Technical Amp draw readings

This may be a stupid question for a hot rod but its never stopped me before. The battery is in the trunk, you don't have a trunk door light hooked up that you forgot about do you? That's my stupid question of the day (I try to limit it to one). I vote bad battery also.

 

Omarsvette, that big Sears 2/40/200 is my main charger that I use the most, because it’s on rollers and is handy. But I have probably five more chargers that work.... and some that don’t. Lol I’m a ****er for a battery charger at a garage sale, swap meet. $5 I’ll take a chance! But I have a lot of vehicles, that I don’t drive much in the Winter.
That’s why I was surprised when you said you didn’t have a battery charger. Once you get one, you’ll wonder how you lived without one! Or at least I can’t live without mine! I’ve had to repair my clamps twice on my big one!







Bones

 

I don’t have a trunk light, nor interior light, I do have rolled up wires that I’m not using. I did pop those fuses out but didn’t change my milliamperes draw.

Although the 6-12v converter box is connected to my steering column and is getting consistent 12v , key on or off.

I feel there is no stupid question. I Mean look at the questions I’m asking here lol. Sometimes I get nervous because some people can answer very condescending. When we are all hot rodders, none of us are born with this knowledge, but we learn from asking.

 

This the one you got bones? I also saw a Schumacher brand for $200.

 

Bingo! Mine is a lot older, but this is the new version of mine.
Sears doesn’t make anything, they just have manufacturers put Sears label/ logo on their products. The one in your pic could well be a Schumacher, in Sears clothes!
We’ve got one on the ranch we have used for years! My son gave me mine for Christmas, 10 or 15 years ago, both working fine!






Bones

 

Ok ima make that a priority in the next couple weeks, I’m rushing to pay off my paint job so I can start on the roadster.

 

I bet that is the source of your tiny amp draw. But not likely to have anything to do with the battery problem.

 

I want to think the same, but maybe overtime it is?

 

Went to have o Riley check the battery while in the car and it tested bad, surprise. Replace it with a new one.

I got to thinking about my voltage reducer box at work. I have it connected to full power on the column so my three gauges are always reading. I switch it over to accessory then tested amp draw. To my surprise I still read .13miliamps, so I tried the test light and it didn’t come on. Maybe that’s my problem.....

 

Sounds like you are getting close to a resolution!

Phil

 

But on the 27th it was good?

And that is why I have very little confidence in the conductance battery testers. I have had 3 different batteries that acted like yours. they all tested OK at Orielly's. After they died overnight again, I retested with a cheap load tester and replaced the batteries. No more problems.

Operator problem or design issue, I don't know, but they are not the definitive test IMO.

 

Thanks all for the help. I got the problem figured, as some of you mentioned, it was the converter box connected direct. I’ve left the car for a couple days with no draw.

 

I’m glad you got your problem fixed, but I wouldn’t trust your meter any farther that I could throw a Buick.


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If they indicate a battery is defective, it is almost certainly bad. If on the other hand they indicate a battery is OK, it might be. A carbon-pile test for 10 to 15 seconds at 1/2 the rated CCA will definitely tell the tale.