Havent had the time to do much, as i was saying earlier i just finished moving and i have yet to finish bringin all the stuff i had in my garage to my new lotcation, its incredible the amount of stuff you descover when moving???? Anyways, in the last 2 days ive tried to adjust each cable in the same way so that each slide opens simultaneulsley, but one thing is to feel'em w/ your fingers and another is when they all supposedley work togheter, plus the adjuster and locknut sistem makes it a real PIA, as in torque, lock, check, torque lock re-check, torque, lock, re-re-check and so on, a new nighbour of mine said that they sell cable adjusters w/ the lock nut on top that can make this easier, today ill go see. Then yesterdayi took'em apart again, lookin for dirt and unusual stuff, so far ive only done nr 1 and 2, and all seems fine, no dirt, a no worn out parts, except for carb nr one main jet that looked a lil worn on the top, still the hole and surround looked fine, a bit hard to read but looked like 250 as the other one and the 4 spare i have. Tonight as i get home i'll take 3 and 4 apart and see whats up! After all this ive synch-ed them again w/ my home made synch-tool, after re sealing it just to make sure, but still im under the impression of floodin the darn cylinders as the smell of fuel didnt change a bit and performance is still ****! My double barrel 32/36 pulled better! Which is impossible. The biggest issue here is that at the moment this is my only car as my other veichle might have a cracked head or valve, either way it isnt driveable!!!! so everytime i *****er w/ it i also have to make sure that its ready to take me to work the day after.... Tuff Luck!
I sent this as a PM to bonez, but I'll post it here for anyone fooling with Mikuni roundslide VMs To sync the cables for idle and lift, try this. I always used a drill bit under the slides the smooth side, I forget the size, but try one in one of yours and set all four to it, and then listen for when you let go of the cable for that "thwack". If it idles too high do it again with a smaller bit, too low, a larger one. You just lay it under the slide and work the cable set on top to just come into contact with it, and do all four, slide the bit in and out where they all drag the same like a feeler gauge. then you can tune each carbs mixture to the highest vacuum, and set evenly on a manometer, basically a mercury gauge that is connected to the manifold of each carb. The slides and mixture need to be syncronized this way because there is a transfer slot that gets it more agressively on the pilot emulsion, and on the main circuit in the body that is uncovered by the slide. You may have a couple idling more on the pilot which would explain the richness. CV carbs are easier in that they have a throttle blade that you can synchronize with the stop screw, but VM's, you have to get the slides set exactly right as far as hieght and rate of lift for them to work right. As an aside, I have had to modify the cables length at the junction, usually just a ferrule and set screw inside the cable joint housing to get the lift rate correct, you want all four to lift exactly the same from your drill bit tuned idle hieght to WOT. Check for any cable bind, if you have one that is sticking it will stay on the main and flood. You want that solid "thwack" when you let out of it. If you hear a lagger or two it be uneven.
Some good news finally, it feels kinda strange really, as this is not the 1st time i take'em apart, and the feeling that i was so close to some kind of result makes me feel stupid-ish.... Anyway, i suppose tha Bill was right saying that the pilots where plugged or dirty as this time around i also pulled them out and at least 3 outta four where "filled" w/ something that sure wasnt fuel, or at least thats how they appeared.After blowing them and the whole carb and other jets and needles i could already feel a slight change towards a result by mearley runnin the engine on idle and revving it, but until this mornin i had no clue. The car finally takes off like it used to, rear tires spin if i push too much on the pedal, and overall im a happy guy! This is not the end of it by any means, it still flushes fuel, i can hear the noise and still see the fuel gauge goin down too fast, but at least driving is a pleasure again and not a PIA....it also looks, actually smells like there isnt that much unburnt fuel anylonger, as the smell in car and outside is noteably down. I was also thinking, what about the fuel pump...could it be the reason for the flooding????? Also, i compared the mains w/ the spares i have and they are really worn, in the bottom (or top?) where they are stamped w/ their size and also on top where the needle fits in from above. They are 200, i was wrong saing they were 250, the spares are 250, but being so worn on the stamped side i got into thinkin they were 250s too. The pilots are 4.0 or 40, i dont know which is right, i know theres a 4 and a 0 period. So, main jets might only be worn but of the right size, what im thinkin is: if the needle doest plug the main correctly when down on idle it will feed the carb from idle to WOT. instead that from 3/4 throttle to WOT...am i right on this? Well, thats it for today, at least im goin somewhere...or it looks like i am....i really hope the car will keep drivin like this and better instead of goin back to ****e. Thanx everyone, you guys rule! The hamb rules! Peace, Nick.
So,yesterday i opened up the carbs again, this time to balance all 4 slides to open simultaneusly, actually, thats been done already, but so was cleaning..... This time i really went slow and precise , no special skills really, i just handled it w/ enuff patience to build a whole motor. The result now is impressive, w/ the carbs sychronized and all slides balanced it runs like hell! A lot better than yesterday, its incredible what a little diffrence can make, after all they wherent real badly balanced b4.... Anyway, still flushin too much fuel, and consumption is still ****. Anybody can answer my question on the worn mains? or what do you guys suggest now? This is gettin somewhere finally, id love to solve the problem at 100%. Thanx, Nick.
Not too good really, after 2 days i could feel the engine runnin worse, and opened up the carbs again to check the pilots for anymore dirt and to my surprise they were as dirty as 3 days b4????? What the hell is goin on? all fuel lines are new, all filters (outside the tank and after the fuel pump) are new and the tank is also clean, so i doubt very much that the cause is in the fuel system. Anyway, car aint goin real bad but still not as good as just after the first clean and balance. Any suggestion? I dont think its right to open and clean the carbs every 2 days.......
You may have filters that don't catch small enough particles and something is dropping debris somewhere. Look for corrosion in fittings, the seal around the sending unit, filler neck, etc. Install an EFI type filter or find a quality aftermarket filter for the smallest micron screen you can find. As to the main jets, I think they are just way too large. Jet it down about 3 sizes and see where you are at. You won't notice much difference with any less of a change.
I might have found the cause of the dirt, as my picture shows i have 2 kind of fuel lines, a braided one and a non braided. the non braided are the real deal car parts store bought, while the braided, which i tought were good anyway are aftermarket stuff that i got from a old ford parts store. Apparently the rubber in the braided lines gets corroded by fuel....this is unbelievable as theyre sold as fuel lines, but what the hell, cant trust nobody lately.I noticed that yesterday when i pulled the filter just outside the tank to check for dirt, i stuck a screw driver in the rubber line s****ed lightly and the tip of the screwdricer cameout covered in black particles......oh well! Ill change'em today, and im waitin for the jets, i ordered 190/180/170/160 for mains as they were chep, they didnt have any pilots on stock but will try those too. Anybody anyother suggestion?
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