I wanted to take a moment and do***ent my engine swap for anyone who may find it informative. This is a '95ish 302 from an F150, and a C5 from an '83 Mercury Cougar into a '52 Ford 2dr Sedan. As I lack many fabrication tools I was looking for a kit that would provide professional results, but not break the bank. However, the kit I came across for my car on another website was outside my budget so I pieced one together from different parts on Speedway. You'll need three parts ordered. Frame Perchs Motor Mounts Cushions When I had ordered my parts I had a $25.00 off coupon "to get back under the hood" which brought my swap kit total to a whopping $60.00. Not too shabby. ENGINE MOUNTS When it came time to swap the engine in it was straightforward. I ***embled the perches, cushions and motor mounts together on the engine and lowered the engine and trans into place. Centered the crankshaft bolt between my frame rails, 16" for me. And then centered the transmission on the cross member. Measured a few more times and then tacked the mounts into place. I first attempted to just use 1/4" flat plate for my motor mounts, but it sat the engine to high, giving an ugly appearance and causing clearance issues with the trans tunnel (not sure how the other kit does it). The mounts from Speedway dropped it down sufficiently, giving plenty of clearance from the cross member and the trans tunnel. On the driver side, pay attention to the oil filter. Both mounting locations on the motor mounts are slotted, allowing you to ensure you have enough clearance for Carquest oil filter p/n: 85215. However, I believe an FL-910S can fit with a bit of relieving on the driver side frame perch. TRANS MOUNT When I crawled under the car to address the transmission mount I noticed the C5 mount would land right where my original cross member existed. My stock cross member had a diagonal bolt pattern, I added two more 7/16 holes and slotted the mount. Then I notched out the center of my cross member to drop it a 1/2", welded it up on my vise, installed it into my car and let it cool. I believe the way I modded my original cross member saved time and resources since I just had to use a death wheel, drill, and welder, no other metal. Now my driveshaft has been measured and sent off to get lengthened. Meanwhile, I will be tackling the exhaust.
NOTE: If you'll be using Hedman Headers 88400, you'll need to do a little metal manipulation with a ball peen hammer to get them to clear the motor mounts. The good news is that all of the beating will be on the back side of the header tube and not noticeable from when bolted on.
I wish I had seen this when I was looking at doing a swap. I also saw your post with the part numbers, which is great reference.
On page #4 of the "FAQ Sticky" you can see the install using the Butch's kit notice the difference in the mounts from Levi's post and this picture showing the p***enger side. With the Butch's kit there is no alteration needed to the headers or the transmission cross member. Also the Butch's kit is 100% bolt in and requires zero welding So is it worth it to save some bucks or save that additional labor and alteration ? The choice is yours.
The Jalopy Journal
