Technical Alignment San Diego

Hey folks. New to San Diego. (NAVY) Looking to build some relationships and have fun. I have a 1954 Chevy 210 inline 6 with a T5 trans the swap was handled by J.G. Fab out of Ventura (Cool Dude). I am looking for a shop or shade tree homie in San Diego to work with. My immediate need is an alignment and for some one who understands we dont all have a mustang II nor do we all need one.

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I would call Sam's Alignment in National City. I havnt been there in a while but glad to see they are still in business. Sam and his partner were very familiar with old cars and I enjoyed hearing their stories of cops messing with them for being too low back in the day. I read their yelp reviews and it was exactly like I remembered. Good guys who do great work and love to chain smoke. Lol

 

Muerte...how bout some pics brother?

 

Tony what's his name has HAMB friendly cars and shops in Santee and Kearny Mesa. Only shop I know of that does spin balancing without taking the tire/wheel off the car.

 

Roger Daniels Alignment in Santee

 

Here is picture. New issue to trouble shoot before I can drive to get its alignment. I was driving round the block and the clutch stopped disengaging. The clutch was new when the T5 swap was done and worked fine but it has only been driven about 100 miles or so over the course of a few months.

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First pic is with the clutch pedal to the floor and the second is with it all the way let out. Pedal has good pressure. Only thing I can do is adjust the pedal with the a and b nuts seen in picture three. Full diagnostic from me (not a mechanical dude) with car off the trans with easly shift into all gears. The car will start fine in neutral. The car will try to start in gear but since the clutch is not disengaged it will leap forward. The only reason I got it home is I was in second when it stopped disengaging so it was a slow drive back to the garage with alot of rolling stops.

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Come see us at True Line in Cajon, we'll take good care of you. You find out who your friends are on here, don't ya?

 

Sorry Tony, thought your shop was in Santee! Have been treated right there for 20 years.

 

Sweet thanks all and tltony I will come see you as soon as I can get my clutch to disengage. Cajon would be quite a drive in second gear haha.

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And to make it clear I dont think J.G. did me wrong but having a major job like transmisson swap right before I move a few hundred miles away might not have been the right move on my part

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When the clutch did work, did it start to grab as soon as you lifted up the pedal? Looks like all mechanical linkage so I'm surprised it changed. Can you have some one push the pedal while you look at the clutch disk and try and turn it with a screw driver? Maybe the pilot bushing ceased.


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It grabbed right away and did not fully disengage until the pedal was on the floor. I will find an extra foot and try and give it a turn

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I'm not 100% positive on this , but judging from your pics , I believe you have the wrong throw out bearing for that arm... I believe that arm takes the long throw out bearing therefore your arm is traveling past center and possibly getting hung up on the end of the snout...

I believe that is the bearing for the later stamped steel arms.... Like I said not 100% sure on that but might wager on it...

 

Would it have worked before if it was the wrong one. I can fully observe the travel of the arm and throughout so if there is something to look for in its function let me know and I will watch for it.

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Possibly... The pedal may have traveled just enough extra to put it past that point and it got crooked on the end and is now stuck

 

I am pulling the clutch pedal down with one arm and can see fork and throughout bearing depress. I see a small movment in the pressure plate away from the flywheel but I do not see any separation of the disc from the flywheel. Where would I get a screw driver in to turn it?

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Plucked this photo off the net

 

Can't see w***up but it looks like the pressure plate fingers are in the disengaged position...pushed in.
I wonder if the pressure plate is junk. And it's hard to see but it almost appears the throwout has worn all the way into that pressure plate. Either way, it's gonna have to come apart for a look.
New post: Ohhhh, I can see better now..........looks like your pivot is too short. Or you have the wrong throwout bearing. I doubt the pressure plate will disengage enough before the fork binds in the throwout bearing. Wrong geometry. Should be ok with a longer pivot..

 

Also what kind of t-5 I... I put a 4cyl one behind a small Chevy without a spacer once cause I was told I could.... The clutch disc ran out of splines ... It was on the ragged edge of engaging and not engaging... I had to chamfer the hub and have southland clutch reverse the hub to make it work.... I think you may have a multiple problem... Perhaps that and the reason your pedal is stuck is the throwout bearing is crooked and not allowing return

 

I can sure see how a longer one would make it work best. It was however working yesterday so I think there is something else gone wrong. I fear the disc, pressure plate, flywheel or all three are to blame possible bound to one another


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I re- read your post ... I believe your symptoms are what I experienced with not using the spacer plate between the trans and bellhousing , luckily I caught my issue before ***embly...

 

I have the 235 truck bell housing and the spacer.

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I can totally see how the longer throwout would make a difference in the travel of the fork. The fork does not appear to bind just yet and I can even adjust it to depress more and I dont see it bind (doesnt mean it isnt binding) I just dont get why it worked the last 100 miles if the throwout size was the issue. Either way I am not sure if I am ready to tackle removeing the trans to inspect the clutch. I am not afraid of the work just the mechanical knowledge required to put it all back without making it worse.

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I'm thinking thirty two is onto something. There is a lot of the imput shaft showing in the pics. As you say it was only barley disengaging. It worked I till the clutch wore some and now you dont have enough travel. Some adjustment may make it work. But it may just slightly delay your problem until it does bind or go over center.


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I think you are onto something with it getting caught in the splines.
I have seen some on here machine a little off the clutch disc on the ****** end to gain a little clearance. Other option would be getting out the die grinder and extending the splines a bit.

 

Actually never mind, I just realized you are stuck on the clutch engaged side.

 

Just read this on another thread. ^
I was just looking at a pic of the stock clutch on my 54 with diaphragm pressure plate and I have the long throwout bearing. Something to look at. The angle is different on the fork too.

 

So looks like the general consensus is I need the long throwout. From what I can tell it is the long throwout for a 54 chevy. Can anyone confirm that the stock long throwout will work with input shaft of a T5 (88/89 S10)

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I adjusted it all the way until I could see the fork bind at the pivot and it separates the clutch disc from the flywheel but not enough to call it disengaged. At this point I am dumb founded how it ever worked with this throwout and the fork at such an angle. Now the big question is do I try and man up and drop the transmission in my garage with a floor jack and jack stands or is it time for a trip to the professionals?

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