Technical Alternator alignment issue

I have a 1958 GMC truck with a 270 engine. Am switching to an alternator. Bought this alternator bracket from truckandcarshop but now the alt doesn't line up? It is moved as much as it can towards the radiator.
What should I do now??
Thanks in advance

 

A photo of the bottom of the alternator, showing bracket configuration would help in ***essing a solution. Bottom line though, the alternator needs to go forward. whether you can alter the bracket or have to replace it with something else is the question.

Was the bracket sold as the correct item for this particular conversion or is it a generic bracket?

Ray

 

can you remove some of the offset of the mounts? I top adjustable mount doesn't need to dog leg back like it does. The bottom I can't see.

 

We need to see the bottom alternator bracket.
The top bracket looks like the dog-leg needs reversed (turn the bracket over).

 

Flip it over then the dogleg will be pointing forward or, space it out with washers and a longer bolt or, build your own mounts. Can't comment on the bottom mount without a pic.

 

Went to the truckandcarshop site. It states it is for 55-59 6 cylinder.

 

I bet this bracket is for the 235 engine and wont work with the 270.I used this bracket on my 235 without an issue. Guess there really is a difference between the two engine types , huh.
Who sells an alt bracket that will work with the 270engine????

 

might see if I can use the generator mount for the alternator.....

 

thinkin' your going in the right direction - Jimmie motor is a little different than Chevy

 

Get a Flat piece of metal longer than the bracket, bolt it to the block. figure out where the alt wants to be and then drill and tap it for some bolts,and bolt the bracket
to it

 

The problem with that idea is there is that wishbone piece of metal in the way.

 

where can I find a hollow spacer to use with the generator bracket?

 

I can't follow what you need the spacer for, but I would get a 1/4" black iron pipe ****** from a hardware store, home depot, etc.

They come in different lengths. Cut off the threads to get a spacer.

A 3/8" bolt that alternators use on the pivot, should fit in the 1/4 pipe.

 

I would return the one you have now, saying that it doesn't fit, and make one of these;
http://www.ecklerstrucks.com/chevy-truck-alternator-bracket-6-cylinder-1947-1962.html

It looks like the bottom bracket has a bolt and spacer. Maybe you can use a bolt
and spacer on your generator mount.

 

Is it also possible to run a dual pulley on the alternator and run the belt on the outer pulley?

 

Lots of washers. Figure out what you need, put a bolt through to hold them together and run a bead of weld down each side.

 

this is what I have-

 

that's how far forward I would need to move the generator bracket

 

I'm thinking of finding U channel 8" long and make own holes

 

Go to Home Depot's electrical conduit aisle. Look for the unistrut section. You'll find everything you need to build your own bracket.

Jack E/NJ

 

Either you cut a chunk off the alt to clear the motor mount bracket or make your own lower bracket. Get some plate steel the same thickness as stock bracket and position the alt above the motor mount.

 

Line up stuff,and shim accordingly........... isn't brain surgery......
Not knocking you,just isn't that difficult. line up your pulleys,and bend /shape/shim from there........

 

Sorry for being "ignant" Just drill a hole in the bottom mount, to move it forward some,till the pulley's align.
the rest should be self explanatory......

 

Understand about top bracket.I am working on the bottom bracket. The black bracket ,pics in the early part of this thread, is for a 235engine.The last few pics show the original generator bracket ; where it needs to be. The bracket isn't long enough now . you can see the original holes are about 1.5" back . the rear"hole" would hit right in the bend.I am not sure how unistrut would work; but will look into it at work tomorrow.

 

Here's what you'll find in the Home Depot unistrut section. You oughta be able to see the possibilities. This stuff ***embled is incredibly strong.



Jack E/NJ

 

I see you are in Texas go to Tractor Supply and get there universal alternator bracket.

 

Hey man, I had an issue like this many years ago when I first started working on cars and didn't know how to weld yet. All good. Let's try to figure this out together.

It looks like the bracket you have isn't really that far off. My first instinct would be to drill/open up the holes so you could move the whole bracket forward with the alternator, and with the bottom bracket where it needs to be, your pulleys will line up. Obviously this will leave you with either a single large hole, oblong hole, or 2 separate holes for mounting the bracket to the block. That's fine. Use a large thick washer and crank that ***** down. It'll stay put. It seems that the upper arm will align if you get the alternator as a whole forward enough. So I'd start by getting that lower bracket squared away, and attacking the upper bracket as necessary. If the upper ear of the alternator strips (it's aluminum, it happens) you can always put a through bolt with a nut and tighten it down.

 

Get you a piece of right angle stock (1/4 " thick) that is about the two inches longer than the aftermarket bracket. Drill two thru holes on one side to mount to block making sure that there is about two inches added toward the front of engine. Then mount the right angle bracket to block. Then on undrilled side take the alternator mounted to the aftermarket bracket and line up alternator with water pump pulley (use a straight edge). Now mark the undrilled side using the bolt holes on the aftermarket bracket. Drill the marked holes to allow for 5/16 co**** or fine thread to be tapped. Tap the holes. Now bolt the whole thing together.

As far as the adjusting bar, simply bend for alignment.

 

some gr8 ideas.....