot tr7 triumph race car. runs 6.80 foot braking in 1/8 mile never had a prob but i service them once a year
i remember back in the 70s all the T bucket kit manufactures were using them in thier kits. i dont remember seeing them being used on any heavier cars. Posted using the Full Custom H.A.M.B. App!
Hey Kev, what does your Willys weigh? Just curious, as if you are running these and doing okap with them that might push my thoughts on weight up a bit...
Those are good for restorations only, and if they were recently pulled off a car they should be in good shape, maybe just a set of o-rings. Roo--- had a set of caliper housings digitized and going to try a machine billet version with 1 peice pistons and screw on pucks.
The last pair of 150s that I have ordered does have screw on pucks, and that is a major improvement. Thanks Kev, that makes me think a bit...
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