Hey guys!!! So I just got my rear model A spring in that I bought on ebay! Pics will come soon. We also will be able to start boxing the frame soon, now that D_Lazaris and his dad are done with his 1958 TE-440 Chassis Research rebuild. Here is the link of the rebuild! http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=625706
I would have to agree with Don about the frame. A frame made from tubing will give you a great platform to build on. That old T frame will take more work and $$$ to bring it up to standard than the new one will. There's a set of plans at wwwtbucketplans.com that you can download for free. You can find lots of help here or at the T-bucketeers site. Here's a '56 292 y-block in a '27 steel body; And here's my '25; Ron
good on you, amy. two things about the stock frame: 1. it's not only extremely cool that you have the numbers matching frame, but even better that you're going to use it, & 2. "back in the day" there were lots of "T"s drag raced that had way too much horsepower stuffed in them that used boxed "T" frames, so i doubt that you'll experience any problems with the y-block in there. about the 9"; i've got 3 banjos, but am going to use a 9" in my t modified. it'll be hanging out there with absolutely nothing behind it and i think it'll look just fine. edit: youngster is correct that it'll take some work to make the stock frame useable for your v-8, but i believe that it'll be worth it.
Cool looking project. I'm building a 25 as well. Mine was a old C-cab pick up that someone cut the top off of. Its on a model A frame with a 289 and 8 inch rear end. Look forward to seeing your progress....
You got a good start going there. You lucked out finding that Frame and body. I have been looking for a body to build another Tee for three years. I like your thinking about keeping the stock frame. That's what make it traditional.The frame on my Tee is made from 4" channel with very little boxing. I do have 4 cross members. I don't have any trouble with frame flex. But a Flathead doesn't make that much power either. Please keep posting pictures. I would like to see how this comes out... Here a little inspiration, a couple of pictures of mine.
Stock Frame will be fine. I had a boxed stocker, and stuffed 500.H.P. with a 4 speed and a 3.73 gear with 8.5 inch slicks. It twisted a bit on hard launches, but that's what made it fun.
Hey guys! Sorry I haven't been on the H.A.M.B lately... I have been thinking a lot about my bucket, and I think I am going with a hopped-up Model T or A 4 banger! I wanted to do the y-block but I would rather keep the original chassis. plus I know it will handle so much better because I am going to drive the crap out of it The problem is that I don't have a 4 banger!!!!... and I don't know where to find one for cheap. I'm picky though... I really want a flathead hehe! I have reasons though! D-lazaris is trying to put together the UFRA and I want to be in it, well I want to race with all the other members! Thanks for the inspiring pics you guys have been sending me! They give me ideas on how I want my car too look!
Mine is an A bucket, I used a TT (model T) truck spring in back. Consider a Banjo, I think they have the best look. Made my body longer and deeper so I sit inside with legroom. Comfortable was major requirement. Can't do too much mock-up, saves back tracking & ruined stuff. Flat V8, don't always have to overhaul, loosen it up & try to start it, they can be really bad & run really good. I still have the stocker in the first photo, runs, for sale cheap. Kids did the brush paint job, they love it.
I think if it were me, (AND THANK GOD YOU ARE NOT!!!) I would reconsider and keep the Y-block. You have it, I think you said it runs, and with the frame boxed and crossmembers welded in it will be more than strong enough to handle the weight and tourque it can produce. Doing this stuff for the first time can be hard enough even with allot of experienced help when a catankerous antique engine is thrown into the mix. Although the Y-Block wouldn't be my first choice, it will be loads easier to get past the "teething" stages than the earlier stuff. Nothing kills enthusiasm faster than internal engine problems and more money to spend right when you think your ready to drive.
Amy I gotta second and third the above. Believe me I've been through this. Remember "T" frames are not rocket science despite what some will tell you. Just get someone that is a good welder and cross measure it and set it on a level cement slap and weld in some gussets. Hell Grabowski bolted in the front X member on the Kookie Kar as did Von Franko on the clone. The Y block is a good engine. Get you a lot of attention. Okay just my 2 cents. Don't get discouraged.
OK... Now I am rethinking the 4 banger... originally I was worried about the Y-block because I though it would be to much work for that small of frame but with what you guys are saying with putting gussets in the frame it's now making me want to keep the Y-block and not think about the 4 banger anymore, but it's now or never... If I want to do the 4 banger then I would need to do that first because it will change where I place the body because it will sit closer or further to the engine on the frame. I would love to put a flathead in it so I can be apart of the UFRA and just simply say I drive one, but I think the Y-block will give me the performance I want.... I don't know where to begin with my frame, how do I gusset the frame? Should I put in cross members? Or what? D_lazaris's dad is a welder so I'm not to worried about the welding part, it's just how to do it right and strong for that big engine is what I'm worried about. So if you guys have any pictures or diagrams on how to do so, I would really appreciate it!!
