Projects Almost Funny - AWB Barracuda Funny Car Build

If that's all we have to worry about, I'll be fine

 

As far as edges, I've done it with 180 grit on a DA with dang near factory (HD) results. Can't remember now if I finished it with something a little finer, maybe 220/320. Been a while...

 

I'll give that a try. I tried my belt sander, it clogs the paper pretty quick.

 

We cut quite a bit of lexan here at work for using it for machine guards. A skil saw or table saw cuts it nice. A deburring knife for the sharp edges. Just have to be careful and don’t slip or you scratch the***** out of it. Thanks for taking the time to share your build. You do nice work


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You know every Tuesday I have lunch at a chassis shop, he uses this stuff to bond metal to fiberglass, when used with aluminum the aluminum will tear before the bond will give up.

 

Curious why he uses a sealant rather than an adhesive?

 

Sikaflex may be listed as a sealant but it is a great adhesive! It was used where I worked and it holds great!

 

cool....I already bought some panel bond stuff, so I'm all set

 

We had to cut and fit a lexan windshield in a homebuilt airplane. A tip that some homebuilders do to install lexan to give some forgiveness. The holes are drilled over sized and cut some poly fuel line bushings so that there is a cushion between the screws and the lexan. There are no sharp threads or hard contacts to crack the windshield. It has been in about 5 years with temperatures ranging between 35 below to 95 above.

 

Because it works !
Some of his cars go over 200 mph and he has never had a problem with separation.

 

That is a good tip! I always see plastic windows broken from where it is fastened.

 

When using Lexan do NOT tighten the screws tight!! As said it has to be able to move with temp changes. Lippy

 

Once again the HAMB notification of new posts on a watched thread let me down and I lost this thread for about 10 days, and I'm absolutely amazed at the progress in that time. Jim I try to make only posts of comment not needing an answer from you so as not to take up your time. But you have mentioned a schedule, and having some padding in it.
So now that you have brought up the subject, I'll ask just one question and then revert to my usual lurking and keeping my own thoughts to myself as much as possible.
And the question: Are you shooting for running Drag Week this Sept. Starting at Atlanta Dragway?

 

Yes, I'd like to take the car on Drag Week this year. If I don't get the new car done, I'll take my Chevy II. So it's not a big deal either way, but I'm sure working my**** off trying to get it done in time.

 

I hate to bother you with a correction in terminology and in your case, it may be correct, but none of my projects ever seem to be really done. If it was me, I'd be busting my**** trying to get it ready, haha.

 

I might just have to take a couple of days off work and go to Atlanta! Probably be the only way I'll ever get to meet the world famous Squirrel!

 

I sure would if I was within a short drive (****uming Berry Al is fairly close to Atlanta).

 

250 something miles up to Commerce GA, where the track is....

 

a short day's drive, for the Drag Week contestants

 

I will be there

 

Good news indeed, I plan to be there unless something very big or bad happens before then With Jim, RacerX, Hemi Joel, and Tricky Steve and possibly other HAMBers competing, HAMB will be well represented for sure
Yall keep an eye out for a grey bearded old fart on a mobility scooter, and most likely wearing a beat up old straw hat and most likely it'll be me

 

the hambs own band of brothers will be at drag week. almost all of them will be hemi powered.

 

Very interested on how the glass install works out. I'm wanting to install it in my '66, but need to keep the screws hidden or try and get it to work with just the seal.

This is a great thread BTW

 

VERY COOL- had no idea that you'll be in my neck of the woods that weekend!!!

I'll make sure to stop by and say hello, Jim!

 

thanks!

I removed the screws holding the metal parts on, after the panel bond adhesive set up. After it cured, I added a coat of Duraglass along the seam, then regular filler to smooth it out. It's about ready to put some primer on, and see how it does. The adhesive remains slightly flexible after it cures, so it will let things move around a tiny bit as the different parts expand and contract...at least, that's my understanding. And it's a strong adhesive. I don't expect it to come apart, but time will tell.

 

Jim the door will break before that panel bond does its good stuff we use it in our shop all the time and it has many more uses than just bonding stuff together we restored a 54 New Yorker with a hemi in it and the power steering pump mounts on the back of the generator it uses a weird non available lovejoy coupler to connect it we made one out of panel bond used a bit of mold release on the inside of the drive spuds and filled the spuds full of it and let it harden up and voila we had a coupler that has a bit of flex yet is durable as all get out it's been in there goin on two years now and has no signs of wear Your car is coming along nicely can't wait to see it run good luck on drag week


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Don't let him fool you.. He's got four of the prototype JF 427 robots working there with him. You have to look close. One of them has work boots on, and another has those Walmart Velcro sneakers. I got this figured out ;-)

 

Jim is a smart man to get the JF 427 robots working for him! It seems any time I get real people to help me, I seem to get a little less done, and the more "help" I have, the worse it gets. I think there tends to be more bs flowing when 3 or 4 real people are suppose to be working together on a hot rod project. Maybe its just me, or the guys that are helping me...Often its more fun with more help, but it sure seems to be less productive. Gene

 

Would you have a picture of the coupler you made? I have a project that needs a flexible coupler and maybe I can make something up using your idea.
I agree that bonded fibreglass or more one of the stronger materials makes a light, strong repair or replacement piece. In my old life, we would pull 7g on a fighter that had bonded wing tips, tail, and rudder, and the only failure I experienced was the loss of the rudder at the point of going through mach 1. The 8 ft slab scared the***** out of my wingman. His scream because he thought he was going to be decapitated was more disconcerting than the fact that I was thrown sideways when the rudder came off. The determination of the cause was thatwater had found a way into the structure, and because the water froze and expanded every time the plane climbed to altitude. The rudder separated right at the seam between the frame and the rudder.
There was also a bit of discussion of rivets, and I just wanted to add that aircraft rivets are extremely strong, and in almost 50 years of flying fighters and passenger aircraft, I encountered very few loose rivets. The riveted floats on float planes take a terrible beating and stand up extremely well. Other than a crash, I can't think of an automotive application where a structure would take the same kind of beating.
Bob

 

I'm not too worried about the car coming apart...at least, not those parts!

I started playing with fiberglass. Making fiberglass parts, that is. First is a headlight bucket. I have 3 steel ones to play with, they are the same part on left and right side of the car. The steel bucket weighs 1.6 lbs, and is spot welded to the fender. Since I'm making 'glass fenders, I decided to cut the buckets out (drill the spot welds), and make them as separate parts. I decided to try to make the bucket as a male part, using the original steel part as a female mold. The new part will be too small, but that's ok, it should still work. I dont know if I'll be able to get the thing to separate, this is kind of an experiment--and I have a couple more to use, if I mess this one up. I sanded the inside of the bucket, and coated it with wax, and covered the holes and the flange with sticky aluminum tape. And sprayed some PVA in it. Then brushed in two coats of white gel coat, and layed up two layers of 1.5 oz mat. I ended up tearing the mat into strips, sort of, to get it to conform to the weird shape more easily. I expect I didn't get the flange area properly laid onto the mold, so it'll probably have air pockets and won't work, or will need some rework to be able to use it. If I can get it apart, that is! It will teach me a lot, at least.