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Projects Another AV8 build thread...

Discussion in 'Traditional Hot Rods' started by 65stang85, Dec 30, 2020.

  1. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    Hi guys, like many others on here I'm going to start my build thread in hope of not falling to the wayside. I've been a member for quite some time and have bought a handful of parts years ago before the minimum post rule which is part of why I'm starting his thread so I can have the privileges to message and buy parts. Story of the car thus far; my dad bought the car complete in non running order for $800 back in 2005. It sat for a few years before we started on it but we always knew we wanted to do a traditional hot rod build. This is our first build of this sort however we have done complete restorations on a number of 60's Mustangs so we kinda know what we're getting in to. Over the past years we stripped it down and bought parts that aligned with our build plan to include a running 1950 truck flathead and trans crossmember, 1940 ford juice brakes, 1939 ford trans and pedal assembly, 16" wire wheels, 4 inch drop front axle setup from speedway, reversed eye rear spring with top three leafs cut and relocated on the bottom of the pack and "Z'd" the frame in the rear. We are hoping to have it lot driving by spring as to see what kind of shape the driveline is in. The body is pretty roached but repairable, there is some extensive damage to the driver's quarter which I'm not looking forward to working so I'm always on the lookout for another roached quarter panel that has a good body line. We're also in need of an F1 steering box, there is a couple in the classifieds but as stated before I dont have enough posts yet. Anyways I plan on posting work in progress photos through the winter so any words of wisdom along the way would be appreciated.
    FB_IMG_1609201593938.jpg
    The coupe as we bought it
    FB_IMG_1609201733143.jpg Stripped down and frame Z'd
    20201230_151236.jpg Sand blasted and primed
    20201230_151114.jpg New front end set up
    20201230_151204.jpg The damaged quarter panel, you can also see the remnants of what were bullet holes behind the quarter window that had been body worked and painted over, I'd like to know the story behind those...
    20201226_154311.jpg
    Engine and trans ready to be fit
     
    Last edited: Jan 1, 2021
  2. adam401
    Joined: Dec 27, 2007
    Posts: 3,003

    adam401
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks like a good start and sounds like youve got a solid plan. Welcome.
     
  3. flamedabone
    Joined: Aug 3, 2001
    Posts: 5,733

    flamedabone
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Oh baby, that's a nice one.

    -Abone.
     
  4. X38
    Joined: Feb 27, 2005
    Posts: 17,498

    X38
    Member

    Those are '35's;)
    Sounds like good plan. Have fun.
     
  5. GordonC
    Joined: Mar 6, 2006
    Posts: 3,468

    GordonC
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Looks like a good start! Keep er going!
     
  6. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    I've owned the car for 15yrs and have never noticed that!:eek: I had to run out to the shop and check, looks like someone changed them out at some point, all the rest are 17's.
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2020
  7. flatford39
    Joined: Dec 3, 2006
    Posts: 2,799

    flatford39
    Member

    17's are 32...19's are 30 31. 28 29 had 21's
     
  8. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    Dang noobies:p
     
  9. Sandgroper
    Joined: Jan 20, 2019
    Posts: 307

    Sandgroper
    Member

  10. Travis latour
    Joined: Jul 7, 2015
    Posts: 213

    Travis latour
    Member
    from Putnam CT

    looks like a good start you have there. cant wait to see more!
     
  11. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    Good day in the shop, mated the trans to the A's rear end and located and welded in the engine mounts. Next step will be the trans crossmember. 20210101_153408.jpg 20210101_153441.jpg
     
    48fordnut, brEad and kadillackid like this.
  12. Aaron D.
    Joined: Oct 27, 2015
    Posts: 1,038

    Aaron D.
    Member

  13. hotrodjack33
    Joined: Aug 19, 2019
    Posts: 4,844

    hotrodjack33
    ALLIANCE MEMBER

    Even by 2005 standards, you STOLE that A-bone! Looks like a great car to start with...and it's heading in the right direction. Nice job.
     
    lothiandon1940 likes this.
  14. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,610

    31Apickup
    Member

    18” are 32, 17” are 33-34, 16” are 35.


