Another 55 Straight Axle Chevy Gasser build.

Looks great. Nothing wrong with a 454 Chevy in my book. Nice job mounting the front springs/mounts. Keep up the good work.

 

Baron,
How much planning is involved with getting the frame rails straight before you weld them in place?

I have seen a few guys do this but no real detail as to how perfect you need to get those rails before you weld them.

I imagine myself in the garage with a series of laser levels and tape rules... driving myself crazy to get it perfect...

Or is perfection not nessesary?

Any tips on lining the rails up?

thanks.

 

Wow, a '55 with a real motor!

 

That's coming out really nice. Look forward to seeing it done. What do you have in mind for a paint job?

 

Nice.......diggin that hemi mill.........best of luck with the rest of the build.

 

John. I welded the subframe together first. Next I put the car on jackstands at a comfortable working height. I leveled the car/ frame rails ,both front to rear and side to side using a couple of 4 ft levels. Measure from a fixed point on the frame or firewall) to get the total length of the frame so once you weld in the subframe,it will be the same length( I actually added 1" to move my cross bar more forward). I made my subframe longer than needed, so I trimmed the rear section so that it would slide into the original frame so that it too sat level(again both frt to rear and side to side) and the proper length. Once I had it located properly, I measured diagonally ( X-pattern) from the end of the subframe to where it attaches to the original frame. This makes sure the frame is pointing straight ahead and square. Then carefully tack the frame in a number of places rechecking for square (and level) as you go along. I welded the top and sides solid, then I pie cut the inner sides of the original frame and folded those out to line up with the subframe.
As far as how critical you have to be, take a few measurements on your original frame. Most likely it is not as square as the new one will be when you are finished. Hope this info is helpful.
Baron

 

Looks a little... ALOT, like this!

Man that thing is awesome so far.

 

How far ahead of the firewall did you cut it?? And what's the inside width of the new crossmember at the front?? how long is it, as well. Thx.

 

Thanks. Right now all is planned is a fresh coat of "Jersey Suede". I am going to paint the underside of the floors in a red oxide(as they came stock) and probably paint the firewall gloss black. This way, once I mount the body back on the chassis, if I ever decide to "do it up", the underside will be finished. I have a couple of cars I already have to keep washed and waxed, so the idea of having a beater really appeals to me(some of my favorite cars have remained in primer. Once I paint them, they are finished,and I tend to get bored )

 

I'll get those measurements for you tomorrow once I go to my shop.

 

You need to pull that ugly green slug out of that nice car
AND ..............Send it to me ,I'll make sure that it's clean and put to good use in my 55 (ha ha ha haaaa)

 

very nice, i dont see too many elephant powered 55 chibbys. looks good

 

Hey brother........thats some very kool sketching..............you certainly have skills!! Great art!!

 

Nice, can't wait to see it run.

 

Thanks for the reply.

When you get back to the shop, can you also measure the distance from the firewall to the ends of the new frame rails?

I am replacing this suicide front end, and I have no point of reference as to how long to make the new rails.
-john

 

Here is where I cut the frame and slid the subframe into. The tubing extends into the frame about 10 inches(so it butts up against the top rail of the original frame). I aligned the tubing with the bottom of the chassis (the frame opening is closer approx 5 inches high) . I pie cut the top of the frame and bent down to rest on top of the subframe(you can see how the top flattened out). I took a hole saw and drilled out the recessed bolt holes that attached the steering box and rosette welded the subframe to the original using these holes. Once I am all done welding, I will fill with Marglass, skim coat with bondo and make it look like it was made this way before it gets a coat of gloss black paint.

Here is a picture of the inner rt front section. Here I pie cut the frame once again to join the original to the subframe.

The subrame is 30 1/2 " inside/34 1/2" outside( and the same width frt to rear.Much easier to work off square) The width of the stock frame where I cut it off at the firewall determined the total width. Depending on what motor ,exhaust, etc you plan on running, you could align the subrame with the inner walls of the original frame, which would narrow the subframe a up to 4 inches. I wanted as much room for the Hemi as possible. One thing you do have to watch for is the width of the axle you plan on running. My axle is 51 inch (king pin to king pin). If it were any narrower, the mounting of the spring pads would have been on the curve of the axle. The way mine is set up, the perches are as wide as possible and line up with the springs which keep the springs directly under the subframe rails. If you plan on running a narrower axle, I would narrow the subframe accordingly.

 

From the center of the bolts that bolt the cowl to the frame, to the very tip of the subframe is 46". I added 1" to an 1 1/4" so the round tube will extend a little (1"-1 1/4")beyond the lower grille splashpan( so it's just peeking out).You can also see in this picture how I have since rounded the end of the rails (still not as round as I want them yet....one more time )

 

Real nice work !

 

dude whats wrong with that frontend????
that thing is cool......

 

Wanna buy it?

 

Thanks for the info Baron.

 

Very well designed and built. Great pics! Unlike customs it only takes a gasser a few seconds to prove it's worth. No opinions necessary!!!

 

maybe... whats the rest of the frame look like????

 

Very good. It is currently holding up this car.

As you can see, the wheelbase is extended a bit.

I have decided to scrap the gasser look and find a stock frame for it.

 

Front end is pretty near finished.I lengthened the rear spring mounts(1.5 inches) , and installed the front shocks. Car needed a little more "nose up" attitude(and a little more caster won't hurt). I also installed a cross-member underneath the motor to tie the frame rails together. Bolted it in so I can remove it if I have to remove the oil pan with-out having to pull the motor. Tomorrow I will finish welding the front shackle mounts to the frame. Wanted to make sure my shackles were in the proper position/angle before I welded them solid.

 

Hey, nice car. I am doing a 55 gasser also, what axle did you use and what steering box set-up are you running.
Thanks

 

Thanks. MAS axle, 51 inches wide/3 inch drop. GM 525 steering box.

 

Great build! One more question on the front end...what springs did you use (length&weight), where you'd get them. Thanks

 

now thats a familier sight hehe



heres another pic of the same car

 

bought the springs from MAS also. They were originally selling springs that were a bit shorter, but now they are selling Speedway Motor's springs with their Front axle package. I think two different rates are available. I opted for the heavier of the two, which have 6 leafs. I think they are 32 inches long, but I would have to measure them to be sure. If you need the exact length, I'll measure them tomorrow when I am back in the shop.
Baron