Alodine and the zinc die-cast rochester carb

Seen that some of you guys have been dipping carbs in Alodine with great results. I am messing with some old rochester carbs that are in good condition (no corrosion, etc), but the finish is a bit faded. I'd like to bring back the OEM dull green-gold color. I don't have access to bead blasting equipment. Can I just bathe the parts in carb-dip, rinse, dry, and dip in alodine, or is bead blast a vital step? Thanks!

 

Where can you get that in small quantities? I mean like a gallon or less? Anyone know?

 

I think local auto body stores can get you PPG DX-503 by the quart. Also check out aviation and marine shops. Quart size seems common.

I really like the results I saw on here... just wondering if anyone has tried it without glass beading first. Also, would some kind of aluminum etch help prep the surface for the alodine (ie PPG DX-533)?

BTW... I about F*#king choked when I called a carb resto shop to get quotes on chromating bare carb bodies. They must think everyone in the hobby is rolling in Barrett-Jackson kind of money.

 

Quarts for $16.50

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/alodine1201.php

 

When I did some 97's that way, they were bare from the monthlong partswasher bath they had. I used that stinky stuff that comes in a two gallon can with the tray built in. You guys probably shouldn't leave your carbs in for a whole month though, cause it started to etch into the zinc a bit. Try a couple days at a time.

When I dunked in the Alodine it was only for a minute or so. Gave a nice gray/green that looked new but old at the same time. Like it belonged on there.

 

Did you guys dilute the Alodine with water per the 3:1 directions on the label (Alodine 1201)?

Thanks!

Grey-green is what I am after... old OEM look, not the shiney over-restored BS you see from a lot of carb shops.

 

Yes, whatever the label said.

 

WOW! That's the nuts. Thanks for the tip. 81's look out.

 

Before on the left...after on the right. I don't remember diluting it though. This took 20 seconds in the bath.

 

We have alodine tanks at work.

We blast or sand everything, then dip it in "de-smutter" don't know what it is, then dip it in clean water, then alodine. (ours is heated) then clean water again.

The key to a really good finish is to get it out of the alodine and into the final rinse quickly so it does not streak, then use compressed air to dry it.

Also, we have an aerator in the alodine tank to keep it mixed.

I can find out what the de-smut stuff is and what temperature we heat it to if anyone likes.

By the way, don't try to alodine carbon steel. It will turn black and can ruin your mix.

 

Thanks, guys. That is what I love about this place... real world tech for the DIY guy! Ask this question on other boards and they'd tell you to drop hundreds on a professional carb resto.

One more question: The carb has pressed in brass restrictions - will alodine dip hurt these at all?

 

I have no idea what the reaction on brass would be but I can ask one of the fab shop guys tomorrow. Maybe we can scoop a little out and drop a piece of brass in it to see?

Any way you can press/drive them out, then press them back in?

 

Uncle Max on here has a lot of info about Alodine. As for the de-smut stuff, look for a post I did about how to polish anodized aluminum... it's mentioned there.

~Jason

 

Regarding brass parts.... They are not coming out easy, and they are relatively thin wall (fragile) parts. I don't want to push the issue. Also, the carb seems to have staked lead well plugs. Anyone know if the etch / alodine will harm these? I suppose I could try it and see...

 

According to the instructions on the container, it is suggested that you brush the chemical on. Why not try it in these areas with a brush and see what happens??? This way you won't trash the whole bucket if it don't.

 

Thanks for tips on small qtys. guys. I guess I was dealing with industrial suppliers and only found 55 gal. drums of the stuff.

 

I suspect the Alodine results may be like zinc plating results If you want a "brighter" or shinier finish then the underlying part may need to be slicker. For example, when you send bolts out to be zinc plated (clear zinc= silver color, yellow zinc= gold color) if you sandblast them with sugar sand or something coarser, the zinc finish tends to be duller. Glassbead the bolts or glass bead and then wire wheel them 'til they're shiny and the zinc plate will be correspondingly shiny.

This MAY apply to Alodine also....going to give it a try. A metal plating place here told me "shiny in, shiny out, dull in, dull out".