Technical Allen Syncrograph - Model E-316HD Resto

Thanks! Funny you mention Paramount, as I was doing a search for Xenon bulbs for Sun distributor machines last night, and a link to that company came up. Checking it out, it looked familiar, and I then recalled coming across it before years ago when I first got the machine. I think I might have even called and spoken to someone back then. Definitely a resource to keep in mind. They did a fantastic job on that Sun 680 for @Jmountainjr .

http://paramountd.com/parts.html

 

Finally had a look at all the paper in my file folder. Looks like at point I found additional
info. Even found a copy of the orig ad. It was only USD$75 and not the $250 I thought I paid. Holy Hell!

 

I’m actually now finally going to start to test this damn dist. Watching this YT vid as I go. They’re testing the Ford helmet style distributor on a Sun machine.

 

1. First removed the vacuum advance brake cylinder, spring, washer, and nut.

2. Adjusted dwell to “SET” on Dwell Meter scale using the SET knob, with middle knob positioned to “SET” position.

 

First hiccup. Manual mentions after setting the dwell meter to “SET”, next step (3) is to “Turn SCALE SELECTOR to RUN position. I do not see any such setting on any of knobs,





Hmmm…

 

Think it is the “CAM” position.

3. Block off one of the sets of points for dual breaker type. Vid mentions blocking off “left have set of points”. So I blocked off the same one - opposite the advance bolt/screw even though not quite the same on the Crab vs the Helmet in the vid. Manual mentions the same thing (6), but to block off the right hand set of points. Oh vey! To do this, I removed the rotor as it was in the way a bit.



Forgot to mention that vid mentions moving the distributor degree indicator to “0”. Using the “ruler” method, I had set it slightly off by 0.5 degrees. So, returned it back to “0”.

 

4. Basically following steps (7,8) in manual with middle selector knob set to “CAM”. The “CAM ANGLE” needle moves as it should (“SET”) when points are closed and “OK” on the scale even though manual says it should return to “0”. As I rotate the chuck by, needle settles at around 45 degrees between the extremes.

 

5. Skipping the “Poor insulation or league test”, next is step (11). I don’t have such a switch on my machine. Only one scale which is up to 5,000 rpm (engine).

 

6. Vid mentions setting if to the 1000 rpm scale on the Sun machine. Also, need to set rotation for “Left” direction. Vid then says to set rpm to 200. Manual vers off (12,13) and mentions running the distributor at between 3,000 and 4,000 rpm or at max speed of eng.



Hmmm…

 

Playing around with the speed, it seems something is not right. Seems distributor is turning slower than tach indicates. I now see that the drive motor actually moves in an arc relative to the drive wheel on the main distributor driveshaft. This now makes sense as the drive wheel on the motor is somewhat cone shaped. The main distributor driveshaft spins freely when rotated by hand. Hope I didn’t bugger anything up as someone mentioned about not adjusting the speed unless it’s running. Will need to break for supper. I purchased a cheap optical rpm meter off of Amazon last week, and will use that to compare rpms with what the tach is showing. Damn, this is a massive time sucker…

 

So, looking into the speed control, the lowest speed I can achieve according to the tach is 500 rpm. This based on the limit “stop” on the dial knob turning it CCW (decrease speed). Maximum speed will exceed the 5,000 rpm indicated by the needle on the meter going past that point. The speed dial still had about another full turn before hitting the limit “stop” on the dial knob turning CW (increase speed). At the lowest speed setting, the drive wheel of the main driveshaft is near the centre of the drive wheel on the motor. So, not sure if it can get much closer. I cures it should be capable of that based on the test procedures, but not sure how to make any such adjustments.

 

Should also mention, that I removed the drive adapter and distributor when I took the above pics. I noticed that when I switched the drive switch to “Left”, it wouldn’t turn unless I have it done help with my hand, so something could be binding.

Found this comment in an article I photocopied when I was gathering all the info in the previous pic. Interesting…

 

I need to know WTH this knob is for?

 

Next is to compare speed with optical meter.

 

Confirmed tach is not accurately measuring speed according to optical tack. Comparison of the two readings (cam rpm or driveshaft/chuck rpm):

Allen tach - 500 rpm
Optical tach - 174



Allen tach - 1000
Optical tach - 309



Allen tach - 1,500
Optical tach - 474



Allen tach - 2,000
Optical tech - 648



Allen tach - 2,500
Optical tach 818

 

So, the ratio in terms of the differences in measured speed vs indicated on the machine is about 3:1. Not sure what that means, or why it’s like that? Will ask my buddy.
The good news is that I could keep turning thd speed dial knob until I reached a measured maximum speed of 2,424 rpm. This would be very close to the maximum
speed indicated on the meter of 2,500 rpm. A difference of only 3%.



Check out the position of the drive wheel of the motor! Big difference from before at full scale reading of 2,500 rpm on the Allen tach.

 

Greased the acme style thread attached to the speed dial knob. It moves a steel block up/down that has a cable attached to it which moves the drive motor assy up/down. After adding some wheel bearing grease, it (speed disp knob) moves much easier now.



Appears some adjustments can be made using that threaded rod to dial in the motor position relative to the wheel on the driveshaft.

 

This thing that rides against the contacts on the driveshaft must be picking up the electrical signal for the tach. Wonder if I did something to it while cleaning the contact rings?