Ajustable flathead lifters

Doing the cam change thing in my '48 flathead Ford. New cam's in, had lifters resurfaced etc. Could someone post a step by step tech. on how to adjust the lifters, please.

 

http://www.btc-bci.com/~billben/lash.htm

not that much different than overhead valves.

 

Don't you also need to use a feeler gauge between the bottom of the valve and the adjustment bolt on the lifter? If you need a gauge, how much space between the valve and the lifter adjustment bolt?

 

isky calls for .014 for a max1. did you cam come with specs?

 

Had stocker reground to isky 400 jr specs.

 

I believe the 400JR calls for .018"

Check the Isky website - they've got all the specs for their current cams online.

 

I set my Isky 400jr at .018"

 

Thanks for the help, CAL

 

You may want to call Isky to make sure your exhaust gaps are the same as your intakes. I am currently running a max1 and I recall having two numbers to dial in to.

 

The easiest way to adjust your lifters in a flathead is to drill an 1/8 in hole in every one of the lifter holes. then you use an 1/8 in drift fin and a nomal wrench to adjust them. I used an old moters manual for the lifter clearance. I always set my lifters .001" wider than the book calls for so when the valves set in your clearance is just about right, and you don't have to take it back apart when it wears in. Just change the oil and go.

 

I've done the 1/8" hole trick too- that way you don't need the special lifter adjustment tools that are increasingly tough to come by.

 

If your lifter bores aren't drilled for pins and you have the heads off, it's a heck of alot easier to pull the valve guide bushing retainer and slide up the lifter to adjust the valves rather than messing with Johnson spanner wrenches.

 

If engine is still part way apart, this can be a shortcut: Remove the bolt-on cam gear, rotate cam with srewdriver draglink socket in ignition slot. Turn valve to full lift, rotate cam 180 degrees (visual is good enough) and you are on the heel.
If engine is together, make a tool for any future adjust: Stick a white painted tuna can to an old distrib rotor. Draw a line by a pointer or groove in distrib rim to mark each valve's setting location...line marked, say, #4X.
More than one valve will match each mark...you now can turn engine to align these marks and adjust quickly in the future. Replication of old tool...