I recently swapped an iron 2 bll intake for an aluminum Edelbrock 2101 4 bll. All went well except for the water neck which began leaking. It's one of those cheap Taiwanese pot metal "chrome" things. I was advised to find either an iron one or an aluminum one. I went for aluminum. That worked. No leaks now. However, the alternator tensioning bracket was mounted in two places: on a bolt on the water pump and also on one of the bolt of the water neck. That was fine when the water neck had bolts that could take a washer. the new water neck has countersunk holes for the new bolts so I can't use a washer. So I need a new tensioner. I don't want to buy a new alternator or bracket because that is fine. I'm sure someone somewhere must've faced this problem so I'm looking for suggestions. I found a pic of a homemade tensioner that someone made here: http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/3/1836/4541/29589770015_large.jpg which looks basically like a turnbuckle. Is that a good idea? Any advice useful at this point. I don't have a serpentine belt or anything fancy. This engine's from a 1970 corvette and has separate belts for the alternator and the power steering
Yes. The turnbuckle trick works well. So well, in fact, that March performance uses a turnbuckle on their kits. I have one on my O/T car, and have used the hardware store model on other cars. The hardware store kind is about $75 cheaper...works about as well as the fancy kind.
Look in the NAPA catalog and pick another water outlet. They show lots of different styles. There is an Aluminum one for trucks that has the temp sensor on top, it worked great for me.
Mount the water neck with a stud the alternator bracket is thick enough it won't deflect into the counter sink. Sent via Illinois Bell Telephone Company's Car Radiotelephone