Aluminum connecting rods?? Where'd they go??

And I am in 100% agreement as far as putting them in a 305. Personally, I would just throw a stock set of rods and a set KB(oom) pistons in. Spending big $$ on rods for a 305 makes no sense whatsoever. My reasons for prefering forged aluminum rods in big hp limited street use engines are briefly outlined in post #61 at the top of this page. Its not because of any wieght savings, they will absorb some of the punishment that more "rigid" (for lack of a better term) steel rods will p*** straight on to the main webs, main caps and crank, and enable the use of a stock block and low-buck crank at power/stress levels where they would otherwise be hard-pressed to survive. I know you know this, but for the others, if you think BME rods are expensive, compare the cost to a set of high end steel rods, a billet crank, and an aftermarket block. I actually use the BME rods because it enables me to shortcut on the block and crank, which results in a net $$ savings, and makes for a bottom end that has a reasonable life expectancy.

Oh yes, and once you get past all the standard cylinder head/induction tract stuff, ring packages, as well as oil control (they go hand in hand) is where the REAL power is. But thats a whole 'nother subject.

 

This piston is something we use when worried about friction....

And proof I will use an alum rod when it's needed.....

 

And you are correct about "shock absorber" effect aluminum rods have on mains and cranks, when using stock blocks.........BUT like anything else,an engine should be built with the quality of parts representative to the power, and use expected to be achieved.
If making real power one should step up when needing better than stock blocks,cranks and so fourth.

What do you think George..... Now we could start debating what blocks and cranks we should use........lol.... What did we ever do before the internet...lol...... Maybe a later one..... I think we derailed this thread enough.

 

Well, at least now this thread is turning into a reasonable conversation where some useful info is being discussed (especially if a guy reads between the lines a little) rather than a ******** fest based on old wifes tales, biased and un-informed opinions, supposition and BS...

Hey, is that Oldsmobile gold on the top of that piston?? looks like you have an aluminum termite infestation there...

 

Damn I was editing when you replied... You Better reread.ha!

283 sbc superstock on the gold....

Now if you start looking close at the other pic there is something I know you've never seen before.... Cause it's another first in the world project that we've done.

Think I should start a thread on that?

 

As far as the block/crank thing, I am just a backyard builder with a home-built flow bench that builds street-racer motors that make good power on a tight budget. Thats my "thing" and I have had some success at it. There have been more than a few guys who were left wondering just how the hell I make the power I do with 40 yr old iron heads, and blocks and cranks from pick-up trucks.

 

Billit Alum. block?

 

It is .......the first is not the what,but the who.....

 

I'd love to ask what those 283 slugs wiegh, but I'm pretty sure you aint gonna say on here. Man, those are some big holes. LOL! As far as the editing, thoughts like this NEED to be edited, I know for me, what I INTEND to say is perfectly clear in my head, but when I look at what I've typed, I realize theres a lot of room for someone to mis-read it, and I usually have to go back and edit it a couple times.

As far as thermal barriers, theres something that really can be of benefit to mildish street-driven HAMB type motors, especially if you start applying it to the face of the intake valve. Guys fail to grasp ALL the benefits of big compression in street motors, in terms of manifold vacuum, part throttle fuel economy, driveability, and the opening up of camshaft selection. But thats a subject for a whole 'nother thread. I tend to get easily frustrated when discussing engine tech on here, because alot gets lost in the cacophony.
If guys look at these last few posts, and read closely and think, theres alot of useful info here.

 

Wow. 13 posts by falcongeorge on aluminum rods, mostly arguing and splitting hairs. The original poster only made one post.

I bet he's reading this and eating popcorn.

My .02? It's a 305. Aluminum rods? Seriously?

 

Its a "rocket", Right?

 

uhm, 14?

 

Actually, I watched this thread for a loooong time before the sheer quan***y of complete ******** became intolerable. Dont worry, next time, I'll just sit back, watch the circus, laugh, and munch my popcorn. Thats what I do on 98% of the so called "engine tech" threads on here...

 

If you tech-no-logical fellas understood Fat Hack (long timers) you'd understand where and why he is coming from. Now, from a truly outsiders perspective why would guys put so much effort and spend millions of dollars just to drive in circles really fast? Any of you have a good set to sell dirt cheap to the OP?

