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Air lines in steel?

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by maddog, Nov 23, 2011.

  1. maddog
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 695

    maddog
    Member
    from So Cal

    OK, it looks like the York long stroke is the one to have. Good article here il6dime, thanks.
     
  2. tooljunkie
    Joined: Oct 18, 2010
    Posts: 209

    tooljunkie
    Member
    from manitoba

    the older mopars ran a piston type compressor,usually your best bet.
    lol,i just had a two cylinder on board air kit given to me,its still in my trunk,with electric clutch and idle up solenoid.
     
  3. i have had some school busses with SBC chevys with bele drive compressors
     
  4. Ii have this 12V in my wrecker
    3HEB-19-M350 1 12 V DC 1800 1/3 0,25 29 13,21HAB-19-M114 12V DC 1800 1/6 0,12 24 10,8

    with a 5 gal tank
    will run impact but should have more tank
    it is good with my big air bags
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2011
  5. I'm running refrigeration copper on my 36 with stainless compression fittings, has a burst pressure of 1200 psi. Looks super bitchin polished
     
  6. Insane 1
    Joined: Feb 13, 2005
    Posts: 974

    Insane 1
    Member
    from Ennis TX

    Ok as for the compression vs push loc -

    I run only Comozzi fittings. They are alot more expensive than most (and because of that alot of people wont use them) but they are good fitings, I don't use the plastic psh loc either. Trim the line straight and slide in and they are there. Dont belive me, shove in a piece of reinforced 3/8 and try pulling it out with out pulling the loc back.

    I've done several 1 tons that are daily driven with no issues.

    My beef w/compression is - get them too tight they keak, get them too loose they leak.

    Then need to pull a line off?? Now you have to cut the line, and unless you got extra room now the line is too short.

    But the biggest thing wrong w/them is every time you pull the line you have to install new ferrols. Then you don't have any extras cause they come with the fittings and unless you bought extras or just have a bunch in your pocket when you are on the side of the road..well your screwed.

    Every time a car came in the shop for repairs I always yank that crap and throw them the scrap bucket.
     
  7. brad chevy
    Joined: Nov 22, 2009
    Posts: 2,627

    brad chevy
    Member

    The push locks don't need the support thimble.. I use a razor knife to cut the plastic line then hit with emory cloth and small reamer to clean opening. Repairing trucks all the time the only time I use the push locks for is a quick fix on a roadcall to get the truck up and going until route is done. Only drawback to the push locks is after they have been on for a while they are a pain in the ass to take off. End up cutting the line and most times ending up short. Great idea for a quick repair .
     
  8. il6dime
    Joined: Jul 18, 2008
    Posts: 24

    il6dime
    Member
    from oklahoma

    I have a 9 gal. tank that 200 psi is just at ideal. Put your foot on the gas and cut that time in half! As I stated before 4x4 guys do all the time! So it can be done may or not be the best way but it works!
     
  9. il6dime
    Joined: Jul 18, 2008
    Posts: 24

    il6dime
    Member
    from oklahoma

    Push fittings form "The Parker Store" are mainly what I use and never had any real issues as for taking them off after awhile put a wrench that fits over your airline and push down on the locking ring and pull the fitting with the other hand! Sucks some times but beats thorwing away $15 a fitting!
     
  10. BISHOP
    Joined: Jul 16, 2006
    Posts: 2,570

    BISHOP
    Member

    I have done the job with stainless, and would never do it again. The plastic line doesnt look as pretty, but assembled correctly it doesnt leak. I would use the plastic line.
     
  11. maddog
    Joined: Sep 3, 2006
    Posts: 695

    maddog
    Member
    from So Cal

    Thanks everyone for the help. Couldn't do it without you! :)

    I got a York compressor today. Been reading up on it and I think its the way to go.

    Here is a PDF of the service and rebuild manual-
    http://www.164club.org/service/york.pdf
    This will come in handy.
     

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