Not to throw a wrench in the works, but I dig the 4 banger idea, or even a good running stock V8 flatty. That and a banjo rear with the right parts dug up from where ever you can find them and you'd be on your way to having a sweet little T that would be fun to drive without having to go crazy on the frame. But I'm biased and totally ruined by Chris and Hitchhiker's builds... What ever you do, it will be your car and whatever makes you love it is what you should do!
If you want performance the 4 banger is not a good idea, that and parts are harder to find if you break down. You can't just walk into a NAPA for Model A stuff. The frame boxed is plenty strong for me. The tranny cross member and the frame end are all I have and it works. Like I said before there is a little twist on a hard launch when it pulls the front wheels but my set up makes way more power and I have a crazy gear and a 4 speed. At some point I was considering putting in a X memeber to help with this but honestly I like the way the car launches now and I know how to drive it. If you pattern your set up after the frames sold by speedway or total performance you should be fine. If your just planning on driving the car normally with a little horse'n around here and there then all this gusset this and strengthen that stuff isn't necessary. I ould suggest a hoop with a couple down tubes just in case ya ever roll it over. This will also help stiffen things up.
Ok, since you asked about Frame prep I'll give you some opinions. The very first thing I woukld do with it is clamp it down flat and "step box it". Look at any of the frames that So-Cal does to better understand this. Rather than welding the plates to the out side of the flanges, make the boxing plates a little smaller so they sit down into the flanges by about a 1/4" or so. This adds beam strength over the length of the frame, and gives a much better suface to weld to. Also "T" frames were made of a spring type steel so they could flex, so welding to the out side of the flanges almost always ends in cracks down the length of the boxing plate, that won't happen with the step box. the other important thing, and some will disagree with me, but I like to weld ALL of the cross members in on a "T" type chassis. Most build the trans cross member so that it unbolts and drops put for trans removal, but welding it in creates quite a bit more strength to arrest twisting torsionally down the length of the frame and at the side rails too. The usual argument to this is that it's easier to drop the trans out with a removable crossmember, but with "T"s it's just as easy to pull engine and trans to do any work. The benifits of strength far out weigh the convinaince. I always try to incorporate some sort of "K" or "X" type cross member too, but that is kinda hard to package in something as small as a "T". The more stable you can make the frame rails themselves, the better the suspension, brakes, steering, shifting and all the other working circuts of the car are going to perform. I'm sorry I don't know how to do computer drawing or any of that, so I can't do any diagrams for you. If you have any questions though, I'm happy to answer them as any body else would be, I'm sure. It's so nice and rare to see a pretty young lady out really working and proud to be part of her project car! I just put a thread up last week called "The girl and the Falcon" about my girlfriend putting the engine in her wagon her self... She thought I was kidding when I said that was how it was going to go! I've never seen someone so proud of an accomplishment.
First and foremost. It's your car Amy, build it like you want it and have fun with it. I tend to be a bubble off of plumb, but I would love to build a street T, (either a bucket or a high top coupe, sedan or truck) with a Dodge flathead six. Remember it's not necessary to be fast to have fun. If you can be happy with a T or A banger, go for it and enjoy the hell out of it. Get used to running back roads and avoiding freeways and budgeting a little more time to get places and enjoy the drive. That's what we build our cars for, to drive them, not to sit and look at them. It's really about the journey, not the destination. If you aren't having fun doing it you have to ask why, and if you have to ask why, it really can't be explained.
HRA, your singing: "I've got the pink slip daddy", great work on the paper trail. I spent 6 months fighting with DMV to get mine. Plating the frame is the easiest way to "box" one. Note in the image that the plates are sunk in slightly to give a fillet weld that can be ground down without losing strength. However before boxing the frame you have to consider the steering box mount, engine and transmission mounts and where they will be mounted. Since you do not have access to the inside to bolt something on you will have to run a tube through it in order to mount something on the side or top. If you are boxing it, now is the time to weld on radius arm mounts and rear control arm and panhard bar mounts. During and after it has cooled check your frame for straightness in two planes, with x measurements. I am partial to the Y-block, I have a 272 with 2x4's, supercharger cam, high lift rockers and a modified oiling system. Like you I bought mine running and only changed the gaskets. "Stole the image from Rod & Custom"
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