 

Don't get your ******* in a bunch there Slammed......First... I knew nothing of his 305 thread(if I did read or reply ,I didn't realize it was same guy)until I searched for his previous posts.So now I see he wants to throw some parts at a performance 305 build....OK no problem.

Second....Why do you cruise the boulevard?Why do we race?......cause we can!Still don't see a problem.

Third...
Don't have any used aluminum rods to sell,But I do have a new set of small journal 6.125 Crowers that can be bought for half price or less......he could offset grind the crank(that odds are needs reground anyway)and make 3 9/16 stroker.......then a set of pistons with proper compression height.....motor like his build would benefit from a long rod.


Tony

 

Oh my...look where we are!

Is the Op a troll. just out fishing?...C'mon...305?..lmbo!

But informative replies none the less!

OT...but thinking of stroking my riding lawn mower....but want some more ooomph.

Blower rec's?

 

Sure, why not???... Looks like you have a TiN coating on the piston deck.... Why not on the skirts where it whould do the most good???...

 

Naaa... I think he ordered an extra large pizza and a case of beer and invited a few of his buddys to read this thread and get a good laugh....

 

There are coatings on the skirts as well as the lids.

 

I worked in a shop that built mostly semi-pro and pro race engines, I was an engine builder myself for a number of years, and I have been around ***orted types of racing. So, your simple answer is yes.

 

Regardless of whether they wear out or not, the best reason to not use aluminum rods is they take up so much space. I'd rather have that space be used by stroke.

 

While I can't speak for falcongeorge, I think close to 100% of the people who call Japanese people and things Japanese Jap/**** intend nothing derogatory. Maybe it has negative connotations at one time, but if so that seems to have faded away in the mind of the general public.

 

Not to get off on another direction, but before we ran the Miller rods we used the Brooks 88's. They were a very dependable rod for sure. We could send them back and have the little end bushed a couple of times before we took them out of service. JC

 

Al, this is one case where you can speak for me, I REALLY didnt mean it in that way, I was just being lazy, saving keystrokes, wasnt intended as any kind of racial slur. When c10 pointed it out, I went back and changed it.
Not very often I offend accidentally, usually its 100% intentional.

 

Alum rods work on the street, no HP gains over steel..They cushion the crank on very hard hitting motors, NITRO, BLOWER, etc....If running on the street, make sure you have very good side clearance and keep the oil below 220*...Happy Motoring...

 

From what I'm seeing in this thread, you can buy a heck of a lot of gas for what the aluminum rods cost for a barely noticable gain in power. Not to discourage or anything, but it seems like you could do other things to gain power and not spend as much money.

 

Not to say anything derogatory about the poster but it is fathack, it may just be a dream build.

Nothing wrong with dreaming without dreamers we would still be living under a tree and eating our food raw.

 

Rusty, the reason for running aluminum rods isn't to make more power, the reason for running aluminum rods is to enable the engine to LIVE at very high power levels without tearing up the main webs and caps, as many guys have posted on this thread. Even Goatroper has acknowleged this, and he is not a fan.
There is no way in hell I would recommend using forged aluminum rods in a 6000 rpm, 400hp driver, not because I would be concerned that they wouldn't live, but because theres no reason to, they are expensive, and force you to compromise on deck and side clearances compared to steel rods. But if you are building a stock-block/crank serious street racer 600+ hp small block or 700+ hp bb, in most cases, they would be my first choice.

 

..... Or, you could settle for a set of GM "pink" rods for only????... $265.00 a set... If your building a "mild" 400 hp (sbc) street motor..

 

Wow...LOTS of information and...other stuff posted here! Thanks to all who made positive contributions to the post, addressing the original question at hand. The engine I'm doing this time is based on a 305 block, but will be de-stroked to 291 cubic inches via use of a 327 crank and a .040" overbore. The local warehouse I deal with pushes Eagle rods and claims them to be 'good enough' for this type of thing. My gut has me leaning towards Callies for quality and durability.

Sure, good rods aren't cheap...but that's kind of the point...buy the best pieces the FIRST time and you won't be buying replacements down the road!

Again, thanks to those who took the time to lend credible replies to this post.