Just upgraded my air ride bags. They were old and a couple of them were leaking. While talking to the guy at Air Ride Tech, I mentioned that my tires rub sometimes when going kind of fast around a corner. He asked if I was using 4 or 8 valves. I told him 4. He said that the air will shift from one side to the other if only using 4 valves, allowing the car to "lean". He recommended using 8 valves. I didn't think to ask about the switches. I hate to use 4 switches, 2 for up and 2 for down. I'm sure one of you guys has figured a way to use only 2 switches, probably by using some type of relay. HELP!!!
easy you just wire the 2 fill valves in the front together and the 2 dump valves in the front together and repeat for rear.
Given that each bag will need a slightly different pressure due to differences in corner weights, you really need to have 4 switches. You could wire it up to have 2 switches that actuate the solenoids to raise/lower to a rough height, then use the individual switches to tweak from there. There are fancy electronic systems that can raise/lower to preset pressures and heights with a single button, too, but they're $$$.
also is the rubbing in the front or rear??? I've seen and heard or people using 6 valves, 4 in front and 2 in back. as a thought
8 valves for sure. 4 does cause a hell of a roll. No matter what you use to try and stop the roll, the lines are still ran together. All that body weight pushing down on a wheel in a corner, will cause an air shift no matter what. Just did bags on a 64 caddy. Fat sob. Has 3 switches. One to power the soenoid for the compressors power ( i run 2 usually ) which runs key on ONLY power from the fuse panel. From there it goes to the 1st switch. From the switch it goes to the pressure switch mounted to the tank. From there it goes to the solenoid. This way I can kill the compressors if need be. For example, starting the car. Already takes 70 or so amps for the compressors. Then you add the starter. Thats a lot of drain for the battery at start up. I like that control. Next switch goes to both front up valves and both front down valves. It is a spring loaded 3 way switch. Next switch goes to both rear up and both rear down valves. That is unless you want that kind of play with your switches. For example, side to side, one wheel, etc... like a hydraulic car for example. That the more the better. But you can buy a prewired box if you want that type of thing. Also you do NOT need a different set of wires for each valve. To make it easier, use the same color for front up. Another color for front down... etc. Keeps it color coded. If you join both wires together in the are where the valves are, you only have one wire for each running to the front. So 5 wires total going to the rear. If that's how yours is set up. 4 switches one for each valve, is not necessary if your set up right. If the cups for your bag mounts are all the same height, shocks don't stop your suspension before it is at full height, etc... you don't need 4 switches. A tip: While putting all the valves and fitting together, write on the brass fitting, what it is for. Makes diagnostic work easier later if you have an issue some where. Better than guessing I think. If you have any questions at all, PM me. Glad to help.
I would disagree tring to "tweak" pressure adjustments like that will never be perfect, you would be better off raising the whole frontend then lowering each side to the pressure/ride hieght you want, but it is still never a sure thing. you would have to have a presure gauges for each wheel also. The same switches you have now but wired to 2 up valves and 2 down valves will work, there no reason to add more switches unless you want to. I have used several different combos with much success 6 valves works well too. 4 valves on the front and 2 rear. This will stop the front end side to side transfer you are concerened about and act as a swaybar. I have 8 valves but only use 2 of the 10 switches. MrC.
Heres a plan Install 2 valves and line from tank to left front tire 2 valves and line from tank to right front tire wire the 2 up valves together and the 2 down valves together 1 switch will now raise the front and lower it, the other switch will stay on the rear. now you have idependant front ( no air switching sides) and single rear . this is a 6 valve setup with 2 switches MrC.
Personally, I would say 8 valves for sure. Any time you tee anything you have the opportunity to get roll. If you want to run only 2 switches, make sure to keep your air line lengths the same between sides otherwise you will have to tweak side to side. I learned this the hard way trying to tuck everything off to the side on one of my installs. Worst case is that you have to lay it out (0 psi in the bags) as a reference and air it up from there to get it level My setup of choice is 4 switches in a row with switch extensions somewhere on the dash. Its pretty easy to active them simultaneously - 2 or 4 at a time, and feels just plain cool to lay your hand across them to go up or down, and you still have side to side control if you ever need it.
Definitely need to have each fronts on separate vlaves and switches. Back you can probably get by with both on same control valves and switch assy. Trying to put both fornts on the saem switch will probably result in one side being more pressure than the other. Just due to mfg tolerances and airflow in the lines.
Sounds like 4 switches is the "proper" way to go. I like what badsco said, "feels just plain cool to lay your hand across them to go up or down". That convinced me.
I'm running 8 solenoids, 4 switches in a row. The first 2 control the front, for levelling side to side. The third switch is for both rear bags at once, the rear is light and pretty evenly balanced, no need for side to side control. The fourth switch allows me to dump the air out of all the bags at once.
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