IS THE JUICE WORTH THE SQUEEZE, If you happened to have a few 35-40 chassis, and have some 32 rails would you fit the 35-40 x member, or buy one of them tube x's and be done with it, considering its going rhd and the brake fulcrum will need redoingh the other side. please remind me IF you have a 32 rear crossmember is the spring the same width and depth as a 35-40 IF you have a 36 rear axle and radius rods, does it become simpler to build? is the pinion spline on a 36 axle the one that uses the later banjo axle open drive flange, from what rear end? I gather the bolt spacing on a 36 axle for back plates is the same as 40? IS it possible to fit rear 40 hubs to a 36 axle use the 11'' rear brakes from an f1 and convert to self adjusters by way ove opening tyhe hole in the backplate - fabbracobbling, et all, hub offsets and drum depth. is an f1 rear axle complete at 61 inches wiode too wide for a 32 with 6'' by 16 firestone white wall tyres, relative to say a 47'' wide king pin axle with f1 brakes, is the track difference too much .
@krylon32 are you able to answer any of these questions? Let's start with the later x member with '32 frame rails.
'32 rails and 35-40 X is how I am building my chassis. There are several examples on the forum. You can add a brake pedal cutout on the RH x piece if you don't have a RHD donor chassis. See the P&J website for a pattern. But you would still have to find or fabricate a RHD pedal mount. https://www.peteandjakes.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/10/5010-front.pdf
I had a local shop bend up some sheet metal channels. They were 4' long, 5.75" deep and 2" wide. It was really cheap and easy to fab up a real X member like all the cars in the 50's used. The Early Corvette used similar looking set ups. I did a torsion test on a stock 32 frame It twisted 2 "down from center of the front crossmember. With the new X member, the same load had no measurable deflection.
if you lay a steel rule flat against the front curvw of the frame - on the square part and measure back, is it exactly 15 inches to the middle of the crossmember - or the middle rivet?
frame rails I have have already been boxed - boxed all the way to the front for some strange reason for ifs - right to the frame horn!!! so bending a steel rule on the top of the rail, at the front most edge and back, if you get my aggro - same in the rear I am going to buy a front crossmember then cut the trapesoidal shape from the boxing plate if you like and slide the crossmember in, tap the crossmember and bolt it in pre welding. - mocking up. maybe so it can be disassembled and stored in two. got a look at the plans 14 and 7/16 from the front of the rail back and all that jazz BUT I am thinking it will be a whole lot ewasier using a 2 foot steel ruler and simply measuring the distance from the front horn backwards same in the rear, but need to get the 32 rear x member back - might not happen
I must ask why are there two versions of the model a STYLE 7 DEgree dropped front crossmember one is drilled for rivets one isn't, is it the exact same thing and simply made by two differing vendors?>??
Model A and 1932 Ford Front Crossmember with Rivet Holes Lowered (roadstersupply.com) this one and Lowered 1928 - 1932 Ford Front Crossmember (roadstersupply.com) what is the difference ? I am buying the one predrilled,
Way back in prehistory, I designed, built, and sold composite mono leaf springs. To get the spring rate low and also the stresses, I need to make the springs 3” wide. I have had this one under my roadster for 34 years so it must have worked. I had to make the crossmembers to fit the wide springs. Yes, it is designed with the bend to get it low.
The Jalopy Journal
