Hi, I have an unusual problem, and am wondering if it might be something one of you could help me with. I have built a 32 ford pickup over the last year and a half and have powered it with a chevy small block and 700R4 transmission. The truck is nearly done, and I've had it out on the road a few times. The problem is made worse from my having a friend in the middle between myself and the guy who built the trans. The trans guy makes a living rebuilding transmissions at a dealership, but he did this as a side job, and for over two months he has ignored my complaints about the trans. I'm not a complete idiot, but from the above you might think otherwise. All appropriate comments are are expected and will be appreciated. The trans has performed correctly to the point where it should shift into 4th gear, but it has never gone into 4th yet. I'm confident that the TV cable has been set properly as I have used a TCI throttle and Trans / Valve bracket and also a TCI Holley geometry corrector bracket at the carb. I'm using a stock GM cable and have adjusted it to full throttle as directed by the service manual. Not that it would have any effect on a 4th gear shift, I have also installed a Rebel Wire TC lockup kit into the system. It is simply a pressure switch installed into the 4th gear servo cover that should relay an electrical current to the torque converter lockup when the servo is under pressure (in 4th gear). The trans has a shift improver kit sold by Shift Technology Products, and this was also installed by the disappeared transmission guy. I have sent a plea for help from these guys, but don't really expect a response. The trans works perfectly with good firm shifts at what feel to be appropriate for a given throttle pressure at the appropriate time. I've been told that sometimes the first shift into 4th gear is hard to achieve, and that running it up high and shifting it manually can help. Not here. I'm located in the thumb of Michigan, and there are good builders in the area, maybe that is where I need to head. I might also just pull this trans and grab another one. I hate the deal where the friend is in the middle here, he is much more important than any transmission. Any information would be greatly appreciated, thanks in advance
Have you read this? http://purplesagetradingpost.com/sumner/techinfo/700R4p1.html I have a Holly 4160 carb. When I set mine up I initally used a Summit bracket for the gas and trans cables (first photo) -- wasn't happy with the measurements and dimensions. So I made my own trans cable bracket from one from a junkyard engine (fourth photo). I initially used a Summit corrector on the carb linkage (second photo) -- again,, dimensions didn't look right, so I figured where the stud should be (third photo) ... this was close to the hole in the carb linkage so I just mounted the stud on the linkage. Last photo is current set-up. Works fine.
OK Fenders, I duplicated the paper template that Purplesage shows on his web page, and as close as I can eyeball, the latest geometry corector bracket that I bought and installed ($40) seems to be right on. 1.100" down and 23 degrees behind the centerline of the throttle shaft. I'm pretty sure that all the geometry is correct. Thanks for your effort and information. I had read some of this information before, but not all, thanks again. Bill
I think the first thing I would double check, if all else seems ok, is the shift linkage. Make sure it's really in D and not 3.
Yes sir, I would agree that the shift linkage must be correct, and it is. Using a proper Locar shifter, and the detents are all correct, double checked. Thanks, Bill
For diagnosing purposes you can disconnect the TV while running it in the air and see if it hits 4th. You'll get early shifts, but it won't hurt the trans and you can eliminate that as an issue. Based on what you've said about operation it sounds like a hydraulic issue, I've seen TV hold them in third, but it could be a sticky valve. Did they crack into your valve body at all? Most moon light rebuilders won't usually bother.
I haven't tryed it with the TV dissconnected, but that sounds like a good idea. Do you know if there is a temp requirement that would hold it back until it comes up to temp? I believe he did have the vlv body opened up to install the shift kit, but I could be wrong, and he ain't talking. Thanks for the input.
I see you are using a TCI bracket -- have you checked that it gives the correct distance from the bracket to the carb stud at WOT? Not all cables are the same, I had to ditch my Summit bracket and fab my own from a junkyard part (photos in my above post). And once you have the correct location for the TV cable bracket, is the cable adjusted correctly? The cable should be tight at WOT and have tension on it at idle. Many sites show how to do the adjustment, this is one http://www.maddogtransmissions.com/v/vspfiles/articles/tv_cables.pdf
No problem. I'd try it at running temp, but truth be told it wont make much of a difference. If the 3-4 shift valve is sticking in the valve body it will cause this problem. I've had it happen before; dirt, burs, improper install, blah blah blah. If you end up dropping the valve body on this guy take a br*** pick and make sure all the shift valves move properly. Just watch for check balls if you do. Plus if the guy was drilling holes for lock ups and not too careful there may be a piece of steel holding that ****er.
Ended up that the valve body was full of oxidation and that caused several of the valves to stick. Got a new valve body cleaned it, transferred springs and balls and now the trans works great. Overdrive makes a big difference when you have 4.10 gears. All is happy in Nutbush!
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