Alternator off rear end....???

Trust me dude, you don't have to remove the T/C or the flexplate. I've replaced it once just to see how hard it would be. It was easy.

What would happen if the rear main let go??? ...please enlighten me.

 

well, maybe we stole the thread, but seems like really good ideas for alternate alternator locations

Von Rigg, that racemate is not cheap,but if you think about it - it does eliminate some other costs - water pump and alternator for me seperate could be $400.00, etc

I wouldnt say it is the most tradiational looking piece, but think it could be a nice touch

 

True..you got a point there

 

Thanks BENT , thats the one i was tryin to find ......

 

Simple update ModelAMafia...get an underdrive alt pulley. Pretty common for Ford alts. Job done...have fun. Except the Optima. Is there such a thing as a "good" one anymore? All the classic guys jumped on the 6 volt versions but they don't last.

 

Yes your right, I made up an adjustable idler for mine but for some reason have no pics.

 

Gilmer belt works.

 

Lessee...more girl, R&P steering, Optima life: The R&P is Honda Civic, inside front crossmember (open on bottom for access), with a steering rod alongside frame rail to a double U-joint to the column. My Yellowtop is about 5 years old and seems to be doing fine. I use a Jabsco marine electric water pump, it draws about 5 amps.

Don Ross of Garland, TX is my pro builder. He built the frame from scratch, did all the custom aluminum pieces and heavy lifting, and we assembled the car in an unheated farm shed in the winter (you gotta love this sport).

 

I think that is a pretty cool idea. Making the mounts for the inner section might be a little tricky.

 

I called Race Mate about the wp/alt setup, The street version for a BB Chevy is $848.00. The only problem I see with it is I asked them about parts replacements and the parts are not an over the counter replacement if you lose an Alt while on the road. They said that the parts were specific to their alt.

 

So Yugo buy 2.

 

I've wanted to do the same thing. Just a little worried about charging abilities.

 

Racers slot the holes in the waterpump for fine adjustment. Some race pumps are made that way with jack screws in the top holes. Even the timing belt drive needs to be on an exact center to center dimension which requires adjustment of the pump.

Another way is to make a 2 part pulley that can be adjusted for width with shims in order to adjust the belt. Otherwise you would need the pulleys to be custom made to fit the belt length.