Register now to get rid of these ads!

Technical Altenator for 57 T-Bird

Discussion in 'The Hokey Ass Message Board' started by Fat Fender, Mar 23, 2015.

  1. Fat Fender
    Joined: Apr 5, 2005
    Posts: 18

    Fat Fender
    Member

    I need help with converting my generator 1957 Thunderbird to an altenator. What altenator works best and how is the wiring changed?
     
  2. d2_willys
    Joined: Sep 8, 2007
    Posts: 4,317

    d2_willys
    Member
    from Kansas

    If it were me, I would get an alternator from a 1965-70 Ford car and use that. You will need the regulator to go with it too.
    Now if you want to just get an alternator into your car and don't care who makes it, I would get a Delco 10 or 12 SI and use that. Very simple to wire and they are cheap.
     
  3. 57JoeFoMoPar
    Joined: Sep 14, 2004
    Posts: 6,352

    57JoeFoMoPar
    Member

    I personally don't think you can go wrong with the function of just a general GM 1 wire alternator. They put out 80 amps and are internally regulated. There really is no wiring to change. Simply run a wire from the one pole on the alternator to the positive battery terminal. That's it. The problem with the GM alternator is that it looks like, well, a GM alternator. I'm not sure how concerned you are with looks vs. functionality, but a Powergen is an option, which is a 1 wire alternator in what is designed to look like a generator housing. Much more attractive, but also much more expensive.

    After swapping a GM alternator in to a buddy's car that came equipped with a 221 SBF that had a generator, we realized the GM alternator had mounting ears in the same location as the Ford unit, except for the lower (non-threaded) mount on the Ford accepts a 7/16 coarse thread bolt whereas the GM unit is drilled for a 3/8-16 bolt. Simply running a drill bit through the lower hole to open it allowed the GM unit to bolt in place with only a spacer to account for the smaller alternator and a new swing arm for the top .

    That being said, Fords of your year were equipped with 30A generators, and the wiring is not meant for the high demand accessories we like to run now. There is a 30A fuse in the back of your headlight switch that pretty much all of your electric runs through. Before my car was rewired with a modern fuse panel and harness, I found that if I was driving with my halogen headlights on, the engine with electronic ignition running, the electric windshield wipers, working, and defroster and stereo on, it would pop the 30A fuse. That also means that it's cold, dark and raining. The car had to be rewired to ultimately fix the issue. Good luck!
     

Share This Page

Register now to get rid of these ads!

Archive

Copyright © 1995-2021 The Jalopy Journal: Steal our stuff, we'll kick your teeth in. Terms of Service. Privacy Policy.

Atomic Industry
Forum software by XenForo™ ©2010-2014 XenForo Ltd.