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    slv63, Tony Martino and wheeldog57 like this.
  15. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210102_141415.jpg
    The untouched F1 crossmember
     
  16. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210110_100541.jpg
    We cut about 3/4" out of the middle of crossmember to get the rear of the trans down to clear floors and keep the driveline in the straightest line as possible, carb base was set level as well. This is only tacked up for final fitment at the moment but you can see we tried to make it look as factory as possible by keeping all original radius of bends.
     
  17. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210110_100445.jpg
    After fitting the body to the frame we had clearance issues with the fuel pump and backside of the engine, we only needed about an inch to clear everything but we wanted a little more room for ease of maintenance so we decide to cut out a larger portion and move it back 1 3/4".
     
    AB Normal likes this.
  18. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210110_152912.jpg
    This is where we left off for today, we used a floorboard panel we had laying around for our setback pieces, it's hard to tell in the pic but we bent the original firewall towards the rear and tied it into the radius of the setback piece, our plan is to make it look like it was stamped that way, no welds showing or tight angles.
     
  19. Carl Gibbs
    Joined: Dec 24, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Carl Gibbs

    Awesome car. Looks great. I'm also leaning towards the flathead idea .
     
  20. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    like it... maybe don't listen to those that tell you to build one just like theirs...
    take a step back,
    print pix of cars you and your loved ones like,
    compare the different car's details using the pix, get more pix if needed...
    build the car you like and can afford... drive it till you can't...
    .
    memory says ;
    1928-'29 = 21". wire
    1930-'31 = 19". wire
    1932 = 18". wire
    1933-'34 = 17". wire
    1935 = 16". wire
    1936 - '39 = 16" wide five. steelie.
    1940 = 16"... 4" wide. steelie
    1941 -'48 car and '41 - '50 something... trucks = 16"... 4.5" wide... steelie...
     
    Last edited: Jan 18, 2021
    ABONES and tb33anda3rd like this.
  21. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210117_142244.jpg
    Got the firewall recessed
     
  22. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    20210117_143821.jpg
    Plenty of room now around the backside of the engine. Moving on to the steering next, looking for an F1 box if anyone's got one laying around....
     
    brEad, 48fordnut and akoutlaw like this.
  23. 31Apickup
    Joined: Nov 8, 2005
    Posts: 3,610

    31Apickup
    Member

    There’s a typo, 1936-39 are 16” wide five


    Sent from my iPhone using The H.A.M.B. mobile app
     
    loudbang likes this.
  24. Carl Gibbs
    Joined: Dec 24, 2020
    Posts: 70

    Carl Gibbs

    That looks awesome Great job :D
     
    loudbang likes this.
  25. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,826

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    You seem to be headed down the same path as my coupe except mine is full fendered. I didn't cut the drivers side of the firewall as much because of brake pedal clearance and wanted to run an old spoon gas pedal. I used studs rather than head bolts which was a mistake, can't pull the right head without pulling the engine if I ever need to. Same step in the rear of the frame and an F1 steering box. Modified the steering box with a Model A snout and moved it as close to the frame as possible for clearance. Looks like a good start !

    !cid__Photo03061434.jpg Photo09091340.jpg h1.jpg plugs1.jpg IMG_0869.jpg
     
    Greenblade, 101Scout, brEad and 3 others like this.
  26. 65stang85
    Joined: Dec 12, 2010
    Posts: 66

    65stang85
    Member
    from michigan

    Nice! I didn't think about the brake or gas pedal being an issue, we did notice the head coming off with studs may be an issue.
     
    loudbang likes this.
  27. Model A Gomez
    Joined: Aug 26, 2006
    Posts: 1,826

    Model A Gomez
    Member

    I'm running stock Model A pedals on an adapter and it puts the pedals in the stock position in relation to the steering column. I also left the notch for the steering column.

    20141028_161559.jpg plugs.jpg
     
  28. Nice. I've got a lot of the same parts on my '31 ('52 8BA, '39 toploader etc), but didn't Z the frame and didn't cut the firewall. Took some engineering but it's all in and looks the part.

    Looking forward to seeing how this turns out.
     
    48fordnut and loudbang like this.
  29. Hitchhiker
    Joined: May 1, 2008
    Posts: 8,503

    Hitchhiker
    Member

    They did make 18 inch high clearance wide 5's
     
    loudbang likes this.
  30. sloppy jalopies
    Joined: Jun 29, 2015
    Posts: 5,256

    sloppy jalopies
    Member

    thanks '31 p u, i edited it to 16"...
     
    loudbang likes this.

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