I cut the bottoms. I like the extra head clearance when it's open. On mine (and I think yours too) there's a body line that "hides" the cut - most people never know it's a tilt front even with the cut - moreso because I left the hood still functional - something I would recommend if you haven't considered it. Other wise what about an air cylinder possibly??
What about mounting an electric accuator in the center to push it out? They aren't extremely expensive.
Here are a few pictures I have kept. The kit I have no idea who made it. I used the pictures to build one similar. The other pic was on Jalopy Journal I have not tried this style but it appears it would work great.
I think I'd add hatchback struts alongside the slide mechanism, so when you push it closed it compresses the struts, and when opening the struts will ***ist in pushing it forward. Just attach one end to the frontend, and let the other end fit against a recess you can build to center it. You'll have to make some sort of strap, or use a rubber insulated one hole strap to hold the strut body also. These struts are only a few dollars each if you dig through the wrecking yard and pull them off a hatchback. I also cut my lower fender drops off, and made mine just tilt without sliding forward. I can open it easily by myself with one hand, and I used Nissan PU hood latches to hold it closed and eliminate any hood pin installation.
I was wondering what you guys are using for your front ends? I did a 60 willys wagon using rams and pump from a convertable top <<!-- / message --><!-- sig --> __________________When the going gets tough the tough get going!
Well, I will agree there's a little more to it when you whack the fenders - at least there was for me. Each side "moved" differently when I cut mine - took me by surprise a little. So I can't blame you for wanting to avoid all that. I was thinking Bimba cylinders and a air compressor from a air shock car - GM had them - can find them cheap out of a boneyard as everyone wants the aftermarket ones now. I also like the idea of convertible cylinders - that's junk yardable. The "fancy" mechanism will accomplish the same effect you are going after. Think about how your hood opens - it's not a simple hinge - that's why it articulates as it does. Those "fancy" mechanisms will do the same thing. Can you post some progress pics?
Wow, I had no idea this picture was still around... I designed and built that in 1996 for my 51 Plymouth. Used an old set of ******* bars for the rails, and pickup tailgate hinges cut down for the stops. As far as opening it goes, I'd avoid anything electric as it will likely limit the amount of travel you can get. My advice, reinforce the hood scoop opening and use it as a handle. My final hood will have a DeSoto "scoop" opening with the latch hidden inside. I adapted a set of electric trunk closers in the lower firewall to grab the fender tips and lock everything down when you roll it shut. Here's a ****py cell pic of the same car with front end open. Haven't hit my head on the fender once...
I have a roll forward tilt nose on my 50 dodge g***er, my goal was to be able to open and close it myself. My first attempt with sliders worked ok testing ,but would not work with one man on the car.Next try I used garage door rollers ,made the track from angle turned up on edge. The track tilts towards the front of the car,when I release the catch the whole deal rolls forward and tilts up.
The one I'm putting together I just cut the bottom lip off were the fender bolts on by the rocker panel and used hood pins with a spring to push then off the pins. But I have cut the air boxs off and closed them in with sheet metal so the fenders don't hit them. They would rub them some if left on but a stainless steel rub plate could be put on the air box and a roller of some sort used. Then a hood spring mounted at the hinge point so it pulls tension on the spring when closed and helps lift the front end when being open, much like a hood works.
I thought this over and am having second thoughts. Air being compressible is a potential problem. If one side has more resistance than the other it could induce a bind into your system. It may also be "jerky" depending on how smooth the sliding action is. If you decide on going this route - the convertible top piston is a better choice IMHO. It would address those potential issues far better than air would.
The angle is very slight,it only takes a little extra push to set the latch the center of the hood tends to sag alittle so I made a small loop from ss sheetmetal tacked it on the cowl in the center and it lifts the hood just enough. The sun is just coming out I will take some pics.
I use garage door rollers also,used framerails for tracks very cheap and effective.Radiator support sits on studs to locate,lift up pull forward the wheels roll inside of frame horns then pivots on axle.Cost?nuttin,value? priceless!
Did you see the guy here that used a roller to push out the lower fender away from the body so he wouldn't have to trim the fenders? A simple solution is often the best one.
Anybody have good pix of these setups that slide forward then tilt? Posted from the TJJ App for iPhone & iPad
I didn't read the whole thread so I don't know if this has been mentioned....but I would have used heavy duty ball bearing drawer slides instead of telescoping steering shaft. Then one person could have done the sliding....then I would use a 12V linear actuator to do the work.
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